David Clark
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I used Ultra 7000 for about ten years. I liked well, its a good product. The clears are fast and glossy and are very easy spray. I have never used AWX. I think the primer is one of the best on the market.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=22591]THe universal is much more user friendly than energy pro,if you use accelerator in the universal is very fast for quick jobs.Lesonal glamour clear is awesome for completes and one of the nicest clears in the akzo lineup.[/quote]
Hey Jayson, on the energy pro, what do you mean by not being as user friendly? I have some issues with the clear but would like to hear what you have to say about it before I give my opinion.
We recently swiched from pro air to Sikkens energy pro 250. It works very well in a cross flow booth, has three activators. Spot pannel, med and slow. It seems to buff well. You could give that a try. The only draw back is its hard to do a large job with it. Its pretty fast stuff.
I have used alot of HPC15 and had good luck with it. I have been using Energy Pro 250, Its alot like HPC speed wise with the spot and pannel activator. It seems to have a little more peel to it but it seems to hold a good gloss.
We now have a heat and air make up on the booth. I sparayed a door with HS+ and it seemed nice. I used standard hardner and med activator. I wish I could of used the rapid activator wth it instead. It looked nice but was pretty slow to dry even with heat. I think I will like it on the big jobs though. I would also like to try the lesonal glamour. I may see if the boss man wants to get some. Im sure he would like the cost of it compared to HS+. I have spayed nothing but Pro Air for the last 7 months coming from sherwin williams. After spraying the energy Pro I have no desire to use Pro air anymore.
Yep still using the LPH400 1.4 silver cap. I also have a 3000 1.3 hvlp, a 2000 1.3 hvlp. I dont like those two guns for clear. Too slow. I tried a 3000 RP with a 1.3 and thought my LPH worked better. I would like to try a w400lv or a tekna. That may help too. What would you recommend using for spraying ACIII and HS+?
Well Im just hoping I can try the ACIII and HS+ so I can get my own opinion of it. Also, Im not one to stack on the coats wet with no flash time then clear. I have seen this done so that could be a problem. I will need a clear thats slow and looks good for big jobs that can be baked for 40 min or so then come out and be reassembled shortly after. I also need a fast air dry clear for mirrors, moldings, and bunper covers that is fast and still looks good. Im just not that crazy about pro air. It takes me 3 coats to get it to look deep so I go thru a lot of clear per job. Also it seems to fisheye easy. the only way I can keep it from doing it is to add a few drops of lesonal accelerator.???
[quote=”Jayson M” post=20867]NO you can’t put superior clear over solvent,your rep is wrong.Don’t bother switching clears,when you have your booth working get some ACIII for fast jobs and HS+ for completes.Energy pro is not your answer.When you change out the hardener in energy pro it slows it down and it is nicer to spray.[/quote]
We should be getting the air makeup installed sometime next week. Its at the shop just not set up yet. They swiched from ACIII and HS+ to pro air before I got there. I guess they were having problems with it no drying and lots of die back. Keep in mind that its an autobody toolmart cross flow booth with no heat. Thats why they went to the pro air. I personally want to try ACIII but I think they are just a little shy to use it agian. For some reason the rep wants to bring in energy pro. So why is the ACIII and HS+ a better route to go vs the Energy Pro? We are also getting a prep station next week. Its not heated so we will need a clear for air dry things too.
I work at an independent shop and am on comission. I have been in the trade for 10 yrs and mostly painted. Now I do combo work and average around 65-70 hrs a week in a 40 hr work week.
Our Tech rep was out today putting in our new mixing system. He is going to sent out some Energy Pro for us to try in place of lesonal pro air. I thought it was a clear to go over water not solvent but he said its ok and he also said we can put sup 250 over solvent too? What do you guys think? Also, whats the reason for using the sup 250 hardner in the energy pro clear?
[quote=”jimmo” post=20469]I’m not that up on what the prices are for booths so no idea’r there…
Spraying waterborne in it is very different, the downdraft I have with the make up unit keeps it a bit warmer when spraying and increases drying time quite a bit with the RM Onyx. I pretty well have to use the blowers in this booth or I’m waiting forever for the water to dry. Put a drip in the first clear job to but at least I was able to use the temperature difference as my excuse….still didn’t get me out of polishing tho..
it does seem to move a lot of air, overspray gets sucked away quicker then in my older downdraft. I don’t have a way to adjust the cabin pressure on this booth and it seems to suck everything in when I open the door, would be good if I could figure something out there.[/quote]
Hey Jimmo, We have a similar booth that is all neg pressure. We have a switch inside the booth to turn it off before we come out so its not sucking in dust when the door gets opened.
What clear are you using? What do you mean by cant get it to dry? The clear or primer?
I have not used HPC21 but I have sprayed many gallons of HPC15. A few quetions for you. Are you a baking this clear? What temp are you spraying at? Have you had your C.A.H tested? You may try opening the booth door before you leave to let the gasses excape. This clear should not be sprayed in conditions over 90 deg, expecially on horizontal surfaces. What reducer are you putting in it?
So are you guys using the tekna for clear also? We spray Pro Air but should be going to ACIII when we get heat on the booth. My LPH400 works good but I would like to try the tekna or a W400LV or even the 4000RP when its avalable here. I just use a 3000 or 2000 HVLP since its still solvent base. One problen I get with the pro air is that it dry sprays with a slow hvlp. I need a little more speed out of the gun.
I have had the chance to use the new 4000 HVLP 1.4. I sparyed two covers in and a bedside in autobase plus, one with my 3000 HVLP 1.3 and the other with the 4000, They sprayed real similar, only the 4000 atomized a toch better and at a lower pressure than my 3000. My clear looked better over the job done with the 4000. I used the 4000 for clear (Pro air) and it is slow but it does a good job. I just cant get my 3000 to spray clear at all so I didnt even try. I used a 3000 RP 1.3 and I thought the 4000 HVLP worked better for me. Still not as good as my LPH400LV4 but the 4000 HLVP is a nice gun.