Rob
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I sprayed with that stuff over water basecoat once on a training day (only time ive been inside a booth) it went on nice but died back a little after bake.
I’m still on solvent basecoat and usually spray at around 26-29 psi, everything wide open on the gun.
Cheers
I haven’t used mine for basecoat but yeah should be good for it, I use a wbx 1.4 for basecoat at the moment.
Is it 0200 that your using at work?
Nice one andy t, good to see you back in your old job. Red alot of your posts (I like reading stuff posted by people in the uk).
I really like the wbx for basecoat but still on solvent and don’t really do the kind of work that you do so haven’t felt the need to find something else but defo prefer satas for clear and solid 2k’s while we have this nice weather.
Cheers
I don’t know about the base coat your using so can’t really comment on that. I know it probably doesn’t matter now but my 3000 has just under 3 turns to be wide open and the ws 400 has around 6.5.
What max meyer clear are you using 0200? what you did with your sata try the same thing with your iwata, slightly under aired about 1.7 bar like you said previously but close and fast. I can get an amazing finish with my supernova and 0200. I find the iwata works well being a little closer than the sata. What set up do you have in your ws400? I have a 1.3 hd.
Do you use 8000 hardner? try slowing it down a bit maybe with some 6000 or even just using 6000 instead of 8, Ive mixed some 9080 (all from same manufacturer and compatable) with 8000 before now with excellent results. P.S I’m from the uk too.
Cheers
I’ve used one called speeder on the odd occasion not mixed it with my hardener just put a few drops in when I mix, never had a problem with it but try not use it things like that if I can help it. What I do find is when I do a full cab and use a slower activator the paint is always harder in the morning than it is when I use a fast activator if I’m doing a load of parts, even in the condition you describ e, so as daft as it may seem it maybe worth trying a slowing your hardener abit.
To hating painting, when you put the cap in the top of the pps cup push your finger up through bottom of the outer cup to compress the liner a bit then when you take the cap out it doesnt blow paint out.
You probably know to buy the biggest compressor you can get for your budget but I highly recommend getting an electric da, then you only need a compressor big enough to run a gun, the mirka ceros is a brilliant bit of kit.
Yes you will have to scratch it up. If your doing the whole car white I’d da it all (or scotch it if the finish is flat enough) mask a few millimeters away from where you want you line then do the fine lining last so that you can get it off first, de-mask, tac and then clear the whole thing. As already said its important to get the fine line tape off at the right time so maybe test it first just to get a feel for it.
Cheers
Thanks guys for answering. I bit the bullet on a 4000rp.
Cheers
Ayup fellas, thanks for your replies. I know what you mean about the 3000, you can soon wet a panel with it. Does the 4000 rp spray thicker clears as well or if not better than the 3000?
Cheers
Ok, thanks for answering. Can I just ask another question without starting a new topic, is the 4000 rp really a better gun than the 3000 with regard to atomization? Would you say its better with thicker clears?
Cheers
I’ve got a snap on da at home but prefer the mirka one I use at work, both fine orbit. To be honest if I could go back and buy myself one again I would go for a mirka.
I could, and most probably will be wrong but it sounds like water or moisture in your air line. Why your only noticing it with a uhs clear i dont know but try a disposable air line water trap or opening your air line up and hanging it some where warm and dry over night before you paint.
I had what I thought was solvent pop in a 3-1 clear but it turned out to be water, compressor sweeting. Haven’t noticed it with 2-1 ms clear but spray a 3-1 hs clear and its very noticable, only up close mind but i can still see it under electric light. like I say I could be and probably am wrong.
I had this happen once quite a long time ago when I had a bit less experience than I do now, but I am by no means an expert and someone else will no doubt give you some good advice.
Could be a couple of things, make sure your using a good qualitly primer not cheap spanish stuff like I did. You may be overwetting your basecoat and also try priming a slightly bigger area and start to sand the primer in between the repair and the primer edge to feather the primer out, don’t feather it in from the edge to the repair. Hope that makes sense??
Cheers for replying, Glad your furniture turned out ok. But sorry my question was for the op Jason28.
Cheers