ryan brown

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  • August 20, 2010 at 5:08 am #24054

    The lesonal is a better clear. For just a bumper you could get away with the fast, I would try to paint it when it’s below 75 degrees though.

    You could just go buy a quart of slow hardener :whistle:

    August 18, 2010 at 2:35 pm #24007

    [b]zarbat007 wrote:[/b]
    [quote]So if I want to clear the headlights from my 2002 530i, all I have to do is sand with 800 grit, clean with plastic cleaner, and clear.

    I was thinking about using Nason Glamor clear to do this, it is to mixed with reducer. (3:1:10% I think?).
    Either way wouldn’t the solvent from clear (any clear) react with the plastic lens?
    Reason I ask is because there was this customer who used brake parts cleaner ( :S ) on his headlights and it kinda melted the plastic lens! Wouldn’t the solvents from clear do this?[/quote]

    They will be fine, just sand them and clear them. I couldn’t count how many sets of H/L’s and T/L’s I have cleard. No problem with any of them.

    August 18, 2010 at 4:49 am #23995

    Yes the P400 wet should be enough tooth for the primer to bite into. P400 wet is a little rougher than P400 d/a. The wet sanding just knocks out the hairiness you can get when you prime.

    You don’t have to get super carried away with the wet sanding, just enough to knock off the top. You can even skip this step, it will just make the primer rougher and may need an extra coat. Not all plastics get hairy either. Usually the PP, PO, TPO, EPMD type plastics.

    August 18, 2010 at 1:06 am #23991

    I would P180-P220 them out. Prime, sand with P400 d/a or P800 wet and paint.

    Make sure to use adpro on bare plastic.

    After sanding with P180 or P220 if you want to get the hairness out of the plastic before priming you can wetsand it with some P400 wet.

    August 17, 2010 at 11:53 pm #23986

    BC/CC will be fine on them.

    August 14, 2010 at 9:17 pm #23906

    [b]Red Baron wrote:[/b]
    [quote]The lizards have their place in the market cuz I’m sure not painting any panels or bumpers for $75.[/quote]

    X2 Me neither!

    Welcome Baron!

    August 14, 2010 at 4:21 pm #23896

    Welcome Sime! :welc

    August 13, 2010 at 11:45 pm #23884

    Yes I have used mine at 16 psi with good results.

    Open the material up. Depending on your air supply you may need a few more psi. Also most gun regulators are not that accurate. Unless you have an air cap test gauge you really don’t know what psi your running. I have tested that gun with regulators and to get 10 psi at the cap it went from 13-21 psi with different regulators.

    Adjust the pressure by the results your getting. Open the material up.

    August 13, 2010 at 3:24 pm #23870

    Holy Shit! That is some nice artwork. Good work Jim

    August 13, 2010 at 3:19 pm #23869

    [b]lild wrote:[/b]
    [quote][b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
    [quote][b]Han wrote:[/b]
    [quote]What is a SMART repairer??[/quote]

    [b]S[/b]mall to
    [b]M[/b]edium
    [b]A[/b]rea
    [b]R[/b]epair
    [b]T[/b]echniques/ Technology

    We call them lot lizards here :P[/quote]which is going to be exstink here soon.[/quote]

    Why will they be extinct??

    August 13, 2010 at 4:40 am #23850

    [b]Han wrote:[/b]
    [quote]What is a SMART repairer??[/quote]

    [b]S[/b]mall to
    [b]M[/b]edium
    [b]A[/b]rea
    [b]R[/b]epair
    [b]T[/b]echniques/ Technology

    We call them lot lizards here 😛

    August 13, 2010 at 12:59 am #23833

    :welc

    Is there any way to see your site in English? I don’t know any German. People here cannot see your pics without registering. And registering is hard if we can’t read the launguage. :blush:

    August 12, 2010 at 5:09 pm #23807

    [b]Han wrote:[/b]
    [quote]Dudes, forget the booths, learn to cut and buff. :birth1[/quote]

    Booo! Buffing sucks :rofl

    August 11, 2010 at 3:20 pm #23776

    [b]MoCoke wrote:[/b]
    [quote][b]Han wrote:[/b]
    [quote]Dag, post some pics of the work. Would be cool to see.[/quote]

    Please do! i need to do this too

    Judging by the link on down draft booth design, the one with a completely grated floor seems like it will produce the best finishes and help utilize the greatest square footage of the room? am i wrong? why do some down drafts have such narrow floor exhausts then?[/quote]

    Almost always a single row floor filter will give you greater CFM. Your intake and exhaust fans are the same size. The single row creates more flow around the car as you have to exhaust the same amount of air you bring in the keep the pressure in the cabin even. You may have 10-30 cfm at the ceiling and by the time it gets around the car it’s 50-100 cfm pulling across the panels. The single row also helps from getting dead spots on cars. The downside is that your sprayzone is smaller and you can get dead spots on the sides. This is just kinda one of those things booth companies do to keep cost and electrical costs down and while still giving good airflow. It is also easier on the feet not walking on grates all day.

    A full floor can pull as good, as long as the booth is designed well. There will typically be less CFM pulled across the car so they have to use a bigger fan or pulley. I would personally rather have the full floor grated with a bigger fan on the booth.

    August 8, 2010 at 8:23 pm #23665

    I had some Rolling Rock’s last night here. Good Choice! 😉

    Cool vid Bondo

Viewing 15 posts - 601 through 615 (of 1,102 total)