Don Wedor
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ya yrue i had a Semi Down draft by me go for $1200 was single phase and had two 24″ fans and 14 lights there are deals to be had thats for sure
aww man im goin to miss that cat to. sorry for your loss
[quote=”nick@dunsdale” post=19976][quote=”Wydir” post=19676]So I hooked it up and ran it from empty to 150psi took 8min
Then I hooked a SATA 3000 RP to it and no problems, Comp didnt even know it was there,
so then I got out my Compressor Killer AKA Snapon 7″ Angle polisher Muhhaaahaha and ……… Comp tried to defeat it but lost out. Pulled it right down (Bummer) the polisher says it only uses 15cfm @ 90 PSI and comp was to put out 19 CFM @ 100.I will have to see if I can find out the actual CFM Usage of this polisher (yes it is old)
was going to get an electric buffer anyway.
all in all it was better than what I had and its as loud as any normal air comp.
so what did I learn :teach
1. Dont expect nice things
2. $1700.00 is considered a cheap compressor
3. Pneumatic Angle Polisher is not the way to go
4. Go Big
5. Where Theres a Will, Theres a Relative[/quote]All air polishers always seem to be the same, they claim to use low cfm but they can always draw down a compressor pretty damn quick, an air grinder using a flap disc will draw it down just as quick.
In the past i have looked at compressors, and said right that one on paper will supposedly do the job.
Then i pick model a couple of steps up.
And yes $1500 is very cheap for a compressor, but that said you guy’s can buy levi jeans for under $40.00 and we can pay $90.00 lol
some rating explanations as found below
[b]CFM[/b] (Cubic Feet per Minute) is the imperial method of describing the volume flow rate of compressed air. It must be defined further to take account of pressure, temperature and relative humidity – see below.
[b]ICFM[/b] (Inlet CFM) rating is used to measure air flow in CFM (ft3/min) as it enters the air compressor intake .
[b]ACFM[/b] (Actual CFM) rating is used to measure air flow in CFM at some reference point at local conditions. This is the actual volume flow rate in the pipework after the compressor.
[b]FAD[/b] (Free Air Delivery) (f.a.d) is the actual quantity of compressed air at the discharge of the compressor. The units for FAD are CFM in the imperial system and l/min in the SI system. The units are measured according the ambient inlet standard conditions ISO 1217 – 1 bar abs and 20oC.
1 m3/min (f.a.d) = 1000 liter/min (f.a.d) = 1000 dm3/min (f.a.d) = 16.7 l/s (f.a.d) = 16.7 dm3/s (f.a.d) = 35.26 ft3/min (f.a.d)[b]ANR[/b] (Atmosphere Normale de Reference) is quantity of air at conditions 1.01325 bar absolute, 20oC and 65% RH (Relative Humidity).
SCFM (Standard CFM) is the flow in CFM measured at some reference point but converted back to standard or normal air conditions (Standard Reference Atmosphere) 14.4 psia, 80oF and 60% RH (Relative Humidity).
[b]nl/min[/b] is the flow in l/min measured at some reference point but converted to standard or normal air conditions 1.01325 bar absolute, 0oC and 0% RH (Relative Humidity).
[b]ISO 1217[/b]
standard reference ambient conditions – temperature 20oC, pressure 1 bar abs, relative humidity 0%, cooling air/water 20oC, and working pressure at outlet 7 bar absolute.[/quote]In hind sight I should of bought This Comp instead was 1k more http://www.eatoncompressor.com/catalog/item/504747/6980263.htm
and has the rating to run my polisher full out but like I said I will get a electric polisher and it will be fine for me for a few years then I can upgrade to the 10hp.[quote=”bobwires” post=19975][quote=”Wydir” post=19873]Ok here is an Amp draw from 0PSI to 120PSI then the Comp Unloads, Then I close the unloader and it goes from 120PSI to 150PSI and shuts off total time is around 6 min as you can see at the bottom of the Graph. Again this is an 80 gallon tank
Startup Amps were 53
Running amps loaded was between 24-27 (while loaded Amp draw Raises as Pressure Rises ) <- well duh right lolAll Tests were done with A FLUKE 289 True RMS Multimeter and a FLUKE i400 AC Amp Clamp (Just in case you can't figure out why the side thats for the Amps is actually in Vac, thats how it is get over it)
I still havent done any tool tests as for running time but I will get there.
[IMG]http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc277/Dwydir/PolarAirAmpDraw.jpg[/IMG][/quote]
They have a feature where the larger motors have variable rpm based on load. Do you know any more about that?[/quote]
All the Compressors that have a VFD on them are Rotary Screw Compressors we have these at work its a 200 hp two stage rotary screw this comp was around $164,000 output claim is 894CFM @ 125PSI
[IMG]http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc277/Dwydir/IMG00086-20100919-1449.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc277/Dwydir/IMG00137-20101006-1829.jpg[/IMG]
well theres all your parts needed right there ……
all off the same car cant beat that with a stick
all so remember metal shrinks when its cold and expands when heated so your brake problem maybe temp related (Duh right) anyway that other car has all the parts heck give the guy 300.00(ya never know) for the whole car and use what ya need
Im in wisconsin I could help ya if you were closer
ok, So a valve cover gasket is an easy fix, Cost around $20-$50 maybe less. You will get two in the kit so just do both. The door will be fine for ahwile as long as you keep the water away from it.
You can buy a universal antenna for like 10.00 from any parts store.And who need brakes? K so maybe they are needed. Most disc brake jobs for the DIY will cost 75-100 for the pads and rotors
For the exhaust, The last time I did them on my mustang it cost me $75 for all the new hangers from a late model parts supplier these were Ford parts, So I would think you could get aftermarket ones for half that.The windshield you could get a quote from an auto glass company they do good work and its fairly cheap. But it will depend on the damage.
Looks good. You can only get better as long as you remember your mistakes and not repeat them
Ya I here ya, Have to get filter elements replaced more often in your respirator
To bad they couldn’t make it more healthier for us.
Yes that will run your gun pretty well with no problems
I used a 1.6 hp Compressor with a SATA minijet 4 with no problems the spec sheet says this needs 29PSI and 4.1CFM of air
Iwata says yours need 13-14 PSI and 2.1CFM this is a LVLP gun (which complies with HVLP no problem
Just keep in mind that FAD Free Air Delivery is at 0PSI
Its not Water thats where it gets ya, Its an Ether/Alcohol/Water mix
hmm never got a t-shirt only product last stuff I got was a bunch of delfleet stuff Primer/color/clear a gallon of each and all reducers and hardeners just to try out I even got to pick the color
by me I have the choice between Martian Senour and PPG
yep looks great just put the grill in and put the Front wheel back on to that spare just isnt doing it
Ok here is an Amp draw from 0PSI to 120PSI then the Comp Unloads, Then I close the unloader and it goes from 120PSI to 150PSI and shuts off total time is around 6 min as you can see at the bottom of the Graph. Again this is an 80 gallon tank
Startup Amps were 53
Running amps loaded was between 24-27 (while loaded Amp draw Raises as Pressure Rises ) <- well duh right lolAll Tests were done with A FLUKE 289 True RMS Multimeter and a FLUKE i400 AC Amp Clamp (Just in case you can't figure out why the side thats for the Amps is actually in Vac, thats how it is get over it)
I still havent done any tool tests as for running time but I will get there.
[IMG]http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc277/Dwydir/PolarAirAmpDraw.jpg[/IMG]
Well now I feel bad for all you Sikkens users because my PPG jobber helps me out all the time and gives me demo stuff quite often.
:agree you could have a good used door for about $150.00 maybe less