Another Hood Scoop Question.
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Well I’ve got a Fiberglass, or urethane… Not sure at the moment. I haven’t seen it since I got the car. And it’s been in the bottom of the 7 foot box. 😆
Anyway.
Need to graph it to a hood.
it has to be functional.
It’s just a basic scoop and it has four studs on the bottom. Nothing fancy.I know I can fiberglass it. as well as glue it to the hood.
But I figured I’d ask you guys for your suggestions.What is your best/favorite method for doing such a add-on?
And yes Bondo. We know that you’ve fabricated an entire scoop and the car it was connected to out of Bondo before. But I don’t think that is the best method for doing this one. 😆
Thanks guys
Richard.some pics might help usually im not a big fan of trying ta mold a glass part to a steel hood ive seen to many fail:blink: if i had to i would use a pnl adhesive with some flexible filler like duramix or make the owner buy a glass hood and or a steel one with the scoop built in
This hood is going to be a nightmare though.
Although it visually doesn’t look terrible. it appears to have been walked on or had something heavy sat on it.One side of it has about a 1/4″ deep by 1 foot wide by two foot long dent.
It would be an easy fix with Filler but because I have to graph a scoop to the hood I think it is going to suck.
Because if I graph it as is one side of the scoop is going to sit a 1/4 inch lower.I technically have four of these hoods in my shop… I guess I could use one of the other decent ones and just save this one for another project.
Or I could just force the owner to buy a fiberglass hood with the Shelby scoop on it. 😆
But then I’d have to deal with a cheap half assed fiberglass hood. and it would probably take less time just to graph this POS to it…Just admit that the only reason you wanted to see it is because you wanted me to go pull it out of the damn box… :laugh:
And it’s fiberglass.
The Hood:
[img]http://www.ratstangrestoration.com/66Stang/Hood201.jpg[/img]The Scoop
[img]http://www.ratstangrestoration.com/66Stang/Hood203.jpg[/img]The Back
[img]http://www.ratstangrestoration.com/66Stang/Hood202.jpg[/img]I think the thing that worries me the most about this particular scoop. is it is clearly a bolt on, and doesn’t have any flat surface to bond to like some of the graph on scoops…
i would be blunt with the owner about not warranting that one against it cracking just ta keep ur ass coverd ya i dont like the looks of that one either:blink: :blink: :blink:
Just tell the guy to go out and buy a gt-350 fibeglass hood. Or,,, tell him to keep what he has and have the visible seam. Or,,,, make a scoop outta steel. A hood is tough to bond something to without it cracking later.
[b]bloverby wrote:[/b]
[quote]Just tell the guy to go out and buy a gt-350 fibeglass hood. Or,,, tell him to keep what he has and have the visible seam. Or,,,, make a scoop outta steel. A hood is tough to bond something to without it cracking later.[/quote]
i agree, throw that scoop away. Exactly how many hours does it take to strip a 65 mustang with a 1inch roloc?:PAlready suggested a fiberglass hood to the owner. Or a bond-able scoop.
Actually I use a 6 inch Strip disk on my aircat. It’s not bad. Lot faster than 80 grit on 7″ disc.
Lot more economical to. These things will go a lot longer than you think if you use them correctly.
Fastest mechanical stripping I’ve used yet. Other than Abrasive blasting. So we’ll call it the fastest, cleanest method.Tears paint off in an instant. goes through bondo like you wouldn’t believe. Seam sealers. All of it. nothing stops it. except edges. Edges really mess these things up if you don’t make sure it is rotating away from the edge.
I did a full door and fender in what like 15-20 minutes.
Go pick up a 6 inch 3M Strip disk at Wally world out of the household tool departments.
Cost like 6-7 bucks a piece or like 8 bucks for a dually.
Looks like this:
[img]http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/54pontiac/images/38strip.jpg[/img]Give it a try. You’ll like it. 😉
In my opinion these are even better quality than their expensive/tiny ass roloc’s they sell in the paint stores.
Just because I think the size and thickness, increases the durability and longevity of the product.Richard
aw a hamburger patty:rofl
I know you guys don’t have to strip much.
But go get one out of the household tool department.Go on. Give it a try. :whistle:
It’ll pay for itself.
i use em on my little body grinder just dont tac it to much or youll blow it apart
I prefer the ones with the Arbor that you can throw on a drill or angle grinder…
I wouldn’t suggest any electric tools with these… Too much power isn’t a good thing with these. :unsure:maybey i will post a pic for ya on how i do mine i run em with my little 4 inch air body grinder an it works awsome ya just got to show a little restraint about spinning em 2 fast just a little pull on the trigger is all it takes pull it 2 hard an youll blow em right in 2 i like the way they dont remove any metal plus when i got em cranked into to that little pistol grip grinder its got a very nice feel to it i buy the bigger ones without the arbor an punch a 1 inch hole in the center an chuck em right into the grinder just like a body grinding disc takes a little work but its well worth it i usally got ta tenderize the center ta get it ta compress ta get the arbor bolt on but once ya do it ya really have a nice tool
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