Scott
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Strip it to metal with 80 grit on a DA on grind mode would be my opinion, i have a 1995 GMC sierra at my shop at the moment with the same problem, im taking it to metal.
[quote=”metalhead” post=31850]I just finished my training in California for envirobase even ththough I use the aquabase and they couldn’t give me a cure for a problem I’ve been having. So I figured maybe you guys that use it every day could throw out some ideas. My problem is that the clear coat is pinching on the sides of the car only and only where base has been applied. I’m able to tack every coat of base before the next coat. The 6100 is the clear I’m using. I’ve also tried the 6330 and the 643 with the same results. Thanks for any help.[/quote]
I use Aquabase/Enviro.Without knowing your exact situation here are a few suggestions that might help. Pinching on the side— there is little air flow on the sides and maybe you applied more than 2-3 coats of base so the water hasn’t completely evaporated out and the latex in the paint is staying soft. Clear is skimming surface. Check on booth air flow, change clear—P190-6759—P190-6790 higher volume solid clear. For speed P190-6800 small repairs 2-3 panels. I wouldn’t use 6100 clear too fast, skimming, i know PPG has had issues of pinching on solvent base with this clear. P190-6100 and P190-643 not VOC compliant in Canada, but P190- 643 is a high solid clear. So Im thinking air flow/temperature on the sides with too much base coat” maybe”?? clear is being drawn into the base causing the clear to pinch. Usually see this a lot with generic clears- 5star, Transtar, preform has to do with the thinness of clear sinking.So check the volume solids of clear the higher the solid content the less pinching, die back, more shine, better polishing. I know 6100 is 38% volume solids and I think 6330 is the same. 643 was around 40%
[quote=”Anders” post=31791][quote=”smooth” post=31776]A maroon scuff pad is like 320 grit.[/quote]
According 3M it’s 360-400.
http://autobody101.com/scotch-brite-grits.pdf%5B/quote%5D
Sorry, I should have been more specific, I use Norton #747 maroon pads, they are just as good but cheaper…
A maroon scuff pad is like 320 grit. base a solid color over 400, 600 grit for metallic colors. Grey scratch pad is like 800 grit so IMO is not coarse enough to sand primer, why not just use a sheet of sand paper cut in 4 squares in the correct grit for each task?
I call Bullshit!!
Looks like you have a very nice setup going there, Nice work!
dvap.com
PN: ESU 470
PPG Delfleet Essential has a good low VOC Epoxy, Its an enhanced version of the CRE series epoxies. It “shells up” quickly and gets very hard.
Good advice jay, again Dupont arent know for their great color matches, i have butt matched bumper covers that color in PPG water.
You can put Epoxy primer over the filler than shoot a couple coats of 2k urethane primer after an induction time of maybe 1 hour (check Technical data sheet). Epoxy sands like ass, but most 2k urethane sand nice .
I also live in a area where rust is a major problem.Replacing the panel with a new one would be best but sometimes when thats not the case sandblasting is the ultimate rust killer, followed by properly cleaning with a wax and grease remover than an Acid etch or epoxy primer. Its important to get all exposed metal in primer as soon as possible because the moisture in the air can cause flash rust.And Stay away from those magical ” Rust Converters”, they can cause a paint job to fail.
If you are doing it on the cheap, i know that Spray Max has a 2k epoxy primer in a spray can, just a suggestion.
It would be faster to do the complete tailgate. By the time it takes to play around with it you could have it sanded and repaired and be done with it.
Thats an easy fix,get up under the quarter panel and tap out the damage as close as possible, grind down the paint on the exterior and pave it with filler, block till flat than skim it with glaze of putty, use etch primer on all bare metal spots than a good 2k urethane primer, block, than base and clear.