Scott
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Go with the flow coat instead of the buff! Keep the pics comming.
Stick to the gun manufacturers recommendations.
[quote=”Ben” post=32686]It will be here soon. Turns out I’m already signed up for the first training class/demo. I believe that will be in about a month. Appearantly they solved the fast drying issues and gave it slowed down better.[/quote]
The Sherwin not cutting it for ya Ben??? LOL
Yup. one of the down sides of color sanding, super hard and very time consuming. I shoot for a nice finish off the gun,IMO it looks better for longer, with color sanding if its not done correctly ( long way around) all you are doing is chasing swirls. Key is to keep your pads and towels as clean as possible or i have found is to wipe up with a detailer spray.
[quote=”jim” post=32632]The adhesion problems I am talking about are coming from all the paint companies, Are shop has been lucky and only seen a handfull, I use standoblue. If you have a stone chip on your bumper you best not get to close with the presure washer, and thats any water borne paint IMO[/quote]
Im willing to bet its user error, like Jay said jumping on the base too soon with clear. No adhesion problems here…
[quote=”jim” post=32614]This could be a game changer for Basf, I kida seen it coming to, It will be interesting to see if any of the other big names follow. Even though everybody raves about how much they like waterborne I bet with a good low voc solvent system there would be alot of people change back, I have been using waterborne for about 7 years now and can clearly see a adhesion problem that has been kept quiet from the big paint names. I cant wait to here some feedback about this product. Basf really had to do something there hybrid system was to slow for production IMO.[/quote]
What Waterborne paint are you using?
Looks good, what kind of car is it?
Good stuff buddy, Im happy for you! :cheers
Looking good guys, I thought for a minute you got that monster in the booth.
Have you tryed water soluable paint markers?
Two sided tape. I am assuming the bottom “lip” is attached to the bumper with two sided tape.
remove it by cutting the tape all the way around, remove the existing tape from both pieces using a stripper/caramel wheel on a drill or whatever you have, clean with wax and grease remover or some other type of solvent, re-tape the spoiler and get someone to give you a hand to re-install and press it on tight.
Call me Gay if you want but for large amounts of filler/Mud work i use a cheese grater, IMO i think its faster and it definitely cuts down on dust, Build it up and carve it out at the right time.lol It is recommended you scratch the filler with 40 grit between coats. I have used just about every brand of paper out there and find that Norton is the best bang for your buck.
I own a straight line sander and use it quite often to just take of the top skim and sort of rough it out before i block by hand, it is worth its weight in gold when you are strapped for time and need to tear of the mud in a hurry. But i would never final sand with one, they are generally too fast for that.
X2, It really is good stuff, it might be a little more cost than solvent but imo well worth it, I use waterborne gun wash mixed 1:1 with tap water, works fine.