Lloyd
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I’m in Illinois, are you the “he charged too much police.” Yes, I agree, it was in a bothersome spot and it really did look absolutely terrible considering the condition of the rest of the car. Han, I offerd to just take some touch-up paint and knock it out for free, but the customer felt strongly that it should look as good as the rest of the car, if not better. So….I made it look better, haha, then the question was, why does it look better than the rest of the car. Of course trying to explain the whole factory, custom thing did not go over very well, but the customer was a happy camper and is giving referrals. I talk like I have been doing this forever, haha, this is the first job I’ve done in 15 years (outside of my car).
No, I clear it on the car…I didn’t see any need to take it off, so I blended the paint, then blended the clear, wet sanded it and polished it. Of course the work I did looks better that the factory finish, but I tried not to get too far away from factory.
It doesn’t bother me any, haha, very funny, can’t say the first date was at Western Sizzler though, we went and played miniature golf.
I have a question…was $200 too much to charge for sanding that, filling the little scrapes (those three spots), priming, paint, and clearing. Took me about 4 hours with puddy dry, sanding, flash and such. Thanks?
The pic is there, I had to resize it so it could be uploaded.
Completed photo. [img]http://www.refinishnetwork.com/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/images/cpolish2.JPG[/img]
OK, that sounds like a winner, single stage urethane on top of sealer, heck I paint cars I can do that. So, I have another question, what kind of Dupont paint would you suggest (will get the sealer that go with that paint)? The Colormaster store near me has Dupont paint as it’s choice paint.
Good God, tell him not to try that again. I am nothing more than a novice, but my goodness!!!
Well, I am at the end now. What did I learn from you guys and this process:
1. Do not paint a car in a paint booth when the ambient temperature is 112 degrees Fahrenheit in the booth and the humidity is above 90 percent.
2. Make sure when spraying paint to be close enough to the painting surface (15 years ago I painted a car with a conventional siphon feed at 60 psi, that’s a far cry from the efficiency of the Iwata LPH400 and 18 psi).
3. Make sure when buffing or polishing to keep the rpms low, like 800 rmp and I won’t burn any more of my paint.
4. Take my time a use 4 days to paint the car right instead of three stages in one day.
5. Make sure when spraying clear to definitely be more close (like 4 inches) to eliminate a lot of the orange peel, this sanding and buffing thing is brutal, haha.
6. Use more time when taping the vehicle.
7. Listen, listen, listen to the experts of this forum!!!![img]http://www.refinishnetwork.com/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/images/Gbuff4.JPG[/img]
I have Dekups with my Iwata LPH400 and it was not difficult or bothersome to use. I have never used the 3M PPS system, but assume it works the same (it cost a lot more though and I prefer to save money whenever possible). I did have to order an adapter for the Iwata gun though ($10 extra over the internet).
I let the car sit for a while and then put it in the sun. While there is a mirror like finish on the car after buffing, it has hazy spots in it. I guess I could reevaluate the situation once I polish it with the McGuire’s swirl remover.
For all you guys who do this for a living, my hat is off to you…doing this part-time when you have another full-time job just doesn’t work ver well (even if it is your car you’re working on). I see some spots where a sun light would have been beneficial too, pretty dark paint booth if you noticed from the earlier pics. Here we go again…
Thx, Doc
Thanks to all you guys for your help. I think I have achieved what’s acceptable to me. It’s not quite
a mirror, but it’s very close. Thx. [img]http://www.refinishnetwork.com/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/images/Gbuff2.JPG[/img]…that’s awesome, I hope mine will look half that good. It’s been a long time since I sprayed paint and the first time I’ve invested this much energy into trying to achieve a nice shine. The forum is making life much easier. Thanks to all of you.
I did that with 800 grit because I am lazy and I was sanding three coats of clear….will
follow with 1500 and maybe 2000. That sound good?Is this the way the clear sanding is suppose to look? It was a mily color the whole
time and I never got the base coat color. I apologize for asking so many questions, but I
am trying to do this right. Thanks in advance. [img]http://www.refinishnetwork.com/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/images/clearsanding.jpg[/img]
