David Clark
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I have been told that in the near future hs+ will be phased out. I switched to hs+ 2 pack a few months ago and love it, I think it’s better than the old HS+.
I demoed the nova LS 1.3. I really loved it but it was a touch slow. Then demoed a 4000rp 1.3. It was faster and 100.00 cheaper so I went with it. Everyday I regret that dicision. I get much better jobs with my old lph400 1.4. I hardly use the rp and mostly use the LPH.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=29060][quote=”Whitesnake” post=29059]No one mentioned the Acme FC710 and FC720 yet? Geez…[/quote]
Actually our very own Jack/bondomerchant uses those 2 clears exclusively :wak :cheers[/quote]I have used it on a few jobs and its pretty good stuff! I painted a bedside with it over two years ago, did not buff it. I just looked at that truck the other day and it still looked great! Wish I could say the same for some of sherwins high end clears :blush:
[quote=”ryan999″ post=28655]A couple things i have used with great success are the following.
If using foam tape I like the newer 3M blue and white. If I am painting a quarter I will put the adhesive side of the foam on the rear door. When I shut the door there will be some foam in the gap you have to push back to make it flush. Leave it sticking out some. Once the car is sealed use a spreader to push the foam back some so the base will cover your sealer. Works very well like this.
If using folded tape like the ez edger, once the jamb is taped put a piece of fine line 1/8 of an inch past where the tape edge is and leave some of the fine line on the outside of the panel so it can be peeled off after sealer. Now your base will cover the sealer and the line from the fine line will be easily covered.
With all that said if you are doing a car like some Mercedes out there where the jamb is very flat and there are no easy ares to tape, try and avoid sealer there and use the folded tape real close to the edge.[/quote]
That’s some excellent advice Ryan!
[quote=”Jayson M” post=28445][quote=”Underpaid Painter” post=28443][quote=”Jayson M” post=28441]I thought you had a tekna ?Thats about the best basecoat gun you will get,one air cap does everything ;)[/quote]
For solvent or water?[/quote]
The tekna works great for waterborne or solvent,I also like a sata rp for solvent base.[/quote]Thanks, I use a nr3000 for auto base plus. I have tried my 4000 rp and it does ok. It uses a lot of material though so I just stick with the hvlp.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=28441]I thought you had a tekna ?Thats about the best basecoat gun you will get,one air cap does everything ;)[/quote]
For solvent or water?What is the advantage of using the two pack version over the regular version?
I have never been able to figure out why it’s such a secret! I know what it is but I’m too afraid I may get called out for telling everyone!
I have a 4000 rp 1.3. It’s a nice gun and sprays ok. I wish I would have bought the supernova though. I also have an LPH 400 that I just keep going back to. It is slower than my 4000 but I can still get HS+ to lay down like glass with it. It just suits my spray style better than the rp.
Thanks for the input guys! It helps a lot!
He uses M600 for most everything. Once in a while he will use anti stat for things??? I’m not sure why he doesnt like it. Before I came to work there I guess they had a lot of issues with things. I personally have not had any issues.
The only problem I have ever had was a clear delam. It was a red in abp with lesonal pro air over it. It was peeling in sheets, clear came a way from the base. Sent a sample in and sikkens said it was from baking it? They paid us to redo it.
It’s the 1.28. I have been using it for over a year now and have never had a problem with it. The other painter I work with refuses to use it and thinks I’m pushing my luck with it. I like the stuff! I always follow up with M600 though.
Here is something funny! A guy I work with uses all plastics add pro at times just to speed up the sealer!
[quote=”Jayson M” post=26177]Since this thread has been Hijacked :p Ryan made good points but I would like to add that energy pro and superior are similar in price.With that being said with a little bit of accelerator and spot and panel it is pretty quick also and looks better,so why use energy pro 😉 Looks like only one user has something good to say about HPC.[/quote]
Yes Jayson I am the minority around here. Andy asked and I gave my opinion. I’m not going to tell him that it’s good stuff if it’s not. I don’t sell the stuff, I just used it a lot for about two years and had good luck with it. I sprayed it over solvent though, so maybe the guys that had bad luck with it were spraying awx???Energy pro is a fast clear but not as fast as hpc 15. No it does not die back but the more I spray it the more I don’t like it. I just Turbo up hs+. Also energy pro (pro air lv) is expensive.