ryan brown
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Stick with the TDS 😉
You can add 20% 666 to your 245 black colors before reducing it and it will make it act like the other colors.
Yes I have. They are pretty pricey but nice. The swivel is a nice convenience but not a necessity.
It’s the best high flow coupler made. I like Sata nipples/plugs over the prevost ones though.
Start at 40%. On tough colors with mainly DF toner go up to 50% if needed. DF covers very well so it won’t hurt coverage. It makes a world of difference. BMW 354 at 50% is a cake walk.
[quote=”gtome” post=29795]SAGOLA! :evil:[/quote]
Do you have any experience with Autowave and a Sagola? If not try and keep the thread to useful information.
The Tekna is the best gun I have found for Wave. Quick question, how much are you reducing your tough silvers?
[quote=”ding” post=29764]
Nice jobs there I must say. think i’m gonna throw my satas away and order a few iwatas :whistle:[/quote]
I am highly considering banning you for that statement :p
I had to go digging to find some. I don’t remember what i sprayed these with but I am pretty sure it was a 3000 RP
[img]http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq250/ryanbrown999/painted%20cars/IMAG0015.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq250/ryanbrown999/painted%20cars/IMAG0018.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq250/ryanbrown999/TS-PDSG_orange-peel_640_zpsab9f4c13.jpg[/img]
Here is some of the slick work I put out! I think I used PPG on this one :blink:
[quote=”Andy T” post=29740][quote=”ryan999″ post=29697]
Personally my sealer gun of choice is an Iwata Supernova Hybrid with a 1.4 and the gold basecoat aircap.[/quote]I knew I’d get you into those Supernova’s eventually Ryan :lol:[/quote]
It hurt me more than you know to write that Andy!
[quote=”gtome” post=29669]
Ok that makes more sense. And you brought up a good point I hadent thought of. I was wondering what you guys used for sealers. I would hate to throw sealer in my base or clear guns (only ones I have with 1.4 tip). Not much sense in having a gun dedicated for just sealers. So haveing a primer gun with extra nozzels for different materials would be the way to go for sure.[/quote]
Why would you hate to have a dedicated sealer gun? That is the foundation of your paint job. I would say it is just as crucial as base or clear. If your sealer is rough as a cob your base and clear will map it.
Personally my sealer gun of choice is an Iwata Supernova Hybrid with a 1.4 and the gold basecoat aircap.
Ok that makes more sense. And you brought up a good point I hadent thought of. I was wondering what you guys used for sealers. I would hate to throw sealer in my base or clear guns (only ones I have with 1.4 tip). Not much sense in having a gun dedicated for just sealers. So haveing a primer gun with extra nozzels for different materials would be the way to go for sure.[/quote]
Why would you hate to have a dedicated sealer gun? That is the foundation of your paint job. I would say it is just as crucial as base or clear. If your sealer is rough as a cob your base and clear will map it.
Personally my sealer gun of choice is an Iwata Supernova Hybrid with a 1.4 and the gold basecoat aircap.
I think somewhere earlier I stated the Sata was the nicest one I have used. I will state why,
I have used a Devilbiss PRI, Iwata LPH-440, Sagola 3300, Sata KLC, Sata 100B RP, Sata 100B RP, 3M Accuspray, and 2 different Sharpes as primer guns. I have mil tested all of these except the KLC and Sharpes. If I take into the texture, amount of primer sprayed in contrast to the dry film thickness and the speed and ease of use. The Sata wins easily. I have no bone in this fight either.
Now this is for the products I spray so it may differ for you. I have to agree with these guys saying something is the best is ok, but you better have something to back it up.
I do agree with you though, the Sagola is a nice primer gun. They make some well built products.
BMW wants it a certain way for a reason. You seem to know more than I ever care to know about rivets Doright but in car repair it is best not trying to out-engineer the engineers, especially German ones.
Part of why they do it a specific way is for future collisions. It may not be about what is the strongest, it has to do with how the car reacts during another collision. if it is too strong the car will not crumple the same and the timing of the airbag deployment will not be the same. there are also a ton of other factors involved, many way beyond my pay grade.
Following OEM procedures and TDS sheets is a good way to stay out of trouble, deciding to become a bench chemist or a shadetree engineer is a good way to screw something up. Case in point look at autobody forums, ever notice a trend in threads about people having failures and problems. The common theme is they have scabbed paint systems together and play junior chemist, then come crying when everything went south. most of the time it is trying to save a buck, not reading tech sheets or they have decided they know better than anyone else.
Sorry for the rant, I am not trying to offend anyone, just talking out loud.
A couple tips on tinting, try to avoid killing colors if possible, it causes mud. Its almost always easier to remix and leave some of the color that is troublesome out of the mix. Make a sprayout and add some back in as/if needed.
If you are swapping a smaller metallic for a larger one do not add the same amount in. Smaller metallics cover better and will need less in the formula. Start with half, make a sprayout and add as needed. There will be a color shift when different size metallics are added so it won’t always be an easy switch. The smaller flake will lighten side-tone, and make the color dirtier.