Scott
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didnt work
Why cant i see anything???
welcome to the forum
[quote=”JCClark” post=27043]You guys have been stuck in “collision repair” paint jobs to long,
High End custom shops generally start with 400 grit to sand their clear,
you won’t get rid of urethane wave completely useing something
above 600 grit. Try it once and you’ll see the difference.
I know I didn’t believe it either at first, but it does make a difference.http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/perfect%20paint.htm%5B/quote%5D
Us “Collision repair” guys that paint everyday, dont get urathane wave to sand out. All we have to sand is the odd dust nib and dont rely on cutting and polishing to make our work look good.
We are experienced painters that paint in a production setting that will put those custom shop painters to shame.
If the “high end” custom shops are using that generic crap i really doubt they are “high end”.You need Epoxy not etch. Etch is mainly used in a production setting because of its speed. Epoxy is superior for adhesion due to it relying on mechanical adhesion unlike etch relying on chemical adhesion. Blasted metal gets Epoxy, its the best for rust protection and is mainly used in restorations.
use whatever air pressure the gun manufacturer recommends. IMO 25 psi does sound a bit low
check to see if the air passage on the top of the cup might be clogged and the gun is choking up. Or if the air cap is dirty or fluid tip needs to be cleaned or could be the gun is assembled wrong.
From experience, i think you should be fine…
If there isnt any more adhesion problems like jay mentioned and if its black than just paint the fenders. Black doesnt need to be blended 99% of the time.
I use the exact copy of EHP called Nexa Autocolor. If the T490 is a clear adjuster/wetbed like i think it is than yes it is perfectly fine to cut it 50/50 for your blendoff.PPG actually recommends it. Sometimes on a trickey color i will lay down a wetbed and blend off with the clear adjuster. Its a must have for Tri-stage blends.
No. Have tryed it myself. Works fine…
I doubt its Bondo. A finishing putty is my guess.
Im using a Sata 4000 Rp. I have used a 1.3 with great results but its too slow for that gun.
[quote=”stanclub” post=26998]Thanks for the answers!
I would want to start with P1500 trizact, but I am new to this clear, and still trying to get it lay down well. I will get some P1200 for my next project if I still can’t get the clear to lay down flat.
Another question. Trizact P1500 is a bit costly, but it works much better than dry finishing film on clear that is drys for days or longer. If I use P1500 dry finishing film on AG40LV clear within 48 hours dry time ( still soft ), will I be able to buff out its pigtails if followed by P3000 Trizact?
Smooth, do you reduce this clear? If you do, how much reducer? Thanks much![/quote]
No reducer. I think it actually might say not to reduce it. Just 2:1 through a sata 4000 Rp 1.4 close and fast at 26-30 psi and the stuff lays like glass.
800 is a no no. 1200 is the coarsest grit i would use. I use that clear everyday and i consider is effortless to cut and buff…