Scott
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LOL. You need plastic panel bonding adhesive if you are going to repair it. Norton and 3m make good products.
I personally dont do many bumper repairs, i like to replace with a good quality Aftermarket or used OEM to keep the cost down.Got any pics?
Welcome
Both Epoxy and etch are used for bare metal. Etch is the faster of the two and relyes on chemical adhesion and mostly used in collision repair because of its speed.
Epoxy is slower but can be used wet on wet if the recoat window doesnt expire, if it does it needs to be scuffed before top coated. Can also be used as a sealer. Epoxy relyes on mechanical adhesion and is the more durable of the two.Can be sprayed on bare metal and Bondo work can be done over the top of it unlike etch. Epoxy is mainly used in a restoration/industrial setting.[quote=”ding” post=27218][quote=”s2kprem” post=27217]how have they worked out for you? have people been calling after putting them up[/quote]
They sure have :whistle:[/quote]
:woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo:
It doesnt surprise me that the Chromabase color match SUCKS! :blink:
I used that system for over 10 years :blush:[quote=”skz71″ post=27174]What about premoter or flex additive???[/quote]
No need for promotor if the cover is primed. I like to flex my sealer tho.[quote=”skz71″ post=27171]got the bumper cover today and its infact primed inside is still raw plastic. So can i use premoter and base and clear. Also the project became another pain in my BUTT… Went and shoot the jams and the dam paint dont match. so off to the paint supplier i went and brought with me the old bumper cover and a section that i tested their paint on to show them difference. Then had them shoot the bumper cover with their camera and guess what their camara came up with a different code. But they tried telling me that i didnt use right temp reducer and the metalic stood up which gave me a different color. I said is so why did camera come up with different color. And if metalic stood up why does it laid down flat. So tomorrow im having them come to garage and shoot the door for a color match. and hope for the best. Any thoughts out their on this. Idea of whats wrong me or them or what maybe i might be doing wrong. Using a devillbiss gun croma base paint 1 to 1 mixture also tried less reducer which helped a little. 45 psi which is recommended. but also tried less. instruction say 1 to 1 mixture and 45 psi which i tried. it seemed to lay out fine to me. But they say wrong temp reducer. It was in garage. And i used mid temp reducer. It didnt look like went on dry. and laid down like normal I thought. But id say if paint code used to mix paint and the camera are to differnt colors then i would say color mixed is wrong.Garage was 74 degress[/quote]
Sealer is a must… inside doesnt matter. if its primed outside scuff with grey scotch brite, sealer,base and clear
[quote=”MoCoke” post=27159][quote=”Jayson M” post=27156]I voted for the camaro 😛 😛 :P[/quote]
x2 :whistle:[/quote]
Your bad. lol
never
sata 1.4
[quote=”Jayson M” post=27141]I vote for sealer as well….not a fan of basing on raw plastic or a primed bumper.Bulldog adpro is junk in my book.[/quote]
X2….. sealer is a mustObtain a TDS (technical data sheet) for the products you are using, read and follow it closely.
back tape for base, clear over it and be done…
If you are sanding clear with 400 to make it look good i think you need more practice at painting. That is ludacris. The best looking jobs i have seen are the ones that were sanded and recleared.(flow coated) they always has a more glossey look and atleast you are not forever chasing swirls and haze. Been there and done that.
I personally hate a cut and buffed finish, seems everyone can cut and buff these days. Take the buffer from them and see how good they are. I can appriciate a flat off the gun finish more due to knowing it takes more effort/experience to do so.
Keep practising…