ryan brown
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I have never done the bleeding part. Just hook it up and spray.
I dont really think collapsing the liner is a good thing. It will restrict paint flow.
Looks good Ding. Nice vids! Now wear a fuking mask 😛
Hell even bondo said to sand a key scratch to metal. :rofl
[b]ding wrote:[/b]
[quote]good info andy[/quote]X2! 😉
[b]jim c wrote:[/b]
[quote]Well I got some more use out of my gun today. Sprayed about a gallon of spi euro clear. I mixed it a little thicker at only 1/2 part reduce and ran the psi at 25. Definitely much better as far as material usage and overspray. Still layed down really good. I guess the universal clear was just to thin for how high I had the pressure. Iwata you have to run at the max for proper atomization. Obviously with this rp you have plenty of room for adjustment.[/quote]Damn this thread has been hijacked to sh!t :huh:
Good to hear it is working out for you Jim!
Looks good Ding!
Primer Iwata LPH440 1.6
Sealer Iwata W-400lv 1.4 or LPH-400 1.4
Basecoat Sata 3000 hvlp 1.4HC and Tekna 1.4
Clearcoat Sata 3000 RP 1.2 or 1.3(depends on weather) and sometimes Iwata W-400lv 1.3Sand and clear them, it will last. I have done it for a few years now with very good luck.
Jay, raw plastic covers need an adhesion promoter and a coat of sealer. Look into the TDS sheets of whatever brand of paint your using and see what they recommend. I don’t use Bulldog so IU can’t give you much advice on it. We stick with one brand and use what that system recommends.
E-coat is an electrostatic epoxy primer that the manufacturer uses on their new parts. Sealer is used over it for better mechanical and chemical adhesion for basecoat. It also provides a bit of a cushion underneath your base to help prevent rock chips.
A properly painted car should not chip very easily at all. I have painted alot of friends and family members cars that I see alot. None of them rock chip easily at all. My Dad’s car was painted 6 years ago and I replaced the hood. After 80,000 miles it might have 2-3 chips in the hood.
I have sprayed both PPG and Sikkens. They both use the same technology. I get a little faster dry times with Sikkens and also better coverage and metallic control. PPG’s is still nice though. There are other brands out there that are true waterbornes also. Most of the others are used mainly in Europe. I don’t know what your talking about by saying alcohol is added to it, it isn’t. There may be trace amounts of it in the reducer but most likely it would be because there are only a select few things that can be added to water to speed it up.
I would be rather hesitant to believe much a PPG rep was telling me about water, they all seem to be spreading mis-information and smearing the other brands. They do it in my area and I have heard about it in many others. They told me I had to clearcoat in between two-tones with Sikkens and this is simply 100% false. In fact Autowave 2-tones alot faster than PPG. PPG is the only brand that came into our shop and talked down about the other brands.
[b]MoCoke wrote:[/b]
[quote]What are the pros and cons or differences and similarities of Medium Solids clear and High Solids? why would i use medium over high solids?Sincerely,
Confused Mo lol[/quote]
High solids will build more milage in fewer coats, has better chemical resistance and generally hold a better gloss due to less chance of solvent entrapment.
Medium solids will spray easier.
Now this is where it gets tricky. Just because a clear says HS doesn’t mean it is a HS clear. There is no generalized amount that makes a clear HS or MS. I can make a MS clear and write high solids european clear all over the can.
HS clears will spray better with compliant(RP) style guns.
I personally like HS clears better.
I dont have to try not sealing e-coat, I have seen first hand what happens. Plus at a Spies Hecker and Sikkens training center they have panels set up that show the difference.
Just because the car hasn’t come back doesn’t mean its not chipping. As I said do what you want, doesn’t bother me.
Do I worry about rock chips?? Fuk yes I do. I don’t want something I painted peppered with chips. Hey no sweat off my balls, do them however you want to.
I wouldn’t set my standards to what the factory does, their first concern is keeping costs down. Most factory paintjobs aren’t exactly what I would call impressive. Plus they only warranty their job for 3-5 tears. Mine has a lifetime warranty.
[b]lild wrote:[/b]
[quote]15 to 20 mins..[/quote]Is 15-20 minutes worth your paintjob not lasting as long as it should? If so then go for it.
[b]lild wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]ding wrote:[/b]
[quote]I wouldnt base over a raw bumper that just had adhesion promoter on it….ever.
why not just base over sanded e-coat also.
show me a tech sheet from a major paint manufacturer that says just to base over adhesion promoter. Bulldog may say it’s ok but bulldog isn’t warrantying my paint either.
At least I know when it’s done the proper way it will never come back to bite me in the ***
:pcorn:[/quote] i thought bulldog has a gaurntee on the lable.
plus i do base over e-coat. it’s primer sand it well and base will stick.
here’s what you ask for.
https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProductCatalog/ViewProduct.aspx?ProductID=beaa9548-e3a5-4232-8422-2ccad827489a
after opeing the link, click on english, then open. after it opens, scroll all the way down. to the chart system.[/quote]I would never base over e-coat without sealer. It’s not that it won’t stick if sanded, but that it will rock chip to hell. Sealer provides a cushion for the rest of the paintjob. I have had to re-repair quite a few jobs from other shops where they have based over e-coat and it chipped badly.