ryan brown
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[b]zarbat007 wrote:[/b]
[quote]
Hopefuly Glasurit is as user friendly as R-M, its not finicky as Sikkens is it?
R-M sure has nice coverage and excellent color match.[/quote]I have never sprayed 90 line or Onyx but have sprayed a little Sikkens Autowave. Autowave isn’t finicky at all. What I sprayed I loved. Very easy and looked great. If all you have sprayed of Sikkens is their solvent I can see where it was finicky compared to BASF. In solvent Glasurit is nicer to spray than Sikkens, but Sikkens has the edge when it comes to coverage.
From the feedback I have heard Sikkens is in the top two or three waterborne basecoats out.
[b]Doright wrote:[/b]
[quote]From what I understand my state is going to be doing same requirment but not yet.[/quote]It pertains to everyone in the US. It isn’t a state thing.
[b]Jayson M wrote:[/b]
[quote]Can someone explain to me why Iwata can’t make one air cap that can spray everything well? Sata and devilbiss can spray base clear or candies etc with one air cap,for what you pay for an Iwata(same or more than a sata in my area)then you have to buy 2 more air caps,it sounds like a marketing scam.I did try an iwata lph 400lv and I did not like it,to be fair I didn’t try the w-400,I’m sure it would fit my style better.[/quote]I hear ya! Since your an RP guy, you would like the W-400 alot more than the LPH. To be honest the only thing I like the LPH better for is solvent basecoat.
Thats a nice gun. It will spray everything well. Basecoat great.
I don’t think there is anything a a gun good for everything. I have alot of guns and there isn’t one I would pick for everything. It really depends on what brand, water or solvent, air supply, and mainly the user. People get good results with every brand. You just have to find one that fits your spraying style. With that said the Iwata is a very nice gun. You can’t go wrong with an Iwata or a Sata.
I think Hot Climate.
No recommendation is set in stone. On your chart you have Dupont as a 1.3. I have used from a 1.2-1.4 successfully. With waterborne it has everything to do with temp, humidity, and airflow. Still I think going from a 1.5 to a 1.3 is too big a jump.
If you want the gun just use a different brand of base. Most of the majors have a nice waterborne. It’s all a matter of making it work for you.
I would stick with what R-M recommends for nozzle size. If they recommend a 1.5 you might be able to get away with a 1.3 if it’s a really humid day. If you go to small you will have a problem with grainy edges around your blends. If it was a 1.4HC I would be all over it because that would probably work well.
I have never sprayed Onyx so a 1.3 may work well, but I spray waterborne and usually their recommended tip sizes are what you need. 1.5 to a 1.3 is a big jump, especially if you have a hot dry day! :S
I have already been certified. You are sort of right on what it is. The main points of it are you have to use filters that are 97% or so (can’t remember the exact number) transfer efficient. You can’t spray thinners out of your gun to cleans. Your paint gun just has to be approved to be 65% transfer efficient. You don’t just have to use HVLP. Everything has to be sprayed in a controlled environment. Prep station or booth. No open floor priming. I would never do that anyway! 😛
Overall the class is pretty much worthless but you have to take it every 5 years, or if you switch jobs within the first 180 days. It’s a money scam. I-CAR is going to be putting on the class for a $100 fee. If you don’t want to go that route most jobbers will be holding classes also. Our jobber had Iwata come in and teach the class free of charge to us. I would imagine that once everyone is certified it will be on you to do it again after 5 years.
I think this class could be a good thing, but they are more worried about making money and the environment than they are worker saftey and such.
We have a company haul ours away. They will come by once every 3 months if needed. I think it’s like $85 for solvent and $75 for water. There is no maximum amount, they will take any amount for the same price. You should really have it hauled away properly by a company. You don’t want solvent in the ground, and if the EPA ever came to your door, they would want paperwork showing how you dispose of waste.
For anything you mix that is hardened just keep and empty gallon an and pour all left over primers, sealers, and clears in there. Once it hardens toss in the trash.
[b]MoCoke wrote:[/b]
[quote]every time i buy an expensive paint gun it turns out to be really crappy, the last one i bought was a devilbiss which sucked completely, and before that a Sharpe. Heres my guilty confession: i spray with ATD guns now. yea theyre cheap but i have no problem with them mottling paint or zebra stripes or whatever. the pattern isnt that small or large, i mostly do overall paint jobs. the only issue i have with them is the lids, which is easily avoided if u convert them to a pps system. Personally i think you can shoot the best looking paint with the cheapest gun if your technique is right and the air supply is plenty.[/quote]Sounds odd! Do you have enough air? I’m not a huge Devilbiss fan but a lot of people love them and get great results. Do you use high flow fittings? Sometimes the best gun won’t spray well if it can’t get the air supply it needs. Just a thought!
I use the Farecla Total compound and love it. I finish off with 3M swirl remover and then Ultrafina. Works very good.
I want one! How do you like this system Nick? Here is what we use at my work.
Yours looks quite a bit nicer!
Nice looking work! Looks very tedious.
[b]bondomerchant wrote:[/b]
[quote]course ya could just box em up an send em ta ding ta shoot they will come back with lotsa texture :rofl :rofl :rofl[/quote]:rofl Too bad car has to go today!
It’s a finer texture. I will have to look into that Jimmo, thanks! I thought about adding in a little matting agent to just dull them a little like textured ones. Kinda what Bondo was getting at. Also thought about not reducing my sealer and putting on a little drier coat? :S
We tried it out at our shop Jimmo and eventually said the heck with it. Kinda pricey and a couple times it didn’t mix thoroughly and had uncured mud underneath cured mud. Could have been something we did, not sure.
A couple of times I used it the tip would harden up before I got done with all my spots. Not a big deal but those tips can get pricey.
Our guys don’t waste very much so it’s cheaper to just stick with the gallon.