Lloyd
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Wydir…OK, you have beat me enough, haha. I will go and get the GE switch in the box. Hope I can mount it that low, I don’t really want to pulling another wire higher or splice one inside a junction box? Thanks.
Canuck…I understood everything you said, except getting the wires tied down together. Which wires are you talking about specifically? I must have missed something. Thanks.
My goodness, toners are getting up there!!! I purposely started and stopped the compressor several times (just kept letting the air out). The compressor has never tripped the 20A circuit breaker in the panel. While the compressor was running, I cut that little switch off and on three or four times (don’t know if that’s bad for the compressor, but wanted to see it work). The circuit breaker in the service panel (20A) will trip before that switch is burned up since that switch specifically made for it’s intended purpose (30A). The rated load the compressor pulls running is 15A. You know I went into the mechanical room at work today and saw a similar switch on an Air Force compressor, it was rated at 60A (I work for the government as a civilian). Now I look at everything around me electrical, haha.
As far as the 40A start-up surge the compressor causes, it’s merely for a split second which is why it never trips the breaker. That breaker has to be overloaded for a specific amount of time and heated to a certain temperature before it activates. Whatever that time period is in miliseconds, the compressor does not do it long enough to trip the circuit.
Hopefully, your prediction will not become reality, it hasn’t yet.
Actually Ryan…this brings me to another point that may help someone else on the forum who may be trying to do the same thing. Here is what’s been done to this point all in to post.
0. I bothered people on the forum many, many, many times for information.
1. Upgraded the residential service from 100A to 200A.
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2. Installed a 100A breaker in the residential panel to service the detached garaged.
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3. Buried 100 feet of 1-1/2″ gray PVC (pipe made for this purpose) 30″ below grade and pulled #3 Aluminum cable (3) through the wires for the 100A supply ([color=#ff0000]that was a pain to do by hand[/color]). Don’t have a photos, sorry.
4. Installed a 100A service panel in the garage.
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5. Placed the appropriate 15A and 20A breakers ( a better compressor would have required a 30A breaker) in the garage box.
6. Ran 1/2″ rigid EMT to all outlets and junction boxes for receptacle supply, lights, compressor, etc.
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7. Pulled 12/2 cable (rated up to 20A) through all conduits and installed CFCI outlets and fluorescent lights.
8. Installed a compressor (60 gallon, 3.7 hp, 155psi max. 13.7 CDM air at 40psi).
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9. Installed air service with 1/2″ pvc (I would highly suggest using copper or some other metal pipe rated to handle the air load and not using PVC piping as I have).
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10. I purchased 5, 1500 CFM exhaust fans for air flow and put them inside a box to sit under the garage door to let the door down on when painting (run on high, they will exchange the volume of air in the paint area two times in one minute). Once done, will have to test this air flow to see if it’s too much and how sprayed paint acts while the exhaust is working.
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11. I am now starting to place plastic around the walls prior to drywall to help with moisture control inside the paint area during humid Midwest summer months.
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That’s where the project is right now, got some more light to install, finish the plastic, put in the drywall and put in some more air to create downdraft.
Sorry for the long posts, hopefully they can be of some benefit to someone else as the forum has been a tremendous resource for me.
Doc
Ryan…a guy at my job is an electrician and what you said is basically the same as he told me…I called him after your post…the only difference is the fused switch part, he suggested the switch I put in and showed me his installation at commercial shops around the city (automotive repair, not body shops). He also said that NEC does not require this much effort, but county and city codes go above NEC regulations. So, if it’s overkill, it’s ok with me, at least I don’t have to worry about little critters chewing through the wires on the compressor.
This actually has been quite an interesting experience as I am learning a huge amount about electrical wiring…first time I ever did everything from service panel installation from the house all the way to the end of each circuit in the detached garage…it’s much less involved than I thought…ALL YOU ELECTRICIANS OUT THERE, YOU’RE GETTING OVER LIKE FAT RATS, HAHA!!!
I haven’t found the adjustment for the pressure shut-off yet, but I haven’t looked into it that diligently either as of yet.
Thanks
Wyder…yes, I thought it was ok to just plug it into a CFCI outlet with the outlet being on a dedicated circuit (separate circuit for each motored item), but was told different. Anyway, I know it is compliant at this point so it’s ok and if it’s ever inspected, the inspector likes to see extra measures taken. Better safe than sorry.
I see you have a PPG emblem as your profile pic and was thinking of trying some PPG products in the future. I know the Dupont system, but not PPG. There is a PPG supplier within 2 miles of my house and a Dupont supplier within two blocks.
Hey Guys,
I said I would try to post info concerning my homemade paint setup as I progress through the process. I have brought the compressor up to code. I used a switch from Home Depot –> http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xj1/R-100356941/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
And I also used the flexible conduit to encase the 12/2 conductors connected to the compressor.
Here is the switch in place
Here is the the line attached to the compressor
A view of the whole setup
Thanks for all the help.
Ryan:
Roger that…I found this at Lowe’s –> http://www.lowes.com/pd_69898-295-55082121_0__?productId=3134999&Ntt=1%2F2%22+flexible+conduit&pl=1¤tURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3D1%252F2%2522%2Bflexible%2Bconduit
I don’t need very much of it and that 10 gauge wire is too heavy for a 15A circuit load. I actually tested the current (with a multimeter) with the compressor running and it measured 13A. But, I guess you can never be safe enough with electricity!!!
Thanks for your time, I appreciate the help.
btw… how do you create a hyperlink in a word on this forum? Then I can stop pasting these long links.
Doc
The compressor is rated at 15A, and I am using 12/2 wire (think I need to go to 10 gauge?). It has never tripped the breaker (20A) to this point. It’s from Lowe’s, here is the link to the page –> http://www.lowes.com/pd_221565-14989-LLA3706056_0__?newSearch=true&catalogId=10051&productId=3115863&UserSearch=60+gallon+compressor&Ntt=60+gallon+compressor&N=0&langId=-1&storeId=10151&ddkey=http:SearchCatalog
I have had my fair share of experience with OSHA also at work on construction projects, haha, and I understand your concern on the PVC pipe usage for air. It will be changed soon.
I looked at the photo, got it. I will pick one up today from Home Depot. And will do on the pressure shutoff also, Thanks.
What a minute MoCoke, you are absolutely correct, that should be a GFCI outlet, my bad. I will get that corrected today, thanks for catching that as I want to try and be as compliant as possible.
Outstanding and looking good :clappy . I know it must feel really good to work on your own home and you will surely appreciate it much more after it’s done. Enjoy it and thanks for the photos, now you have me thinking about foam insulation in my garage for the paint booth, haha…can you rent that equipment or do you have to be licensed to spray that foam? Those little rattle cans at Lowe’s would take me an awful long time (laughing hysterically, :rock).
What would need to be done? I thought that NEC says it needs to be on a dedicated circuit and have a way to disconnect it within close proximity to the compressor itself. Please advise and I will try and get it done properly (I don’t actually have a copy of NEC code).
Thanks,
DocHi guys, I have made a little progress on the paint booth.
1. Power has been run to the garage from my house (100A)
2. 110 Volt outlets installed outside the booth with GFCI’s.
3. Compressor properly installed with quick disconnect from power (NEC).
4. Properly installed electrical fixture in the paint booth inside junction boxes.
5. 7000 CFM of airflow to place under the garage door and then let the door down on it to seal the booth (as best it can be sealed anyway).
I will try and continue to add photos as I go further. I’m taking my time with this since I work full time and really haven’t found what I’m looking for in an auto to work on. Thanks for all the help, it has been invaluable.
Doc
Wonderful looking little Beetle…you have it licked now!!!
Thank you very much for that…same to you and yours.
