Scott
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
I have 0 comebacks in over 3 years due to paint failure using PPG’s water, the stuff is durable as hell, i have let the stuff dry on a paint stick for a couple of days and couldnt scrub it off if i wanted to, even on my own personal truck i touched up some stone chips with just base and no clear and it is holding up fine over a year now. Find it very hard to believe but maybe if its not completely dry before clear it could be a possibility.
[quote=”jim” post=31495]I feel that this is also a problem that has been kept kinda quiet :whistle: Waterborne has been used in my area for about 7 years and its out there I call it “creep” The water creeps into a stonechip and peels the paint away from the sealer. For some reason this dosent hapen very often, and I have only seen it at my shop 3 or 4 times in 7 years. There is no way I would leave un cleared waterborne to the elements hardened or not it does not have a very good mechanicial or chemicial hold out neither does solvent basecoat for that matter.[/quote]
Hey Jim what brand of waterbase are you using?
Great job nick, keep em coming! :cheers
Nice Work Nick!
actually that gun is supposed to save on material being a HVLP, it has a transfer efficiency rate of 65%, your problem is your running too high of air pressure should be around 10psi, also Check to see if the CFM(cubic feet per minute) is correct. Its critical to have the right amount of CFM for the gun to atomize properly.
I have an oil furnace in my shop, its gets expensive during the winter but its a good consistent heat and allows me to get the booth temp. to 30 degrees. all you need to do is build a furnace room up to code and run ductwork to different areas of the shop.
Be Careful with that diesel heater, may cause airborne contamination(fisheyes). Other than that it looks good, remember that the sky’s the limit.
Been Using Norton plastic for a long time, (16′ for trucks and 12′ for cars) mainly because of price and availability, haven’t tried any other to compare.
Ditch the 3m and bring in Norton products, I use the white Norton masking paper, yellow Norton tape, and the Norton Gold reserve 6″ sanding discs. With my discount from my jobber no one can come close to the cost of what i pay for Norton products, when it comes to paint supplies i use Top end for everything, my thought on this is that the more expensive paint products will cost more up front but will make up in the end because they are generally better and will save on labor. Pro Form has great Panel bond kits at a fraction of the cost, work on only mixing as much paint and clear as your going to need for the job aswell because thats probably the biggest expense on each job.
I find if i wear a clean suit,water the floor(cross draft), have the gun, air supply and filters clean ,use waterborne cleaner for last wipe, mask to seal and tack everything well has worked very good for me. I dont have a dust issue.
Hi Jason, Color matches arent Dupont’s strong point, I have used plenty of Chromabase and Premiere in the past. Im not sure if Synergy Green is a Tri stage in Premiere or not, If it is try and get your ground coat as close as possible and do a let down panel to determine how many coats of pearl it will take to get the desired effect. Give yourself plenty of room to blend it out and you should be fine, Heres a video of Jimmo doing that color…
Hi Rob, Jimmos You tube videos brought me here too. I use Nexa at my shop, the PPG version is called Envirobase.
:welc
Im not the supplied-air kinda guy but i have been hearing great things about the Sata and devilbiss units, Kinda expensive tho. 3m also has some nice ones.
[quote=”nick1″ post=31191]Thanks for all the feedback guys. What does the SS stand for?[/quote]
Single stage
[quote=”jim c” post=30964]Jimmo i do know exactly what the guy was talking about with the polishing first but your also going to have peeling issues down the road. Anything beyond 800grit becomes problem.[/quote]
Agreed! not much tooth with 1000 grit.