Scott
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How about Canada? its nice up here this time of year :whistle:
Good job man. Nice set up too. :cheers
Tri stages are getting more common every year in North America. Doing a complete shouldnt be very hard. Just make sure you have coverage with the ground coat than just add the number of coats of pearl you desire. I would suggest you walk the side when applying the pearl. I wouldnt suggest you do two separate sessions but with a good painter it can be done.
[quote=”Red Baron” post=25695]FYI, Sikkens has motorcycle chip books. You just have to know the right people.
Geez, isnt that great service…
:blink:
dust in paint, runs, uneven coverage, orange peel, low gloss, if they removed the trim or taped it up( door handles, belt mouldings, weather strips, headlights and tail lights etc.)Which can lead to peeling. If their bodywork was done straight and no scratches and no visible tape lines to name a few. Take your time and give it a look over. Beig an experienced bodyman these things seem to jump out at me when i look at a car.
PPG has a complete listing for all motorcycle manufacturers on their paint systems. What is color pro?
[quote=”Mmautobody” post=25658]@smooth Whats wrong with Sikkens?[/quote]
:blink: I didnt say there was….
IMO the two that seem to be leading the pack are PPG with the Envirobase/Nexa aquabase and ( i hate to say this) Akzo Nobel with Sikkens Autowave. :blush:
Well to tell you the truth i havent tryed the SPI clear but it is on my list of products to try in the future because i have heard great things about it from some people. As for the Kirker, i havent tryed it either but i would suggest leaving it alone because its a low end product and the reviews i have read about were all saying it was crap.
“Cult following” :rofl
IMO dont cut with anything more agressive than 1500 grit (unless its a big piece of trash, cut that with 1200) cut till flat.
Tape of your edges and creases so you will not burn through your clear when sanding and polishing.
after 1500 grit move up to 2000 grit to remove all the 1500 grit scratches.
Move on to 3000 grit to remove the 2000 grit scratches, by this time it should almost be shiney.
Start with a medium cut compound on a rotary buffer until all the scratches are gone.
finish off with a finishing glaze to remove the swirles from the compound. Than i personally use a detailer spray to clean up the compound residue.
I dont know how much clear coat was used but three coats is recommeded for cutting and buffing but it can be done with 2 coats when you use caution.
This is a very time comsuming and tedious process if done right. Good luck
PPG Value pro :weights
Etch the decal with 800 grit or grey scratch pad to give the clear some tooth 😉
There are alot of RP’s around here 😉