ryan brown
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I don’t know much about AWX. Let us know how you like it once you use it a little bit!
Are you using the 110 or 115 aircap? A 1.2 may be a little to small for solvent. You want the droplet size to be a little bigger especially with metallics. That way it has a little time to do its thing before it dries.
How does it feel when you tack it off?
What brand of paint are you using? Water or solvent? What gun and tip size are you using?
I use Sata digitals so I look at my digi gauge while adjusting the pressure at the wall. The diaphragm regulator on the wall will stay consistent and i know exactly what I have at the gun.
[b]Old DuPont Guy wrote:[/b]
[quote]Thats right,get yourself a good high flow diaphragm regulator and hang it on the wall. All of the instructors I have had in school told us not to have anything on the gun. It should be on the wall.[/quote]Thats the way I do it. Kinda nice not having the extra bulk of a regulator on the bottom of the gun.
It’s hot here now and I start my reduction at 40%. i will up it to 50% if needed. Also if you spray all your covering coats a little wetter it helps. I try to angle my gun towards the area I’m painting to keep the overspray off my blends.
We had alot of color match issues with Cromax Pro. Some of the toners wanted to seed up in hot weather also. If you had to put more base on after your initial 1.5 coats it would die back and pinch bad. Plus Dupont doesn’t have a clear half as nice as Superior 250.
A good trick for Autowave if your having trouble blending silvers and golds is to reapply your wet bed right before your control coat and blend into that. It will make any blend go away.
Personally I like Sikkens better, but you know what they say… opinions are like a$$holes, everyone has one! 😛 It really comes down to what paint line works for YOU!
Sorry I can’t read french! Do they state lacquer thinner or just thinner. Sometimes reducer is called thinner.
http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/common/pdfs/b/product/nsn/Nason/491-16.pdf
That is the tech sheet. It says nothing of reducing it. Make sure to adhere to the induction time. it is important with Duponts epoxies.
If you are dead set on reducing use a high grade urethane reducer. No more than 10%. Personally I wouldn’t reduce.
No you cannot reduce with lacquer thinner. read the tech sheet, it will tell you if you can reduce it, how much and what product to use. If it is anything like the Dupont epoxy it will not need reducer.
Lacquer thinner is only for cleaning guns and reducing lacquer paint. Most lacquer thinners now days aren’t even a good enough grade to reduce lacquer paint with them anymore.
I’m curious also. I have used Autowave and Cromax. I think Autowave blows Cromax out of the water.
That is excellent advice on 3-stages Jayson. :cheers
That should be a sticky!
Ben, the ground/mid mix is just a coat or two in between your ground and mid-coat. Just to help blending. You can’t even tell it has pearl in the white once mixed. It just shades the white more like the final color. Helps with making a smoother transition.
[b]lild wrote:[/b]
[quote]yeah i realize that after the fact. but you don’t want to do that on pearls, works great on primer. but the way i explained it will work on blending colors.[/quote]Why can’t you do it with pearls???
Dammit I knew my side work would bite me in the ass one day
Also I would ditch the Dupont. Out of all the basecoats I’ve used, they seem to be one of the most hit or miss for matching tri-stages. Most of the European lines match better. Most of Duponts seemed to be whiter than the car and always took a little adjusting. Not a big deal if you have a mixing bank in front of you.