ryan brown
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Whoever makes the paint you used on that must do a hell of a job! :p
Jayson gave good advice. One thing to remember. Focus on quality and speed will come with repetition. If you focus on speed first you never learn quality.
Also, having to sand with 1000 to buff sounds like a bit much. if there is that much texture focus on learning to spray good also. I would rather spend an extra 30-45 minutes on prep and spraying to save 1-2 hours buffing.
Vacuum sanding will go along way for that. Plus you can buy sanding blocks that work with vacuum also.
If you had a room just for prepping it would help also. That way it was at least contained.
Quite blowing dust off cars. I havent for years. I will wipe them off with waterborne degreaser after sanding. Once they appear clean then i will blow out the cracks. To conserve on cleaner just cut it with water some or use glass cleaner. You will go through more rags so keep some cheap ones or use microfiber ones and wash them.
Other than that just try and sweep everyday. By nature it is a dusty trade.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=27563]Here is the secret 😉 Good spraygun and technique,[b][color=#ff0000][u]proper speed of reducer for base,slower is always better.[/u][/color][/b]When it comes to drop coat some manufacturers recommend one and others do not due to adhesion problems.If you rush and clear to soon the clear can cause some mottling with some systems,proper flash is mandatory.[/quote]
This right here will fix most issues. Jayson pretty much nailed it here.
Well since Hub doesn’t just post it, I figured I wouldn’t either in case he wants it that way.
PM Sent
With the amount of cars Andy paints in a week I would say he has had plenty of time to dial in any gun. 😉
Plus I love hearing Andy say he likes a Sata better :p
Check this post out
[quote=”Painterman1″ post=27533]I tried the superior 250 and the engery pro 250 also and still wasn’t a big fan to me I think PPG has some of the best clears on the market I used all Sikkens lesenol and u tech clears and a lot of dupont BASF clears also u name it I tried it and to me I can’t find anything I like more then PPG clears[/quote]
Damn, thats a first. I would be hard pressed to find a clear I like more than Superior 250.
[quote=”Painterman1″ post=27526]Sikkens water base is by far the best water I’ve used color match is great and very user friendly I’ve had nothing but trouble with the dupont water since day one and tri coats r the worse with this system and to me not user friendly[/quote]
I agree, but i may be biased :whistle:
Using a black candy will give a better appearance. Regular basecoat toners use a carbon black pigment that is milled for the basecoat. A candy is a dye which lets it transmit more light and keep a cleaner appearance. Using just a toner will let less light through and can give it a bit of a dirty look if the wrong toner is chosen.
If you go the candy route some can be a bit too blue and need a drop of a gold/yellow candy to get the purple out of it.
Yes, high grade solvents are expensive. Typically the cheaper it is the faster it is.
The old saying still holds true, you get what you pay for.
It’s about damn time Andy! 😛
I have very good luck with the Devilbiss Teknas for waterborne basecoat. It’s comparable to the GTI Pro over on your side of the pond.
You had about everything going against you possible to be honest. Nason base is not the easiest to spray as it is lower quality. The generic reducer could have gave you even more problems. Typically cheaper solvents are faster. That gun with the silver aircap typically struggles with basecoats more so than others.
If possible use a higher end basecoat. They are usually cheaper in the long run.
Use one step slower reducer than the temp range calls for.
Be careful of spraying to light of coats. If you start getting a dry surface it will always look bad.
Make sure you use 75% overlap and spray 90 degrees to the surface.
Sometimes a drop coat put on a damp surface can help when struggling
Damn Jack those look great!