ryan brown
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Dupont use to use those metal caps and I had that problem a few times. The store should exchange it for you.
Those clears you use are pretty nice. Bondo turned me onto the 15420 (don’t know the acme #) and it holds up good. Put it on my wifes car.
One thing to watch out for with Transtar is UV inhibitors. They are usually light on them. I would stick with a major labels economy line. Or give SPI a try. I have never used them but alot of people seem to be happy with them.
[b]bondomerchant wrote:[/b]
[quote]nice looking patch bloverby[/quote]x2 😉
Car should look good when your done!
[b]pnlbtr4life wrote:[/b]
[quote]That car looks familiar to me, i probably did it. Thats why i dont post pics because im the king hacker around these parts.[/quote]At first I thought it was one of my old jobs also, but then I realized I don’t use body tape that nice. No way my repair would of made it to Washington! 😛
Working on some real gems there eh!
[b]jimmo wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]ding wrote:[/b]
[quote]we gotta talk about this jimmo and bondo doing quality work thing though :rofl dont want to give them a big head ;)[/quote] :lol1 :lol1 :lol1 :lol1Welcome Philll, glad to see you signed up. If your letting the SS dry, rescuffing/sanding and clearing I can’t see why you’d have any problems. If your doing it wet on wet just make sure you use compatable products. I’ve heard if it the clear uses the same hardener as your SS it should be fine and would think that to be true, but I don’t know for sure. I use the BASF SS and clear which specifies what clears you can use wet over the BASF SS , making it pretty foolproof. I’ve done it with UNO singlestage and I beleive it was DC92 and also maybe DC5300 clear in the past and never had anything come back on it. I’ve heard guys say that if you use a clear wet on wet that is incompatible it will start to delaminate in a few months.[/quote]
x2! I have done it with alot of success but I have always stayed within the same system.
Man you do sound like a hick! Where are you from? Kentucky!
Oops nevermind, I have the same one :rofl
Looks good! :cheers
[b]Andy T wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]zarbat007 wrote:[/b]
[quote]So, it is necessary to use “waterborne blender” when blending panels with waterborne BC?[/quote]I’m guessing it depends on the type of base, as I’ve never found it a necessity with the brands I’ve used. It can help with some of those troublesome silvers if I lay down a bed of it first for the flakes to land on, but I generally get away without it.
As I say though, I’ve not used this particular brand of base, so it may be a very different story :)[/quote]
Not necessary but it helps you keep from getting a grainy look on your blend area.
Double post
Don’t tell Hub on me Andy
ya helpers still haven’t learned to pull a car in straight or even yet! :unsure: [img]http://www.refinishnetwork.com/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/images/21985_09.jpg[/img]
I just have a heck of an overlap. Probably around 80%. Helps get really even coverage. I have always sprayed with alot of overlap so it is easier for me.
Thanks!
Waterborne blender. A mixture of 2090 and 20% 2040. Numbers won’t mean much if you don’t spray Cromax.
I had to break out the RP just for Bondo! 😉 My Iwata is probably mad at me now :blush:
Yes but use heat. A heat gun works better. Don’t get super close, just blow across the panel. The heat will pull the moisture out quicker. I use a heat gun at work all the time when jambing stuff out in the shop.
I have noticed that Volvos have some of the toughest e-coat on them. When we get a new part a p320 d/a disc has a hard time putting a scratch in them. Nothing as fun as stripping parts, bet that was a good time Nick!
That’s a neat trick! I’ll have to remember that one.
I’m with you on the tools being hit or miss.
