David Clark
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I use a sun gun at least once a day.
The real question is, How many hours did you charge 😛
[b]Jayson M wrote:[/b]
[quote]You know what I disagree,in this day and age why are you guys panel painting??I know some times I do it but very rarely… solid color or not I will blend,when you are flat rate or not the extra time it takes to go into the next panel is minimal and it will save you time and money.I have used lesonal and sikkens and there is no way in north America that lesonal has a better colormatch.It still baffles me why some people will spend 4 hrs tinting to get a perfect butt match when you can blend it out,tint to blend is my last resort.Just my 2 cents.[/quote]My thoughts exactly. I can get away with butt matching from time to time. The only reason I know that is when I edge a fender I do the whole thing then hang it and sometimes it matches. But… I go ahead and blend the door and hood anyways, I get paid to do it SO WHY NOT? IMO, If you show the insurance company that you can pannel paint they will expect it every time. Paint times are already being cut enough. I dont think I could make a living if they keep it up!
Yep! I WOW every job. I also bought some CP440 and the sealer to with it. Its demention line but same thing as martans crossfire.
[b]bondomerchant wrote:[/b]
[quote]its the acme fc 710 clear an the hondas owners freinds beat the glass out with a baseball bat real good freinds huh :wak[/quote]I just bought a gal. of FC710 to shoot on a couple of bumpers. The only reason Im gonna try it is because everyone says good things about it. I hope it doesnt dissapoint!
What clear did you put on that Bondo?
[b]maritimesbob wrote:[/b]
[quote]So you don`t wet sand the primer, everything remains dry? I was a bit confused because I have seen vids where guys wet sand the primer, but isn`t primer porous?I can use the same reducer that I use for the base/clear with the primer? It`s a medium reducer, general purpose.[/quote]
You can use either method. I prefer dry sanding all the way through. Some guys like to wet sand. I think wet sanding is the best way to get a pannel straight though.
I would check your product data sheets on the reducer. All paint Mfg are different in what reducers go with what product.
Thats one sweet little ride! 😉
[b]bondomerchant wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]Underpaid Painter wrote:[/b]
[quote]Those are one of the best tools a painter can have 😉 I have a ton made up, all makes and models. Its taken me quite a few years to get my collection. If I ever leave Im taking them with me :P[/quote]
ya i just got ta remember ta write what they are on the back more often :blush: :blush:[/quote]I have a little Dymo lable maker that I print lables for my cans with. I just print an extra one and stick it to the back of the spray out card.
Those are one of the best tools a painter can have 😉 I have a ton made up, all makes and models. Its taken me quite a few years to get my collection. If I ever leave Im taking them with me 😛
Paint code WA926L silver birch? Use standard with half of the U7222 left out. Not sure what that would be in M.S. Its a brownish gold toner. It matches alot better that way. 😉
Was this an insurance claim? We had a rollover envoy come in and we only fixed half of the damage because the customer cashed out and only wanted it to look “Better” than what it did. :wak
I like painting on rainy days! Alot less dirt in the air. 😉
start turning your fluid in an i bet you solve 90% of that problem we both shoot pretty much the same brand of paint so im guessing youve got ur fluid way 2 far open for our base i do most of mine with an RP 1.3 what kinda gun you using for ur base??? maybey i can help ya some on this one cuz i used ta have the same problem till i figured a few trick out in our system 😉 for starters our base dont like being shot fat period . also you will get alot less dirt in it if ya crank that fluid in an run the fan wide open 😉 i set my gun up completly different for my base than my clear if your not changing your setup i can see why your fighting that color feel free ta ask me an hopefully we can cure whats been kicking ya 😉 urs truely BONDO :cheers[/quote]
Ya know what! Thats funny you mention turning the fluid in. I just painted another honda (differnt color) but it was giving me the same fit as the the other. I use a Sata 3000 HVLP 1.3 for my base. I was running it 2.5 turns out just like I did with my 2000. I realized the threads were different between the two. So… I turned it in 1 turn, switched to a slower stabilizer (BS10), used faster strokes and it turned out much better! Thanks for the advice Bondo! I have other issues that I have to deal with at times too though :S I always have problems with my sealer and base drifting onto ajacent pannels. Rep always says no one else has that problem :silly:
I dont have much trouble with my blends. But.. I do have trouble with my variants matching whats on the car. I also fight Honda NH658P. No matter what I do it mottles and streaks like crazy. I have tried different guns, air pressure, spray speed and distance. NOTHING WORKS! I just have to send it out like that. I feel like crap for doing it but I have no choice 👿