Don Wedor
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:agree Doright is exactly right Thanks Doright +1 karma ! ( I wasn’t thinking ) :chair
Your best bet in that case is to find a door the color you need at a local junkyard if they dont have it the network they are in may have it and get it shipped for free to the yard closest to you , I have done this many times but somehow it slipped my mind ( That way you can use the old door for practice )
I use Fast orange hand cleaner works good no problems yet with it ( I keep my Cherry Blossom and Alomond soap at home hahaha )
To tell you the truth tho, I have never heard of anyone having these kinds of problems. Im sure its out there, but I have no experience with it.
Joe I think you have gone and takin this post way out of context
this has nothing to do with your shop, How much you pay them, Or who pays the bills its just about the public relations of the sikkens rep.
I’m sure your an outstanding guy and we are all here to make a living and not lose money.
Well I never said the SHOP had to give out there materials for free. This whole post is about getting free materials from the JOBBER and going to the painter
It seems that joe gets the free stuff from the jobber and keeps it ( but maybe not I Don’t know ) , Thats the only sharing part I was talking about, And as joe said he helps them out by selling to them at cost, So thats a great thing, saves the painter some cash to.
So if the painter gets a lil free mats from the jobber and then can buy the rest at cost its a win – win
On a side note I bet the painters at joes place get free stuff he doesn’t even know about, Its not like you ask the boss to ask the rep about hooking them up with some color. the reps give out stuff all the time its called PR work. keeps everyone happy , and if your reps dont do it, They are the greedy ones
well I guess it depends on where you live or maybe someone around you has a gun , how about going to the local bodyshop and asking about renting the booth and a gun?
I have seen the 2k spray can clears but I have never used them.
[quote=”Joe@FCAB” post=19784]The shop pays the materials bills not you, why do you think you deserve free materials? You arent generating the business, the shop is! None of my painters get free materials, I will sell them anything the need at cost, but until they are paying the paint bill they will not get free materials. If I chose to give them any free materials I get that is my choice. Just pay for what you use and all will be fine. Nothing is free in life..[/quote]
Sorry but if the painters did a shitty job on the cars the shop would generate no buisness.
So unless your painters are just there to put shop supplies away and mow the lawn, And you yourself do all the work, then yes you should act like that. But I assume they do the work, And do it well enough that you have repeat work and a good reputation and thats what brings in Buisness.
Its a team effort and you should share the “fringe benifits” that come from the vendors, And im not saying every time “Joe or Jim” wants to paint something you give him free paint either.
but if you get some supplies to test out maybe divide it up somehow give them a pint of it or quart , Maybe the rep from the jobber is willing to give the painters a 50-75% discount on color and then hardener at cost , Its something you could figure out with the employees,Just dont be Greedy
you will have to paint the whole door no doubt, And about the paint , Rattle cans are not a good product to use for a repair you want to last, And the finish wont even be close ,
The other repair more than likley cracked already due to the pop rivets, As that piece should of been welded back in place.
and why do you want to use rattle cans so much? Lack of compressor and paint guns?
maybe you can grind off the old work including your fist attempt,
Take it to someone with a welder and have the piece welded in.
Then you can use filler to build it up and shape back in to place.
Then take in for primer/paint/clear and have a job that will last
you will have saved yourself some cash and would have learned something in the proccessI have done a job just like that and did it just like Mocoke said, just have to transfer the hardware to the new hood job is cake, and hood is prolly going to come finished to, So no painting
just have to put the decals back on
To fix it you will grind/sand off the old filler completely and recoat with filler sand to shape then primer/base/clear, And since you have done bodywork before this should be no different than the first time ( althought I dont know what you did the first time ) This is a good learning job, If you really want to learn , You will have to take care of it pretty soon before the metal starts to oxidize(within a month or two the longer you wait the more surface rust viens you will have to deal with) then you will need to sandblast (more likely spot blast) the rust that forms to give you a good clean surface to start with.
And after you get the door finished, Next on the todo list is maybe get a new door latch. As to keep you from doing this again.
ya looks like filler to me metal is not white or light colored and since it has been repaired before thats a almost 99% chance that its body filler I dont know anyone who could straighten metal that good to put base and clear back on and be that smooth
but ya wait till its warmer grind it all down and start over, Just did a job like that on a 05 Caddy last fall whole dang quarter was complete filler didnt know it was there when we bought it.
but it was a good weekend project
[IMG]http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc277/Dwydir/cadillacrear.jpg[/IMG]looks great :clappy
:agree I bought the biggest Compressor I could afford it is 100 times nicer than my old craftsman 1.6hp 33 gal and for a one man show in the back yard this one will do the job.
Im still happy with my purchase dont get me wrong
But if everything takes off I will need to buy a different compressor(or a second one):agree there is no set conversion but im going off of the tool air consumption it has both ratings side by side CFM and SCFM and thats My Point and We are Talking CFM VS SCFM no where did I mention ACFM its like your thinking apples, pears, and bannanas
I could care less if it was made at your house ( unless you made crappy tools hahaha )
I am just saying if you need to buy a compressor to run all your tools you need to know what to buy without Under Sizing ( I to thought it was a very close Conversion) and from my test with air tools I was way wrong
Q1 = Q2(p2/p1)(T1/T2), this is the formula to get CFM to SCFM
Q1 is scfm of compressor, Q2 is cfm of tools/system, p2 is operating pressure of tools/system in absolute (psig + 14.7), p1 is inlet pressure to compressor (14.7 psia), T1 is temperature of air at inlet in rankine (fahrenheit + 460), T2 is temperature of air at tool/system in rankine. your case if temperature is constant:T1 = T2
Q1=3.4(90+14.7/14.7) = 24.2 scfmthis is what I found to show you so you can do some math
Oh and some of the tools are listed in SCFM to thats why the number is so high do you really think it takes 25 CFM to run a Sander?
Basiclly from what i have seen online is the better companies will rate there tools and compressors in SCFM so you can figure out what size you will need just
DO NOT THINK THAT SCFM IS THE SAME AS CFM (this is where I Screwed Up)I guess I tried to explain but its worthless you all know how it is and when you buy your CFM compressor it will work and produce CFM
Im sorry but your Dead wrong thats why its such a problem everybodies brain washed and when the true math comes out no one can handle it do the math and you will see
my snapon air polisher is rated at 4.8 CFM if your knowledge was correct my compressor would be able to handle it no problem
but this is how it is 4.8CFM is 4.8 x 7.711764 = 34.16 SCFM its right there on the snapon site look it up they give both ratings side by side
this is Why this is such a big problem Because they Interchange the CFM rating with the SCFM rating and its Not as close as you believe
from Snap on website
Product Specifications
Stock # AT450BP
Name Polisher, Air, Heavy Duty, Angle, 7″
Price** $321.30
Country Of Origin China
Vibration Level, m/s² <2.5
Rated Power, hp (kW) 1 (.74)
Weight, lbs. (kg) 5.5 (2.5)
Length, inches (mm) 15.7 (400)
Sound Level dBa Pressure 84
Description 7" Angle Polisher
Recommended Air Pressure, psig (kPa) 90 (620)
Air Consumption, free speed, cfm (scfm) [l/min] 4.8 (34) [136]
Air Consumption, working, cfm (scfm) [l/min] 4.3 (31) [121.8]
Horsepower, HP 1.0
Free Speed, RPM 5,100
Sound Level, free speed, dBa 84
Disc Size, Dia., inches (mm) 7 (177)
Spindle Thread, inches 5/8"-11 UNC
Air Inlet Thread Size 1/4"-18 NPT
Recommended Hose Size, inches (mm) 3/8 (10) ID Min.
Overall Length, inches (mm) 15.75 (410)
Height, inches (mm) 4 (102)
Spanner Wrench (opt.) AT450-50
Replacement Pad/Disc AT450-46H