ryan brown
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Damn Andy, I can’t say I am jealous of you. Nice job!
Well thats kinda how it goes with second tier companies making basecoat. They simply cannot afford or have the resources for color match that the large companies have. The larger companies probably spend more a year on color match than the smaller ones make overall.
Hopefully you’ll find something that works for ya!
Nice looking work. Do you always fully paper under the hood or just dirty work trucks?
9 to 12 sq feet is what is stated on the TDS. About the size of a hood. Temps can affect this. Use it as long as it is wetting the area enough to keep the film wet for 1 minute. if the wipe is too dry to do that you need a new one
You don’t want to basecoat directly on top of it, it needs a primer or sealer. You really don’t want to base over any etch.
It really doesn’t matter. Oxsol and acetone are put in during manufacturing. If you’re in canada just use the clears approved for your area.
I like Fusor products, they are used at the OEM level quite a bit.
420g/lt is 3.5 VOC. The regs are different in europe. they have a 3.5 limit with no exempts. The low voc clears in North America and Canada have to be 2.1 or under which is 250 g/lt.
In NA and Canada Oxsol(Parachlorobenzotrifluoride) and Acetone are exempt where EU they are not.
[quote=”ding” post=29372][quote=”lild” post=29371][quote=”ScottB” post=29360][quote=”lild” post=29356]We don’t use 9700 black any more, & I don’t add any thing in the tri coats other then reducer.
I will tell u that the tri’s that use the prlx pearls will take 4 coats of mid.[/quote]
Why don’t you use BC activator in PPG tricoats?[/quote]
Because its not required its an option. Plus your puting base coat on top of base coat, the mid uses the same binder as the ground coat. I never had a problem with the tri coats. But now i said that…….. 😆 :lol:[/quote]Tech sheet says required on all tricoats (in the ground and mid coat.) 😛
Its required due to the increased film build. makes it a stronger more stable due to it being crosslinked as opposed to a thick layer of uncatylised paint ;)[/quote]Jeez, not this shit again! :p
Do you shake your primer after mixing or just stir it?
[quote=”smooth” post=29157][quote=”Jayson M” post=29153][quote=”Ben” post=29151]
I do not know of any paint company that would warranty them either, but every paint rep I’ve met I unofficially said that using it on very small burn throughs, within reason, is perfectly acceptable…even under waterborne.[/quote]
Maybe other paint comanies are different but when I took the sikkens WB certification course 4 years ago they specifically said “do not use autowave over any spray bomb etch (spray bomb or from a gun) or spraybomb filler primer.If you put sealer over top of the bomb stuff you would be ok but it kind of defeats the purpose.[/quote]
PPG say to not use it their water either but my Rep did admit it would be fine to hit the cut thrus before water if your not using a sealer.[/quote]
Not a good idea, even on small spots. You would be better keeping a small amount of over reduced epoxy around for small spots.
a good rule of thumb is to mix your sealer one step slower than your topcoat. Slow it down and spray like clear
You should try to keep your filler off of paint. It can swell and bite you in the ass once the car is painted.
Iwata and sata both have them for pressure pots. Not sure they will work on standard gravity feed guns.
I have never used that clear and I don’t know what thinners your using in it either so here are some general notes.
It appears to be a faster clearcoat. With faster clears you want to minimize flash time between coats and also before bake. The longer they sit the more they die back.
Also faster clears tend to fingernail mark for a bit longer than slow clears. They are fast on the front end but cure slow where a slow clear will take a longer time to bake but will get harder quicker. The next day faster clears will mark easier.
Usually when you use a faster product you will give up some appearance also.
Again these are general guidelines as I am unfamiliar with the product your using. It may behave completely different.
A couple things,
How fast of a clear are you spraying? Is it a slow clear or a fast clear?
How long does the TDS say to bake and how long are you baking for? Remember almost all TDS states a drying time at metal temp.