ryan brown
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BTW I shot Dupont water for awhile and once we went to Autowave it took me a little bit to get all my little quirks worked out. The 50/50 coat mixed with blender in the end helps with the ones I cant get to go away.
I have been on Autowave for 6 months now.
I’m not Jayson, but…
I am starting with 40% reducer from the get go since the weather warmed up. Me and Jayson both use the 1.4HC sata. Dont know if the HC is much different but I am having very good luck with blending. I tend to get about 15 inches back and use 22-23 psi for my control coat. I move slow. It shouldnt look wet but it the surrounding masking paper should be wet if you put your finger in it.
One thing that might help is make sure your second coat is not super wet. It should be about 50-60%. I try and step my color out some with my second coat and get my blend looking good and the mottle out. That way my control coat is easier.
10 inches sounds like a little tough to blend. I have found water needs more room because of the control coat. The mini jet would help this greatly. I usually just turn the fan in and drop the pressure. If the color was close I could squeeze that blend, but it wouldnt leave any room for error.
Also if I’m trying to keep the spot small I wont put my first coat on as wet. That way I am not having to straighten anything out metallic wise with my second and 3rd coat.
What % are you reducing your color?
Don’t flick your wrist.
You can cut your silver with some of your blender mix and re control coat your blend
I would listen to Jim and make a new one. You already have the mold. It would be easier to fix it now then to deal with it down the road. He knows more about this type of stuff than probably anyone on here.
Most moldings on cars are somewhat pliable so they can lay on the car. Most cars have a slight curve to the panels.
BTW very nice work! Making that mold is pretty cool. Very good attention to detail. 😉
Very nice work as usual Easy!
Thats is very interesting Nick. I am not sure what to think of it really.
I imagine it could come in very handy. Would I want to rely on it for making good color matches? No! Would it be a very helpful tool to keep put back for some situations? Yes!
Have you ever tinted a color for a bumper and thought you had it nailed only to see its off once on the car? I have, and I would think this product would be perfect for those situations. Help bail you out when your in a pickle!
Thanks for posting this Nick!
Yes that would be fine. I wouldn’t get rid of what you have, it’s already there. If you plan on keeping the pipe there for awhile I would use a dielectric union between the copper and iron just to be safe.
I would go with 1/2 or 3/4. With the size of your compressor 1/2 would probably work but 3/4 isn’t much more. The more air you can fit in there the more air storage you will have. Thats why lateral systems work so well. It lets the air cool and adds storage room.
Nexson, copper is a walk in the park. I run all air lines in copper. Cut, clean, flux and solder and your done. Make sure to use schedule K or L. M is a little thin.
If you can solder wires when installing a stereo you can solder copper
I figured you would have taped up the squirters on that one! :rofl
Looks good Ding!
The flex is your call. You never flex base though. It would be a very good idea to activate the basecoat if using Dupont. Use about an ounce of hardener per sprayable quart.
The paste is the part number I listed 2310S and a 3M scotch brite pad. Any paint store should have them.
222S is not a mid coat adhesion promoter. It is a very old product that is meant to be sprayed on a panel to improve adhesion. Mainly blend panels. It helps to fill scratches and gives a better surface for your base to lay on. Some people use it as a crutch product for poor prepping on blend panels. I think it is basically toluene and a couple other chems that will soften the paint a little.
As far as flex, Duponts is just a retarder. It won’t keep the parts flexible for real long. So it’s not needed.
Most other major lines use an elastifier that stays with the paint forever. All the European lines use one. I have seen a Nerf football painted with an elastifier that wouldn’t flake or peel!
It’s your call to use it or not, most don’t though
I am not super familiar with Nason’s part numbers.
222S isn’t an adhesion promoter for plastics, and I wouldn’t use it on them. You will want 2330S. You can get in an aresol to make it easier. The scuffing paste you will want is 2310S. Scuff with gold ar grey pad and this paste. These steps are only if it is raw plastic. If the plastic is painted or primed then you can treat it as a normal panel.
I have never used Nason sealer, so I can’t comment on it. For their clears I liked 465 but I am in a booth. If 496 is their fast one it will work well for what your doing.
Don’t use Nason basecoat. The color match won’t be good and it will be tougher to spray. It mottles easier. At least get chromabase. If you don’t have anything in your area there is a guy who will ship Pro-Spray. I’m sure someone on here knows who he is(I can’t remember) and I have heard good things about Pro-Spray. Supposed to be good and realively cheap.
wrinkled as in it lifted?? Not good if it did
20 minutes flash with fast activator at 85 degrees??? I would think that would be way to long. I would be scared of it lifting.
A different clear may work better and may not. Would be worth trying though. It would be one more thing to eliminate. Hey not every product was made for every person. Got to find what works for YOU! Did you have a problem with craters using PPG?