Daryl

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Viewing 8 posts - 76 through 83 (of 83 total)
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  • November 6, 2012 at 12:23 am #38919

    Thats the 498 that’s 4:1. The 465 is 2:1:20%.

    November 5, 2012 at 12:37 am #38911

    The truck was straight. The hood had quite a few hail dents and a door had been opened on the rear extended cab. I know pictures don’t show everything but here was the final result. The first pic is the rear door that had a crease in it.

    [IMG]http://i633.photobucket.com/albums/uu56/xtremekustomz/kp4.jpg[/IMG]

    [IMG]http://i633.photobucket.com/albums/uu56/xtremekustomz/kp1.jpg[/IMG]

    [IMG]http://i633.photobucket.com/albums/uu56/xtremekustomz/kp2.jpg[/IMG]

    [IMG]http://i633.photobucket.com/albums/uu56/xtremekustomz/kp6.jpg[/IMG]

    November 5, 2012 at 12:32 am #38910

    That’s quite possible. I normally use Metal glaze over the rage gold after 80 grit and then go over that with 220. I did a few areas that way and I don’t think those areas are showing through.

    November 5, 2012 at 12:16 am #38908

    Filler was straight to metal. I blocked it with 80 grit on a long block. After that I ran over it with some 220 on the block and featheredged the surrounding areas with 220 on the da. I primed with the 2k primer and blocked with 220, primed again, blocked with 220 and final primer. Everything was straight. Some of the repair areas seem to have lost gloss. It’s not that they aren’t straight. I may not have allowed enough flash time between coats of primer. I do remember when I was spraying it was getting late in the evening and may have rushed the final coat. I thought for sure after a few days of drying it would have cured though. Especially after sitting in the sun.

    November 4, 2012 at 11:35 pm #38904

    Filler used was Rage Gold sanded down with 80 then went over with 220 on DA. Primer used was nason 2k. Primed and guide coated twice. Filler was done one day. Priming 1 to 2 days later. 1 day for primer to cure before between guide coats and final wet sanding with 500. 2 more days before actually spraying. Should have been enough time for everything to shrink and cure I would think. The outside temps were in the 80’s and I even let the truck sit in the sun for a whole day before final sanding. Never used that Nason primer either though. Basecoat was chromabase and clear was Zolatone Euro clear. I’ve never had anything else do this which led me to believe it was the clear. What reasons could it be for this to happen after 2+ months?

    I would say there was 15 minutes between each basecoat as well. I sprayed 2 coats. It was dull before applying clear. Application of clear was 3 coats with roughly 15 minutes between each coat as well. It was tacky but did not string.

    November 4, 2012 at 10:28 pm #38902

    Well I know it’s going to have trash in it because the booth that I’m able to use isn’t the greatest. I want a show quality finish on it anyway so I’m expecting to cut and buff. Also have a guy bringing me a truck that wants a show quality finish on it in a few months. He is having it bagged, body dropped, door handles shaved and bed shaved right now. This is just a hobby of mine but really want to try some new products. I did a friends truck a few months back and when he got it back it was perfect. After about 2 months I guess the clear has started to die back and you can see the areas where small dents have been repaired. The truck is black. I didn’t have that issue when I did mine but I’m sure it had to do with the cheap clear we used.

    November 4, 2012 at 9:02 pm #38900

    If I use Spies or Dupont I’m going to use spies basecoat. If I use Glasurit I’m using Diamont. My supplier doesn’t mix Glasurit paint. I can order it online but I would rather just get it mixed in case I need more I can just run by and get it.

    November 4, 2012 at 8:03 pm #38898

    Basically I’m looking for the best durability when it comes to the elements combined with price, looks and how far it will go. I’m going to be spraying my extended cab silverado and just doing some homework. I haven’t used anything any higher end than the 7900s. I’ve even looked at the Glasurit 923-255. I guess I could get any Glasurit clear from the supplier if there was one better looking or more suited for crossdraft. I’d rather have something that doesn’t solvent pop as well and I know alot of it has to do with application and air flow.

Viewing 8 posts - 76 through 83 (of 83 total)