Scott

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Viewing 15 posts - 301 through 315 (of 721 total)
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  • November 2, 2012 at 3:56 am #38853

    [quote=”JackMarshall” post=27956]I would give it a buzz over with 320 on the outside and the large areas of the bumper, then a red scotchbrite on the back of the bonnet and edges/corners of the bumper.

    Prime it, let it sit overnight if your not baking.

    Sand them to either 800 wet or 600 dry, quick rub with a grey pad again and your good to go.[/quote]

    Seems like an awful lot of work…

    November 2, 2012 at 3:45 am #38852

    To much to soon. Need to let flash longer and get the air moving so the solvents can escape.

    October 29, 2012 at 2:30 am #38826

    X2….. #5 sealer.

    October 26, 2012 at 2:31 am #38796

    3M here as well. No complaints…

    October 24, 2012 at 7:04 pm #38772

    Welcome aboard!

    October 24, 2012 at 6:58 pm #38771

    Seems pretty idiot proof to me 😛 . Thanks jimmo

    October 24, 2012 at 4:36 am #38752

    You need the 0.01g scale for mixing paint. Sartorius makes great scales.
    These are the ones I have in my shop. http://www.sartorius.com/en/products/laboratory/paint-mixing-systems/paint-mixing-scales/

    October 19, 2012 at 7:03 pm #38701

    I live on an island in the Atlantic Ocean where humidity is high all year around and rust is a major problem. The only product i use is Rust Check. It comes in a Red type that is runny ,great for the bottom of door skins and such or a green type that has a heavier body and is great for under carrages or anywhere you want it to stick. I do my own personal vehicals once a year and use it for all new parts that are installed on my customers cars.It will absorb into the metal and actually creep, not just stay on top of it. Its been around along time and really is good stuff.

    Homepage

    October 18, 2012 at 7:20 pm #38681

    [quote=”johnmaloney88″ post=27790]i can’t paint directly onto the e coat on the panel can i?[/quote]

    No. All new parts must be sealed.

    October 16, 2012 at 12:42 am #38652

    Been hearing alot of adhesion problems with that system. excessive dry times are a must, been told to wait 45mins after base before you can clear. That really sucks

    October 15, 2012 at 7:15 pm #38638

    welcome

    October 15, 2012 at 7:14 pm #38637

    good job.

    October 14, 2012 at 10:55 pm #38621

    [quote=”johnmaloney88″ post=27742]Need to paint a new wing and most of a door on a ’08 passat. it got a tip on the side, the wing needs to be replaced so will come in the standard black coat, i’ll prime that with grey primer, the door has some light damage near the wing so will need a small amount of repair and to be grey primed. so i need to paint the full wing and blend back into the door and clear both panels. i think the colour is shadow blue. how much mixed ready to spray solvent basecoat will i need? thanks[/quote]

    Alot of variables to take into account. What color, which brand of paint(some cover better than others), are you using sealer or valushade, what kind of gun and how big is the wing? pics would help.

    October 14, 2012 at 2:33 am #38607

    Sorry to hear bud, look up. there is and always will be work in this trade if you are any good. best of luck to ya…

    October 12, 2012 at 7:22 pm #38586

    [quote=”nick@dunsdale” post=27707]who is maaco being from the other side of the pond i have never heard of them, but they seem to be associated with ahitty work lol

    Give me a brief outline of who they are, and why their rep is so bad.

    What type of work do they do, are they some sort of supermarket type bodyshop

    Thanks Nick[/quote]

    They are large auto body chain over here that do economy paint jobs. They dont have a very good reputation.

Viewing 15 posts - 301 through 315 (of 721 total)