zarbat007
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The hair dryer does have a screen on back.
I set the shop heat to 20, but I turned it off 10 minutes before spraying to avoid the heater fan blowing dust nibs around.
I’ll shop around for an electric fan, something like this.
http://www.toolrage.com/prodview.asp?sku=INF-15-1000
I’m just worried it might blow dust nibs over the panel. :blink:
Hi Jayson. :welc
I spray in an auto repair shop during weekends (no paint booth), I’d like to add it was about 46-50 F outside (8-12 C). Thats probably why it flashed kinda slow.
I used a hair dryer. It was only a test fender.
Oh I gotta ad, last time I painted was nice and warm, but I stil did get some trash in basecoat.But….. I never had problems with trash in basecoat before when using solvent. Even sometimes I’d get 1-2 dust nibs in clearcoat, but nothing in basecoat.
I’m sure it flashes nice and fast in a warm booth, but I wanna look for a way to make it work in my environment. If I can’t make it work I don’t see how a weekend painter is going to use waterborne to paint. :blush:
Ok, sprayed again today, I think I got the hang of it. :cheer:
However, I did get lots of trash in basecoat. I’d wait and sand the dust nibs, spray again and that coat would get trash again. :unsure:
Does sikkens have some sort of additive to make autowave flash faster?
Oh its real.
[URL=http://img188.imageshack.us/i/lolvette.jpg/][IMG]http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/7669/lolvette.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://img88.imageshack.us/i/lolvette4.jpg/][IMG]http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/2576/lolvette4.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://img25.imageshack.us/i/lolvette3.jpg/][IMG]http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/6378/lolvette3.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://img149.imageshack.us/i/lolvette2.jpg/][IMG]http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/5020/lolvette2.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Ok so I’ll need to wait 10 mins before spraying! :blink:
What about after tacking?AndyT, that’s exactly what happened: I sprayed my first coat full wet, it looked HORIBBLE. :rofl
I was thinking how the hell did that happen. There were these huge circles on surface that looked like paint was blistering about to come off.I’m gonna try it again this weekend. :woohoo: :blink:
Hi Jayson, thanks for reply. :welc
Fair enough, this was my first time spraying water and I should get the hang of it.
I waited about a minute after cleaning with waterborne solvent, then I tacked, waited another minute before spraying. I just ran the tack cloth gently along the surface, didn’t push hard.My first coat was full wet coat and I waited till the surface was matte before next coat. When you say mettalics should be swimming, do you mean they are scattered around but they are not evenly placed?
The only reason I used Nason clear was because I was just curious, its only a test panel. I take your word for it about using compatible products, that’s why I am going to ask the jobber about Pro Air clear.
I can use this clear with other brands, water and solvent right? :blush:According to Sikkens, its ok to spray first coat thin:
[URL=http://img526.imageshack.us/i/sikkens1.jpg/][IMG]http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/48/sikkens1.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Ok, I sprayed autowave today: pain in the ass. :blink:
I sanded the whole fender with 800, first cleaned with solvent borne cleaner, then with a mix of water and alcohol.
I sprayed a full-wet coat first, and it had all sorts of problems:
mottling(huge mottling), striking, craters, and the metallics were oriented in a weird pattern upwards, kinda like iron powder on a magnet. :censWashed the whole panel down with warm water and tried again, cleaned the panel many times, same problem!
Finally after 3-4 tries, I decided to paint this piece of bumper, this time I decided to spray my first coat light, almost like solvent BC.
I still got some crates and mettalics mottling, but I waited for it to dry, then sprayed a medium wet coat followed by orientation coat and oddly enough, it covered the crater and mottlings.After all it came out acceptable. Out of curiosity, I sprayed it with Nason clear and didn’t lift, but I’ll see how it holds up tomorrow. It was just a 20″x12″ piece of a broken bumper.
Its not user friendly AT ALL, and I don’t see myself spraying large panels/whole cars with it. It’s reallyyyy finicky.
I’m really anal about surface/gun cleaning, and I’ve had zero problems with solvent basecoats.
Anyways maybe I need more practice, but this waterborne stuff will not be so friendly to a hobbyist painting a whole car on weekend.
I would try glasurit or R-M, but I’ve read they get lots of trash in them and they are a paint to sand.Maybe spies will be better, I’ll see if I can get it locally.
I’m gonna miss Diamont. :S
Lesonal ProAir clear sounds fine, I only spray 1-2 panels each time. Do you recommend slow or fast hardener? Probably slow to allow the clear to flow better?
Just wondering: how come Nason clear is not compatible with autowave making it peel? Solvents too strong?
Can lesonal proair be used with other brands, both solvent and waterborne? Diamont, Spies, etc…?
Wow, :blink:
so whats the Lesonal clear to use that dries fast in no-booth conditions and is decently priced?
Does U-Tech make a similar clear compatible with sikkens waterborne?Appreciated your help Jayson. :blush: :cheer:
After looking at TDS for other paints:
Pot lifes:
Spies Hecker : Unlimited
Onyx: N/A, 12 months for some.Screw Sikkens. :lol1 :blush:
I really hope the local jobber who carries Nason and Dupont stiff has the spies water. I remember him giving me quote for spies clears.
Thanks for reply guys.
The color is BMW 309 silver, not sure if it has the MM777 in it.
I just wanted to spray a test fender, to get the hang of water BC before Canada switches over to waterborne.Holy crap, the shelf life for sikkens is ridiculous! I can already tell waterborne paint is not so friendly with hobbyists. Glasurit seems to have a much better shelf life, too bad its said to dry really slow and sand like rubber.
BTW: how come I cant use Nason clear over it? Whats going to happen? :blink:
Some questions for Sikkens Autowave users. :blush:
1) I just got 1/2 quart of BMW 309 silver. Whats the mix ratio? Guy told me its
10:1 (10 parts BC to 1 parts actovator WB)But I see the Sikkens TDS varies from 10-50 parts. I’m lost.
2)Whats the shelf life of autowave if its not mixed with actiwator WB?
3)Whats the pot life once mixed with activator wb?
4)does activator WB go bad after a while once it has been opened (like clearcoat activator?)
Aw crap I just realized Sikkens asks for 1.4-1.5 for their waterborne. :S
Thanks for reply guys. :cheer:
Lots of great info. Good thing I got the Sata 3000 HVLP. Since I have the 1.3 tip I will try either sikkens or Glasurit.
Probably sikkens since I hear lots of raves about it. It better be compatible with Nason 465 clear! 👿 (I almost have a gallon left)Very nice job! Did you use the Iwata?
You should try R-M Diamont, the coverage and color match is great.