Colour Matching
- This topic has 14 replies, 9 voices, and was last updated 13 years ago by .
- Posts
Well gents, I have been pondering a while on doing this but I am heading up a colour matching class for a small group and have everything in place to run it. (Light theory, Munsell charts, colour movement charts and some basic colour theory as far as mixing goes pretty much a colour matching 101 nothing too too crazy)
Is there any tips and hints, anyone with an opinion could throw my way to spice it up? I would appreciate I know there is a few hundred years of combined experience on this site.
We have onyx and should have glasurit by the end of the month at our disposal if you want to be specific.
Kennelly
This is such a simple thing but it makes a huge difference when doing a spray out card.You know when you put your spray out card on the car and the color looks close but a little off? Take a piece of black paper and then put your spray out card on top of it so there is about 1/4 inch black border all the way around the spray out,then place it on the car and look at it with your sungun.This will show you if the color will be blendable,it is amazing how simple but effective a tool this is.
Do your tinting in the morning,that is when your eye is the best.Always tint to blend,not to butt match.Remember when dealing with metalics if you want it darker use a big metallic,if you want to lighten use a small metalic,adding white to a metalic will not lighten it but kill all metallics.When looking at variants your eye will usually pick the best one within a few seconds,don’t keep looking at them for a long period of time.Always stay in the formula when tinting(there are exceptions to the rule),always use automotive clear on your sprayouts,NO SPRAYBOMB CLEAR!!!Just a few things to think about.[quote=”Jayson M” post=23844]This is such a simple thing but it makes a huge difference when doing a spray out card.You know when you put your spray out card on the car and the color looks close but a little off? Take a piece of black paper and then put your spray out card on top of it so there is about 1/4 inch black border all the way around the spray out,then place it on the car and look at it with your sungun.This will show you if the color will be blendable,it is amazing how simple but effective a tool this is.
Do your tinting in the morning,that is when your eye is the best.Always tint to blend,not to butt match.Remember when dealing with metallics if you want it darker use a big metallic,if you want to lighten use a small meatallic,adding white to a metallic will not lighten it but kill all metallics.When looking at variants your eye will usually pick the best one within a few seconds,don’t keep looking at them for a long period of time.Always stay in the formula when tinting(there are exceptions to the rule),always use automotive clear on your sprayouts,NO SPRAYBOMB CLEAR!!!Just a few things to think about.[/quote]This is a great post Jayson! All very good info here.
so checking it under my florescent lights in the shop with w+g remover sprayed on to make it shiny isnt the correct way :blink:
Very good jay. I am actually printing off this post and posting it in my paint room at my shop :rock :weights
[quote=”ding” post=23847]so checking it under my florescent lights in the shop with w+g remover sprayed on to make it shiny isnt the correct way :blink:[/quote]
w&g remover is close enough to clear for me :blush:
Yeah we use the degreaser method too, just have to remember to polish up the adjacent panel if butt matching :unsure:
Jayson made a great point about metallics. I would also add that air pressure can be used to lighten/darken the colour like in a drop coat. As well as using a flop controller (if available in your system). Maybe make a note about face and flop, and when you lighten one, you may darken the other.
Otherwise I would just make an emphasis to know how to use any colour charts for your system as well as understanding the 3 dimensions of colour (value, hue and chroma). If you can understand that, then you will understand what adding or removing each toner will do to the colour.
thanks great info so far and yes I do indeed touch on shading using coating thickness and air pressure. Ben I do have an entire segment on munsell colour system (3 dimensions) and the order of importance for tinting.
whats everyones experience with pearls and tri-coat tinting ? and I guess tri-coat blending methods as ive seen a few different ones over the years…I know I know let down panels
A tip for let down panels is only clear half of the ground/mid-coated panel and use the uncleared half for a reference to your colour as you paint, oh and use a larger template for one…not a 4”x6” spray out card
Mike K
[quote=”Ben” post=23867]Jayson made a great point about metallics. I would also add that air pressure can be used to lighten/darken the colour like in a drop coat. As well as using a flop controller (if available in your system). Maybe make a note about face and flop, and when you lighten one, you may darken the other.
Otherwise I would just make an emphasis to know how to use any colour charts for your system as well as understanding the 3 dimensions of colour (value, hue and chroma). If you can understand that, then you will understand what adding or removing each toner will do to the colour.[/quote]
just remember painter variables are a throw back ta the lacquer days …… ta be honest it kind of reminds me of the kill system we had back in the day most modren stuff just dont respond to it 😉 either the color is right or not an side tone is….everything when trying ta achive a blendible matchI agree with Jack,air pressure doesn’t do anything to autowave.You can do a drop coat at 17 psi or 24psi it still looks the same.Now the only thing you can do is to not dropcoat it,that will make a difference,the drop coat with waterborne is lighter compared to darker with solvent.
As far as tri-stages I could write a book about them,but here are some ideas.Make sure your ground coat matches first or you are fuked :deadhorse :deadhorse
If time permits after I have my ground coat blended out,I will take 1 part RTS ground coat + 1 part midcoat and mix them together and blend out this mixture to make an even smoother transition(this is taught in akzo’s advanced application course).You also need to do a reverse or staggered blend with your mid coat or else you will have a build up of midcoat making it look darker at the ends of your blend.Also mark your mid coats with a felt marker on the masking paper for a reference so you know where you are at.Your first coat should go to your maximum blend area,2nd coat to your minimum,3rd coat in the middle of coat 1 and 2.You might want to think about leaving tri-stages out all together and just deal with them another night. :cheers[quote=”Jayson M” post=23870]I agree with Jack,air pressure doesn’t do anything to autowave.You can do a drop coat at 17 psi or 24psi it still looks the same.Now the only thing you can do is to not dropcoat it,that will make a difference,the drop coat with waterborne is lighter compared to darker with solvent.
As far as tri-stages I could write a book about them,but here are some ideas.Make sure your ground coat matches first or you are fuked :deadhorse :deadhorse
If time permits after I have my ground coat blended out,I will take 1 part RTS ground coat + 1 part midcoat and mix them together and blend out this mixture to make an even smoother transition(this is taught in akzo’s advanced application course).You also need to do a reverse or staggered blend with your mid coat or else you will have a build up of midcoat making it look darker at the ends of your blend.Also mark your mid coats with a felt marker on the masking paper for a reference so you know where you are at.Your first coat should go to your maximum blend area,2nd coat to your minimum,3rd coat in the middle of coat 1 and 2.You might want to think about leaving tri-stages out all together and just deal with them another night. :cheers[/quote]Come to think of it, you are right. With the Autowave I was dropping pressure for the drop coat, but now I spray at the same pressure as my regular coats. Colour is the same both ways when comparing sprayouts of the same colour. When I first stated out we sprayed mostly Single Stage. With the SS metallics pressure did make a difference. Not sure how sensitive other brands are to pressure, but definitely worth checking out when spraying a different product.
PPG water is the same way, air pressure doesnt effect the contrast. Infact for doing my drop coats i actually turn my pressure up and hold the gun back 10-12 inces and fog out the panel. i find it helps the color blend out better and get better metallic control. And for some reason when i drop my pressure i seem to get more trash :S
Are you sure you don´t ruin your adhesion??
no problems
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.