ryan brown
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
Sata RP does a very good job also.
W-400lv hands down. Uses less paint and leaves a better finish. If you have to spray a true High Solids clear the LPH really struggles. With a MS clear the LPH does a good job but I think the W-400 has the edge.
I have both guns and I never reach for the LPH for clear.
The GTI Pro gave you away! You can’t get them in the US or Canada. The Tekna is based off the GTI Pro though.
If you were going with Iwata I would get the new WS-400. It will be far superior to the W-400 you have available over there. Maybe Andy will chime in but he just got the WS-400 and seems to love it. For anybody in the US the W-400 you buy over here is a LV model with the wedge cuts in the nozzle. Everywhere else it isn’t. They still sell the older conventional model. I have both and the LV works much better.
If it was me I would use the Sata as a basecoat gun and get the Iwata or a Sata RP as a clear gun. They will both lay clear out very smooth.
I’m guessing you are from the UK or Australia? The Tekna and GTI Pro are the same. Any of them would be a good choice. What product are you spraying?
Might want a D/A.
What do you plan on plumbing your airlines with? Do you have a plan on how to run them?
At least it’s shiny! 😉
It may not cost as much as you think. Get a few quotes first. If you can spend a couple grand at a good frame shop it may be money well spent. Never know you might find someone who is willing to work with you. Around here there are a few guys who do nothing but frmae work and their prices aren’t bad. Frame work is hard to do without the proper equipment.
The car you fixed looks good.
You picked a hell of a job to learn on. It’s probably going to need to go on a frame rack with the motor and subframe out. Getting it to the frame shop with the sub-frame out might be difficult. If it was at our shop we would drop it out and do the frame repairs. Do our painting and put the motor back in.
It might be wise to sublet that part of the repair out. Without a frame rack, a way to measure, the measurements, and some experience I wouldn’r recommend doing it yourself. You need to get the structural part right to be safe
:S Forgot he only does small things. Either way it is a very good all around gun.
Looks good Bloverby
You probably won’t find much Debeer where your at. It isn’t easy to find in the US and Canada. If you did it wouldn’t be cheap. It’s sold as a premium brand here. You will be fine with Dupont.
I don’t think I would use R-M in a Dupont clear. The 12375S should work good. Especially if your air drying it. It is a little bit of a slower clear but looks and buffs very nice. I wouldn’t rule out the Napa 710 and 720 clears either. Very nice for the money. Just depends on which jobber you have in your area and who you like dealing with.
I don’t think the LPH does a great job with HS clears. I think the W-400 does a much better job. not all clears they call high solids really are. PPG has a clear that is considered HS and is 40% solids. The LPH does a good job with these. I can spray them around 20 psi and get good results.
With a HS like Spies 8035, 8600, or Sikkens Superior 250 I don’t think the LPH does that well. The W-400 or a Sata RP do better with these.
Nice gun. Hell if Bondo can get a good paint job out of it anybody can! :rofl
Well I have been playing with an Iwata Eclipse, but I can’t really give much advice because I’m not really that good. Jim is way more qualified than me to give advice. I have just been playing with some black base trying things like Jim mentioned. I am slowly getting better. I think it is one of those things where the more you practice the better you get.