Stone
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small town here … got an add on the front of the local phone book for 30 years now , but thats about it … here it’s word of mouth and maintaining a good rep. B) cutting a deductible or giving something for nothing can sometimes be my best add dollar. 😉
[b]bondomerchant wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]HCC/WCC wrote:[/b]
[quote]Hey guys im new to the site and thought I would chime in here,I have two shops in Nor CAl that are doing very well,I always ask the parts drivers and adjusters what it is like out in our neck of the woods… they have been telling me for months now we are one of few still busy….I hope we can keep up this pace during these tuff times,I have some of the best guys working for me and do not want to send anybody home or lose them….[/quote]
ya i understand what ur saying lotsa guys south of me in spokane have been laid off here im doing ok but i dont have much overhead i sorta think …..or hope things pick back up economically around here been hard on all businesses here an that can bite all of us in the A$$ somtimes[/quote]YUP 😉
:welc
ouch …. nothin worse than screwing up the blend panel …. When I notice soon enough ., that it ain’t workin , I’ve taken a rag and my reducer for my paint , and wiped it off and started over totally . cause you can’t afford to screw the blend panel.
at this point you may have to spray the whole side :unsure:[b]MoCoke wrote:[/b]
[quote]rust has to be removed completely not painted over. if its surface rust its best to use a sand blaster to remove rust in the craters. if its holes, ull need to cut it out and weld in patches. when the metal is all smooth and rust free, prime it with epoxy primer 1st, then do the body work 2nd, followed with 2k high build last. dont use the rust converter stuff. pure crap[/quote]and when sand blasting isn’t an option …. a wire wheel on a grinder is an alternative. B)
cool reflection in the one pic looks like a ghosted in emblem ……….. any of your friends ever say “nex your nuts” nice job B)
hmmmmmm …. i’m thinking that the low spots are a result of a high spot which is your soft spot in between the two lows and you need a backing pad or a shrink :unsure: and remember , the coarser the paper , the straighter the cut. 😉
basically a shingle that sticks on the back side http://www.goodspeedmotoring.com/wurth-european-sound-deadening-panels-0890100060.html
I’M a WIZARD :smoke :kofee :cheers :stoned B)
perhaps the panel needs a backing pad … is it a little “oil can” cause when it can’t handle the pressure of the blocking the soft spot will remain high :unsure:
PDR is becoming pretty attractive during these tight times when I can give a quick $200 fix in place of a $1000-$2000 repair , 4 PDR’s booked for monday , and another (the 4th) face book job. “never say grampa” Let’s dance kids :rock
:unsure: got a couple sheets to write today :unsure:
:rock
:welc
raw plastic bumpers don’t require sanding with adhesion promoters and plastic primer :unsure: