zarbat007
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Don’t think its applying too many of the product.
They started appearing after first coat and the spray can doesn’t spray it heavy.
Like stone suggested, might be solvents in clear. I’m so not going to clear the BMW headlights until I figure this out. They are close to $500 each! :chair
Here is the clear I used. I’ve had it for 2 years now:
http://www.u-pol.com/product-cat/118/clear%231%E2%84%A2-high-gloss-clear-coat.htm
http://www.u-pol.com/datasheets/tds/CLEAR1-TDS-US.pdfPS: I searched “meyer 0200” and looks like its mostly sold in UK, and its urethane clear coat, not the same as the spray can stuff.
I tried to clear a headlight from a Kia that is to be scrapped, but
it looks like some sort of reaction happened. No clue what caused it.Here is what I did:
Cleaned the headlight with SEM plastic cleaner, sanded with 800 grit.
Sprayed U-POL #1 clear (spray can clear- it was just a test so I used this clear).
Waited 10 mins, sprayed another coat.From 6 feet, it looks great. But when you look closely at headlight, you’ll see some sort of reaction. I see random straight lines and a few that look like cracks.
But the clear is [b]not[/b][u][/u] wrinkled or lifting.Any ideas? :blink:
Hi ODG! :cheers
Its not that bad, but IMO it can be sanded and refinished.
I don’t really want an aftermarket bumper on a BMW. Most of them have crappy fitment. :huntI know of a few companies that sell PP M5 bumpers with decent quality and fitment, but they are in US and I like the face-lifted non-M bumper better (for 5-series).
Amazing! :rock
So if I want to clear the headlights from my 2002 530i, all I have to do is sand with 800 grit, clean with plastic cleaner, and clear.
I was thinking about using Nason Glamor clear to do this, it is to mixed with reducer. (3:1:10% I think?).
Either way wouldn’t the solvent from clear (any clear) react with the plastic lens?
Reason I ask is because there was this customer who used brake parts cleaner ( :S ) on his headlights and it kinda melted the plastic lens! Wouldn’t the solvents from clear do this?Thanks Ryan.
Not sure what material the bumper is, but bumper guard trims are ABS+PC.
Thanks again for the reply! I’ll sand with 400 anyway to leave a smoother surface for adhesion promoter and primer. The less coat build up the better!
Thanks again. :cheers
Serge: Great video! It actually motivated me to start the bumper already! (Especially spraying BC & CC part! My favorite part :pcorn: ).
I’ve been telling myself to do it next year, now I’m gonna get to it next week! :cheersThanks for reply Ryan.
So:
220 grit to remove rock chips
400 wet-sanding bare plastic to remove the hairness
R-M adhesion promoter
2K primer, 800 grit, BC and CC…Is it ok to spray 2k primer over P400 grit? Is that enough for 2K to “bite” into?
Ah, good to know.
Thanks! :cheer:Do you guys spray adhesion promoter before clear-coating the headlights?
Huh I replied in morning, where did it go? :blink:
Thanks all for reply. Since the water may have been entrapped behind the door, there is a really good chance it has been rusted through. So as Han mentioned, a new door might be needed.
This is a 2001 BMW 530i i was considering buying, but with the asking price and the few attention the body needs, its not worth it to me, especially if it needs a new door.
[b]jimmo wrote:[/b]
[quote]ya, you could be right stone. I`d be interested in knowing if guys up here might still be able to order from the U.S in non-mandated area`s to get there high-voc fix. BTW I posted an initial review on Onxy [url=http://www.autobodyrepairwork.com/2010/04/14/waterbone-conversion-changeover/]here[/url]. If I come across any problems worth noting I`ll make a post about it, but so far so good.[/quote]I don’t see any review. :whistle:
Did you just spray it? :cheer:
If the putty has been there for 30 minutes that’s enough time to be ready for primer.
You probably used spray can primers, they do not have high build like 2K primers.
You gotta apply multiple layers to get a decent coverage and whenever you spray a bit of primer shrinks into the bondo/putty.If I were you I’d get R-M Polyuroxyy or SEM Metal-Lock. They are 2k/epoxy hybrid.
Filling of 2K with corrosion resistance of epoxy.BTW are you a hobbyist? Are you going to paint this yourself? Seems like you are working in a shop.
Let us know how you like the Onyx Jimmo. :woohoo:
How it sands, how fast it flashes? And what tip are you using.
Just wondering, why didn’t you go for 90-Line?
What kind of primer are you using?