David Clark
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I know what youre talking about. I use to use crystal rags. If the rag was about used up the ends will fray and little fragments will fall off or catch on a rough bend edge. To me it looks like tiny pieces of lint or strings. Most likely its from the tack cloth and not your wipedown rag. I spent a lot of time trying to figure out this problem and the tack cloth is what I narrowed it down to.
I wouldnt want to fix it either. Insurance adjusters can be just plain dumb sometimes. It might get you black balled but I would get the customer envolved and let them know what kind of a repair their insurance company is trying to give them.
Well Jayson, heat makeup is on the way for the booth and I think we will be going back to ACIII. I will take your word for it. Yes I use the spot activator and its still not as fast as sherwin. Trust me, I would not say colorbuild is slower if it were not true. I do like a lot of things about sikkens but the primer is just not one of them. As for the color match…I never said sherwin was better, I just said that so far it seems about the same. Im sure there are going to be colors from both lines that suck and some that are spot on. Believe me, I fought more than a few colors with sherwin but most are blendable. One thing I will say about sikkens is that I love how the base sprays and flashes. I also like the sealer better than sherwin.;)
I used sherwin for about 10 years before switching jobs. (I spray Sikkens now) Sherwin has some really great products. I sure miss using it. The primer is hands down superior to sikkens and the clears are smoking fast compaired to sikkens also. I had a few colors that were a real bear to match but for the most part its good. I have found that its no different than sikkens as far as color goes. Sikkens does cover a little better and flashes faster. I like sherwins formula express mixing program WAY better than sikkens mixit system. After spraying sikkens for the last three months, I have gotten use to it but if I had the choice to go back to sherwin I would. I feel that they have made a lot of big changes in the last few years. Both are good products…there are just going to be trade offs with any brand.
So I take it that the RP is now approved for use in the U.S.? Did Sata supply a compliance certification with the gun?
What tip size? Whats the speed like compared to the 3000? What air pressure you shooting with? I know….lots of questions;)
Thanks Ben.
Can superior 250 or the energy pro be used over solvent?
Ryan, do you know off hand what hardner or reducer if any the glamor takes? Mix ratio?
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=18235]See if they can get Lesonal Glamour or Autoclear PC. The PC should be out now or getting ready to come out. I have heard good things about it.[/quote]
Thanks Ryan, next time I see a rep I will ask about the Autoclear PC. As for the lesonal glamor…is it a fast clear, does it need to be baked? Speed is not a real big deal with me but the other painter wants everything to be dry yesterday! I would like the glamour if it looks good, holds a gloss and can be baked for 30-40 min and be taken out of the booth.Ok guys, heres the deal. As of right now Im spraying in a non heated semi down draft autobody toolmart booth. We are using Pro Air. On the bigger jobs it hard to get around a vehicle without getting a dry line. On smaller jobs it seems to work well other that it dies back a few days later? It could be a C.A.S. problem, Im not sure. I am using an LPH400 1.4. Its a little slow but its all I have other than my CVI and a 3000hvlp. In a few moths we will be putting a heat and bake mode make up on it. I have the choice of using ACIII, HS+, and the Pro Air. Just wanted to get some input on whats best. We are on ABP so sup.250 wont work,unless its the new stuff thats being tested.
I say acme all the way guys!:rofl Hey Ryan, Could you post a PDS for the Pro Air?
Thanks Ryan, I have been having better luck with it. I started leaving the reducer out of it. When i first started my new job the other painter said they always reduce it with fast HP reducer and they even put accelerator in it. I found out real quick that it wont work for me that way. I somtimes mix it 50-50 slow and fast. I would like to spray it with the tekna or the w400lv. I have used my cvi to spray it but get better results with my lph400.
Hey Ryan, what hardner are you using and are you reducing at all?
One of the major things IMO when looking at a booth is the availlablitiy of off the shelf parts in case of a break down. I used a Spraybake for many years. There is a problem with the Gen 4 models corntrol pannel. There is no way of fixing this problem due to the fact that spraybake is out of business. So any mechanical of electronic that is put on a booth should be easy to get from a local electric or HVAC company.