body shop and clear coat

Home / Forums / Main Forum / Paint and Refinish / body shop and clear coat

  • Author
    Posts
  • January 9, 2012 at 2:05 am #35191

    I bought a 2012 Charger with the red line three coat pearl. There was a medium scratch on the left rear quarter. After leaving it all week at the dealers body shop, I discovered they had just done the work that day (Friday). The paint was till soft and they had not washed it. I discovered trash under the paint in several places and the edge against the trunk and around to the rear window glass was matte and unpolished. The manager said that he would have it sanded out on Monday when the paint cured. When I asked him about that compromising the clear coat, he evaded the question and told me that all paint jobs, even new cars had trash and that is how they fixed it. My concern is that they did not even clearcoat it. If so, why would the unfinished edges be matte. How do I find out if they replaced the factory clear coat?

    January 9, 2012 at 2:53 am #35192

    Just take it back and let them do what they need to do.

    January 9, 2012 at 3:20 am #35193

    [quote=”bloverby” post=24550]Just take it back and let them do what they need to do.[/quote]

    Exactly.

    Without seeing pictures we can only speculate what the issue(s) are, could be something really minor. And yes, they clearcoated it. They wouldn’t have used Single Stage on it, so they would have to have cleared it. They are also correct about factory jobs having trash in the paint as well. Generally factory jobs are very clean and contain minimal amounts, but it is there. I am not defending them, but it is best to let them have it back and allow them to address your concerns.

    Just as a question, though, how much did you pay? Did they give you some sort of a deal? Just for reference, fixing a small scratch on a Challenger 1/4, tri-stage at our Dealer would cost you about $1200 (for R&I of all trim/glass, repairing scratch and painting) depending on the size and location of said scratch.

    January 9, 2012 at 3:58 am #35195

    So when they sand it down to the base paint to get the trash out they do not hurt the clear coat. I understand that all paint jobs may have trash but we are only talking about a quarter panel. If that happened in that little area they were really messy. No cost, it was bought off the lot with the scratch.

    January 9, 2012 at 7:41 am #35197

    [quote=”arount” post=24553]So when they sand it down to the base paint to get the trash out they do not hurt the clear coat. I understand that all paint jobs may have trash but we are only talking about a quarter panel. If that happened in that little area they were really messy. No cost, it was bought off the lot with the scratch.[/quote]

    Again, I can only speculate what needs done. But generally if there is trash in the paint, it can be denibbed/wetsanded and polished (within the clear). Repainting is only necessary if there is a lot of crap in there, or it is visible colour wise (chucks of stuff rather than dust).

    Having worked at several dealers, I would consider talking to the salesman. Sometimes if there is damage in a sold vehicle that is negotiated as part of the sale, it is the sales department that is paying the bodyshop. Often times, the salesman will try to undercut the bodyshop to aid with a better price/profit in the sale. This may or may not be the case, but I wouldn’t be surprised if the shop is doing this as a charity case for the salesman.Not that its right for the bodyshop to not do their best, but there may be more to it than what it seems.

    Again, I would take it back, let them know your concerns and let them take care of it. As in most cases it is just something that slipped through the cracks and I wouldn’t worry too much.

    January 10, 2012 at 3:14 am #35204

    Good advise. They have it now and ill give them a shot. Maybe I misunderstood clear coat. I thought you spray the base, clean and sand any imperfections then clear coat. I understand every paint job has flaws but this was only the top half of the rear quarter. I’d hate to see the amount of trash in one of their full jobs.

    January 11, 2012 at 5:44 am #35225

    Well went to pick up the car. The edge near the rear window and trunk lid was not buffed, was still matte. Again, when you sand trash from the base coat you destroy the clearcoat. This really sucks.

    January 11, 2012 at 7:05 am #35227

    Post a picture so we know what you are talking about.Next time buy a car that doesn’t need any “touch up work” 😉

    January 11, 2012 at 7:15 pm #35232

    [quote=”Jayson M” post=24584]Post a picture so we know what you are talking about.Next time buy a car that doesn’t need any “touch up work” ;)[/quote]

    Eh cmon. We all know this guy should have gotten a good repair and didn’t. For whatever reason, how they get there really does not matter, but the customer should be satisfied.

    I suggest he find a similar car on their lot and show them what he expects the repair to look like.

    January 13, 2012 at 4:36 am #35258

    [quote=”arount” post=24582]Well went to pick up the car. The edge near the rear window and trunk lid was not buffed, was still matte. Again, when you sand trash from the base coat you destroy the clearcoat. This really sucks.[/quote]

    OK. Some basics. With MODERN Base Coat/Clear Coat systems: after surface has been prepared (bodywork, primer, sanded, scuffed, and cleaned) the base coat is applied (sprayed). Then when base coat has “flashed” (solvents have evaporated and the paint is not wet anymore) clear coat is sprayed over the whole panel. There is an acceptable “film build” within limits (ATX system I use recommends 2-2.5 mils of clear coat).
    AFTER the clear has dried any small imperfections could easily be sanded out and polished. And as long as your film build is still within the specified limits the clear coat will look and last like it should.

    SANDING CANNOT RUIN YOUR CLEAR UNLESS YOU SAND OFF TOO MUCH CLEAR! :stoned

    If you don’t Buff it enough (which is Super common) then the clear will be hazie or not shiny. If you sand too much the clear will fail in shorter period of time (due to lack of film build) or you will sand through it which is a majorly nasty looking issue which will be immediately noticeable as a color difference. Rough Edges you said “matte” around the window edge sounds like not enough clear applied (to that area) as you must put just enough clear to be “slick” and wet looking. Too much obviously makes runs and too little will look “crunchy” or “fuzzy” like the clear coat wasn’t applied heavily enough to make it “flow” and look wet.

  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.