ryan brown
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The only thing you need for a 1.4 is just the nozzle. they are only about $90. I would definately try one before you buy just to be safe.
To be honest just stick with the Sata if you like the results. Some guns just fit a certain paint or someones spraying style better. I wouldn’t fight it just go with what works.
I love Spies. Had great results with it. The colormatch has gone down a little since Herbert’s sold it to Dupont. I always had better luck with 8035 reducing it a little under 10% and 2 coating it. Don’t let it get hand slick either, just give it a few minutes flash. Don’t go too slow or too fast with the hardener either. I would use 3315 all year except for when it got over 75-78 degrees or when the humidity got higher above 72 degrees. I found a Sata RP 1.2 gave me the best results with their clear and the Iwata W-400lv 1.3 right behind it. The LPH struggled.
you probably will not like the silver cap for base. Are you spraying the basecoat very wet? It doesn’t like to be sprayed dry. My first coat was about 80% wet. second coat about 75% wet. And third coat about 40-60% wet. Also may want to try a 1.4 nozzle with your LVX. That might help with blending.
Also tack your blend area between coats and it will help your blend.
8035 likes airflow, but I thought 8180 would die back a little in my booth.
Thanks for your help Rods, Stone and Jim C!
What do you need a block for???
I have Durablocks, a Hutchins speed file, and pieces of balsa wood. Honestly I use a wooden paint stick more than anything.
[b]Rods and Racing wrote:[/b]
[quote]Like you Ryan, I wish they would bring that gun over here otherwise I reckon we’ll go Sata…and where’s that Englishman Andy? Pack your case full of GTi Pros and bring ’em over![/quote]I wouldn’t count on Andy coming over with a case of GTI Pro’s anytime soon. I think he sleeps with an Iwata next to him at night. Hell as many cars as he paints in a day that thing may be attached to his arm at this point. 😛
What aircap are you using on your GTI Pro’s?
I like the CVI for Cromax Pro a lot other than that I don’t like it for much else
I have shot alot of Spies and Standox and have both an Iwata and Sata.. To be honest and this might not be what you want to hear but the Sata works better for Spies solvent base. One thing that has helped me with spraying base with the LVX aircap is to narrow the fan some. It will help get rid of some of that dryness on your blend that your seeing with the sungun. Also lowering my air pressure on the blend would help.
One thing I always did with Spies solvent was to spray my blend first and work my way in. Seems to work good with the Iwata like that. Still the Sata seems to work easier for metallics.
What clear are you spraying? I never liked the LPH for the Spies clears. Little to high solids for the LPH to handle. The W-400lv or a Sata RP 1.2 seemed to work alot better. I always liked 8035 the best. 8180 was nice for a job you needed to dry up pretty quick. 8600 is also very nice but really thick. 8600 is not a beginners clear.
Have you ever tried using over-reduced clear for your wet bed?
The Gti Pro is about the same thing as the Tekna. There is a little bit of difference in the baffle. Also the Gti Pro uses 1 needle for a 1.2-1.4 and the Tekna uses three different needles.
Another difference is the aircaps. The Tekna has 2 hvlp’s and a compliant. The Gti Pro has 1 hvlp and 2 compliants. The best atomizing Gti Pro aircap (T2) and the best atomizing Tekna aircap (7E7) are the same. But the others are different.
Both guns share the same design and internals, but I have heard the Gti Pro does sprays a little better. To be honest I wish they would just bring that gun over and ditch the whole Tekna thing. The Gti Pro looks better.
[b]bondomerchant wrote:[/b]
[quote]i think this is what your looking for 😉
[IMG]http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s151/jackcarlson1965/can_goldchrome.jpg[/IMG]
:lol1 :lol1 :lol1[/quote]Thanks peckerhead!
I’m Spies no more! I spray Sikkens Autowave now. You have anymore info on the velvet silver?
I need help finding the color for them. I know how to paint them.
The color has a different look to it and I’m not sure if there is a color available or they have to be powdercoated. I was asking because maybe someone else has had to paint a wheel this color before.
:welc
Little different atmosphere over here, you will like it.
Always follow the 100 grit rule. Don’t jump more than 100 grits at a time. You can get by with 200 grit jumps after P600.
It would be hard to get out P180 scratches with P400. Also go buy some 3M guide coat. It will help you with seeing any remaining sand scratches you haven’t removed.
:welc
There isn’t a PVC that is OSHA approved for airlines. Will it work? If OSHA came in and knew what to look for they could have an issue.
A place I worked years ago the owner ran PVC trying to save a buck. He used shedule 80 and in a year it already went bad. I was painting a car and the main airline in the shop shattered. Luckily nobody got hurt but there was plastic pieces everywhere.
I have heard of people doing it with no problems, but I never would. Ding has the right idea of the 1 1/2 pipe for air srorage and cooling.
Good point :blink: