Scott
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[quote=”Daven1256″ post=30486]Hello Smooth…thank you for your reply.
How do you get a 5% ratio when you are scooping the filler out of the can with a paint stick and squeezing the hardner out of the tube? Is it a matter of feel and judgement or the amount of time it stays spreadable?
When you say 20 minutes drying time, is that the time you should wait to sand after applying the filler?…..or how long after sanding till you can paint?
What would be a brand name of “final wipe solvent” and where do you get it? Is there a certain amount of time you should wait to know the solvent is evaporated out of the filler so you are ready for paint.
Thanks……Dave[/quote]
I usually judge how much hardener to put on my filler,the more you do it the better you get. The video that bloverby posted shows a good example (even though i dont think that repair in the video is straight :P)
A good brand of final wipe solvent would be any of major paint manufactures brand. I always liked Duponts “wash n wipe”, You should be able to get some final wipe at any automotive paint store.
After you finish sanding your filler you need to prime the repair before you can paint it.
[quote=”ding” post=30454][quote=”smooth” post=30453]I am currently using the old style Norton liners until my jobber runs out, probably the cheapest liner system out there, they have been changed due to the fact that they are very similar to the 3M pps ststem (Legal issues). They are now updated but am hearing about issues with the new design. I use them for base only.[/quote]
What kind of issues are you hearing[/quote]My jobber recieved a bulletin from Norton that they were having an issue with suction and paint flow, probably more of a waterborne issue.
[quote=”ding” post=30454][quote=”smooth” post=30453]I am currently using the old style Norton liners until my jobber runs out, probably the cheapest liner system out there, they have been changed due to the fact that they are very similar to the 3M pps ststem (Legal issues). They are now updated but am hearing about issues with the new design. I use them for base only.[/quote]
What kind of issues are you hearing[/qmy jobber was notified by Norton that there was an issue with suction and paint flow. Probably more of a waterborne issue.
I am currently using the old style Norton liners until my jobber runs out, probably the cheapest liner system out there, they have been changed due to the fact that they are very similar to the 3M pps ststem (Legal issues). They are now updated but am hearing about issues with the new design. I use them for base only.
Good looking job. :clappy
:spraywelc:
All they Major paint manufacturers make an anti static wipe. I have always used soap and water or waterborne cleaner.
[quote=”BBlakley” post=30362]Shooting Nexxa Autocolor. Need a sealer gun. Thinking the Iwata LPH 440, or the SATA 100 B F. Anybody use these guns or perhaps anything else?[/quote]
I am also shooting Nexa Autocolor, the sealers are great and lay flat by nature, I use a 1.3 in a Devilbiss tekna. Always remember that sealer likes to be sprayed like clear so a good clear gun will work fine too. Ex. SATA,Iwata, Sagola. :weights
Looking good Benny! :clappy
Welcome Dave
1) You should have about 4-5% hardener in your filler.
2) dry time depends on temp. 20 mins should do.
3) Filler will need to be primed first before paint.
4) Prime your filler than sand when your ready to paint
5) I only use wax and grease remover for the fist wipe down before sanding. A final wipe solvent would be better.
6) A decent 2k urathane primer will be fine over your filler.
I alwAys take deep scratches to metal, it’s the correct way of doing it. As stated by Ben chips should be taken to metal too but I more often than not just fill with glaze. Chips won’t be as noticeable if they do happen to ghost rather than gouging out the paint and making the repair bigger . Just my opinion.
Good stuff Jack, love and prayers go out to your son
Seems like you have quite a bit of skill Glen, keep the pics comming, good job.
Looks nice Dag!