ryan brown
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I am the culprit who has used it. Get some indoor/outdoor from a home store. It will last a couple years. vacuum daily and it works very well. Runs about $125 total.
wipe down with solvent cleaner then waterborne. blow tack and use these last
http://www.autorefinishdevilbiss.com/Division/DeVilbiss/DeVilbissClean/DeVilbissDeWipeOuts.aspx
Or do the same steps but put some PPG DX103 in a spraygun and mist some on the panels your painting.
I like the wipes better simply because they will help clean, you can never have a car clean enough
A couple things i have used with great success are the following.
If using foam tape I like the newer 3M blue and white. If I am painting a quarter I will put the adhesive side of the foam on the rear door. When I shut the door there will be some foam in the gap you have to push back to make it flush. Leave it sticking out some. Once the car is sealed use a spreader to push the foam back some so the base will cover your sealer. Works very well like this.
If using folded tape like the ez edger, once the jamb is taped put a piece of fine line 1/8 of an inch past where the tape edge is and leave some of the fine line on the outside of the panel so it can be peeled off after sealer. Now your base will cover the sealer and the line from the fine line will be easily covered.
With all that said if you are doing a car like some Mercedes out there where the jamb is very flat and there are no easy ares to tape, try and avoid sealer there and use the folded tape real close to the edge.
What kind of base? What brand of sealer? Is the epoxy sticking good?
the biggest place i see it is the paint surrounding the filler work. If the filler is blocked in P180 and the scratches get out into the surrounding paint, you have to remove them and finish in P240-P320. You can’t prime over P180 grit in paint. Every substrate has a different level of hardness, thats why you can finish metal in P120. It doesn’t dig in as deep.
Also no filler over paint, shake primers after mixing if possible, let flash well between coats, don’t overload it on and don’t hog on the first coat over the featheredged paint just in case it is sensitive.
Shrinking is operator error unless you use a real talc heavy primer that is junk.
to steal a line from Red Baron “Primer cannot shrink into a scratch that is not there” finish off each substrate in the proper grits and you will be fine.
What ding said. Another problem is going to be the clear basecoat (which is essentially just basecoat) being exposed to moisture at the edge. It will eventually seep underneath and will peel back. you have to have clear going past the basecoat. The UV rays will damage it also as Ding said.
For spot repairs use a gold scuff pad or P3000 on a d/a. Go well beyond where you think you will have paint. Still try and keep the repair as small as possible. it is always easier to give yourself more room than not enough. That way if your first melt-in doesn’t turn out the way you want you can just take it a bit further. If it does turn out nice just let it dry and give the P3000 scratches a quick polish.
Nason can be some pretty thin stuff. if you go too small mil thickness becomes a concern.
Is the 1.3 too fast?
I have, what do you want to know?
I think it is slow, but that is determined by the clear I spray. What products are you using,clears specifically? That might help us out.
No, the air passages internally are different. It would be nice wouldn’t it!
Well Jimmo I used it for a year, that was a few years ago so I will tell you everything I can remember.
Not all colors will cover in 1.5 coats unless it is sealed with the appropriate Valueshade color under it. There was no valueshade primer that was worth a shit so I had to seal everything. This was not so much of a deal to me as I don’t mind sealing jobs.
Depending on climate conditions I went from a 1.2 to a 1.4. I had too. If it was a bit more humid out it would run before I got coverage. By going to a 1.2 I was able to keep it from over-wetting as easy. On hot dry days it needed a 1.4 to be able to wet the panel well enough.
I never had issues with motteling or blending for that matter to be honest.
Shelf life of certain toners plain suck. If they get cold (not freezing) they will seed. If they get hot they will seed. I had numerous black toners, 06 I think, get really seedy. I had to trash quite a few zyrillac toners for seeding. I would always strain before putting in my PPS cup. If the base had a harder time going through the strainer I knew my panel was going to be seedy. The machine was in our shop for a year so it wasn’t like the toners sat there too long.
Variants hardly ever matched what I sprayed
Color match sucked for me. Not all colors were bad. Throughout a week I could make most jobs work but it seemed like 1-3 a week would be so bad they were not even tintable. Like white on black. I had a camera also and it didn’t help those colors. Red pearls never seemed to match and seems like when I did find a good variant flake size was wrong.
It was not easily repairable. If you had a minor nib it was ok but it didn’t recoat well. It was a bit gummy to sand, I used the sanding sponges for that.
If I ever put my initial 1.5 coats on and let it dry and had to recoat it, say I discovered it wasn’t covered all the way or it was a three stage job, it would die back the next day. Very badly I might add. Never did find a fix for that. A third coat of clear seemed to help some of the times.
It was slow to dry. After using other systems I am not sure piling all the paint on at once really saves much time to be honest. You can put 3-5 coats on in the same time with other systems. It is nice only walking in the booth once for basecoat though.
Final appearance was decent. It never knocked your socks off but it worked. I used all higher voc clears so I don’t know how their low voc stuff works.
I did not like their flex additive, It was only a retarder which in my opinion is worthless. Almost every other company uses an elastifier now days which is great. In the low voc line it may be different though.
I thought a Devilbiss CVI worked best with their base for me, which is odd because I don’t like that gun for anything else.
Overall it would not be my first or even second choice if I had free reign to choose whatever system I could, but it’s workable. I think there are better systems out there. It could have had some of these issues fixed since I used it also. It has been 3 years or so.
Ask your jobber to calibrate the scale. Takes 30 seconds. It should be done regularly. Unless you’ll are just very unlucky the pro deck is alot more accurate than that.
when was the last time your scale was calibrated?
[quote=”ScottB” post=28347]This is Transtar Euro Kwik Clear. No booth, not buffed. Cheaper than AG-40, which I’ve also used on the last 3 trike bodies. This job just came back because the shipping company damaged the body. Looks the same now as when I shot it in June of this year.
[IMG]http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq70/Gargoyle_67/12hrlyunbuffed_0656-1.jpg[/IMG][/quote]Looks good! You didn’t have to buff and it was painted without a booth? I feel ashamed cause i still have to at least nib and polish and I use a high dollar booth. :blush:
Im with Jayson go with U-tech. It is tough as nails and priced well.
Never used Matrix but it seems to get good reviews. I have no experience with Transtar, seems to get mixed reviews.