ryan brown
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I don’t think your to far off. I would seal the whole outside being that it is yellow. Another color maybe not, but I wouldn’t take a chance.
I would probably take my front end, doors and trunk off for jamb first. While I had the parts off I would fix the dents and scratches, prime the outside, flip over and jamb.
On the engine bay I wouldn’t prime, I would get the part where it was burned down to bare metal, sand as much of the rest of the engine bay as I could then wet scuff it with a red scothbrite and a product like scuff-it. That way it would help clean while abrading. Once all dry I would use a metal conditioner on the burned spots and just seal the whole engine bay and paint it. Why sand it twice?
3M makes a two-part product in there Automix line that is used on SMC. You can go straight over SMC with no problems. Used it for years.
I started off with Standox. It’s very similar to Spies which I am familiar with. Which products are you using?
There base likes to be sprayed wetter than you would PPG.
Are you using Colornet software? Do you have an AquireX?
Isn’t that the way it always works! I always kick myself in the rear every time I take on a job like that.
Looks good! You use AC3 or HS+ on that one?
A 1.4 is a little big for 72500. It will work fine but you need to bump your pressure up as everyone else said. I am more along the line with Jimmo, I would try around 23-25 psi. Also try dialing your material a little, maybe 3 to 3.5 turns out from closed.
I couldn’t comment on DC92. The only experience I have with that clear was a demo I did years ago. The only thing I remember was a car with runs!Good to hear Zarbat!
Han, I am not for sure if anyone ever reaches what your looking for. There are times when I walk in the booth and nothing seems to spray right. To many variables!
I sold my NR2000 because the pattern sort of collapsed a little and stopped spraying like it did. I cleaned it numerous times and even rebuilt it and nothing. The guy I sold it to put a nozzle set in it and the pattern opened back up. I guess over time they get worn and need to be replaced. You will like the W400. All you have to switch is needle, nozzle, and aircap. Gun body and everything else is the same.
I agree and disagree with you BK. I think the silver cap sprays metallics fine. You have to look at the collision side of it though. I never do all overs, everything is repair or replace then a blend. With so many variables when it comes to color variances I am never blending a panel paintable match. It is easier to blend a metallic when you have a little coarser spray. With the silver cap once you get your pressure down far enough to have a coarse spray your pattern is uneven. That leads to mottling.
See where I’m going with this? If I had an all over to paint I would use the silver cap, as it does the best job of laying the base flat, just not blending.
With waterborne the silver does a poor job with color match, you almost have to have the orange.
BTW, this is my personal experience only, I know of people that do fine with the silver on everything. I can’t. It may be my style of spraying or that I’m colorblind and can’t pick the right variances :laugh:
I would go with the silver or purple. The orange seems a little heavier in the middle and I wouldn’t want that for a candy.
Everytime I have sprayed a candy it was always the kind that was like a tinted clear and got catalyzed. I have never used the candy basecoat.
That would be it.
[url]http://www.anest-iwata.co.uk/objects/altre/w400wbx_uk.pdf[/url]Looks good! I bet that color covered well in Chromabase!:angry:
What type of gun do you shoot with Han?
Nick, something you may want to look into is an Iwata WBX. In the states Iwata sells an orange cap called the LVX and it is for basecoats. It comes on the LPH-400 which is hvlp. In the UK the sell the WBX which is a W-400lv with a gold cap for basecoat. I have heard through the grapevine that the orange aircap and the gold are one in the same. After hearing this I put my orange cap on my W-400lv and used it for waterborne basecoat and loved it. The metallic control is great and it wets up the panel alot nicer than the LPH. I think compliant guns work better than hvlp for waterborne basecoat in my experience.
I have also used the SATA wsb and I thought the Iwata had the edge. It uses a lower pressure so it was easier to keep my overspray down and control the color.
Something to think about! Either way I don’t think you could go wrong with either gun as both are very nice.
Zarbat, I love the orange cap for basecoat. When we sprayed solvent it is all I would use for metallics and pearls. I used between 16 to 19 psi with the fan turned in a little. Keep your distance a little farther back than you would with the LV4.
Yes I have the silver, orange and purple aircap for my LPH400. I even have the blue aircap for my W400:)
I own a couple RP guns. I have a 2000 and a 3000. I think the RP works better for clear. As far as what tip size it varies with me. We use a couple different clears so I have a couple different tip sizes I use. For Spies Hecker 8600 I use a 1.2. Actually the RP with a 1.2 is the only thing I can get that clear to spray with. All other clears I use a 1.3.
For basecoat I have used the HVLP model(green star) and it works pretty good. Not better than my Iwata or my Tekna.
What are you wanting to spray with the gun? Base or clear?
Have you tried the GTI Pro with the T2 aircap for clear? That setup is supposed to be close to a RP.