g92 IROC Build –
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I recently bought an all original deep red metallic G92 1989 IROC-Z with N10 dual cats, J65 four wheel disc brakes, WC T5 5 speed transmission and LB9 Tuned Port Injected 305. I’ve had many of these but never a real “G92” version with a 5 speed so it’s pretty nice. It’s also got leather interior and a FACTORY Bose/Delco CD Player… pretty hot for the 80’s. Anyway, I got the car from a friend for a decent deal but it’s from Billings, Montana. So it has SERIOUS undercoating on the floors which has helped save it but at the same time, a total PITA to get off!
So without further adiue…
The car
YES, thats my GF helping me remove the rear end, gas tank and suspension AND** SCRAPE the undercoating.
The undercoating:
What ive used to get this crap off:
The tool is a Ryobi multi tool with nylon d cup brush and nylon wheel. It does a nice job when used with autozone engine degreaser and assorted scrapers.
Attachments:Heres where Im at right now…
The above pictures do not have rust. It’s leftover grease from the undercoating. I am going to wash it down with Acetone and then apply a sealer.
The thing is… My trusted painter told me to use a DTM epoxy on the galvanized metal… and at nearly $300 bucks for a gallon…It’s expensive! So how do you “spray” the car with a HVLP gun when your working on your back??Attachments:So one of these:
http://www.eastwood.com/ew-concours-primer-base-gun-1-2and1-8-tips-2-cups.html
with one of these:
http://www.ellsworth.com/3m-pps-16121-high-output-mini-pressure-cup/?gclid=CKLomYegyboCFc9i7AoddzUAsQ
will keep the gun siphoning and not cause any cavitation?http://3mcollision.com/products/featured-products/pps These, with the appropriate PPS adapter for the gun.
I can’t comment on the gun as I’m not familiar with it ( I’m a Sata slut ), just follow the tech (TDS) sheet for the primer you are using wrt tip size, pressure etc…could be anywhere from 1.4 – 1.8.
Yeah I looked at the Sata guns but they are way out of my price range for a 1 time deal. Im about to remove the rear bumper, finish out the undercoating removal and blast it.
Im probably going to use soda instead of sand just because its water soluble.I seriously appreciate all your help on this! Im a 12 year Auto Technican (Mercedes and now GM) but dont know much about Auto Body.
[quote=”IROB-Z” post=33870]Yeah I looked at the Sata guns but they are way out of my price range for a 1 time deal. Im about to remove the rear bumper, finish out the undercoating removal and blast it.
Im probably going to use soda instead of sand just because its water soluble.I seriously appreciate all your help on this! Im a 12 year Auto Technican (Mercedes and now GM) but dont know much about Auto Body.[/quote]
I’d do some research on soda blasting, it needs to be neutralized before priming to eliminate any adhesion problems. I understand the ‘water soluble’ characteristic is attractive, however not at the cost of failure.
I’d consider another media ( sand, glass, walnut )…used in combination with mechanically stripping/prepping..have fun!
[quote=”IROB-Z” post=33875]Will sand be too harsh for the galvanized coating on the floors? I am simply trying to get some surface rust and pitting spots, clean with Acetone and apply the epoxy. You arent the only one I have heard say sandblast is the way to go.[/quote]
If it’s rusty, the galvanizing is gone anyways, any epoxy you apply will probably last for as long as you own the car, unless you are driving in a salt belt zone through the winter.
Your surface will need a ‘tooth’..or be abraded for the epoxy to adhere, some epoxies will work directly over blasted metal…I still like to give it a bit of a scrub with some 80 on a DA just cuz I’m fussy.
What does your tech sheet say for “suitable surfaces” as far as prep required?
DuPont™ 2510S™/2540S™/2570S™/2580CR™/2590S™ Epoxy
DTMSurface Preparation
Clean painted surfaces thoroughly with mild detergent and water.
For substrates other than plastic or fiberglass, clean surfaces with Prep-Sol® 3919S™.
For rigid plastic or fiberglass, wipe with Plas-Stick® 2319S™ or 2320S™.
For flexible fascia, refer to the DuPont Plastics Refinishing System
1. To Use Epoxy DTM Primer/Sealer as a Precoat:
Finish sanding with P320 grit paper or finer.
Final cleaning should be done with DuPont™ Final Klean™ 3901S™ or DuPont™ Final Klean™ 3909S™.
2. To Use Epoxy DTM Primer/Sealer as a non-sanding primer:
o For application to OEM replacement parts, sand with P320 grit or finer.
o For application direct to steel, sand with P80 grit followed by P180 grit or finer.
o For application to aluminum, galvanized or stainless, clean with DuPont™ Final Klean™ 3901S™ or DuPont Final Klean™ 3909S™ or sand with P320 grit.
o For OEM and painted surfaces, featheredge with P320 grit or finer.
o Remove sanding sludge with DuPont™ Final Klean™ 3901S™ or DuPont™ Final Klean™ 3909S™.
Tips For Success
Wipe cleaned surface with clean white rag on finger tip. If white rag turns gray, surface is not clean.
For difficult to clean substrates, use appropriate surface preparation agent. (E.g. for aluminum, use DuPont™ 225S™ and for ferrous metals use DuPont™ 5717S™.)
Gun Setups*
Compliant
Siphon Feed: 1.6 mm – 1.8 mm
Gravity Feed: 1.4 mm – 1.6 mm
HVLP
Siphon Feed: 1.5 mm – 1.8 mm
Gravity Feed: 1.4 mm – 1.6 mm
Air Pressure*
Compliant
Siphon Feed: 30 – 45 psi @ the gun.
Gravity Feed: 30 – 40 psi @ the gun.
Pressure Feed 1.2 mm fluid tip, 35-40 psi @ the gun (fluid flow-14-16 oz/minute)
HVLP
Siphon Feed: 8-10 psi @ the gun cap
Gravity Feed: 8-10 psi @ the gun cap
*The listed setups cover the usual range for various application equipment.I agree with Charlie I to 80 grit with da after blasting one thing even though the DuPont is a great product there are some much more price friendly epoxys out there and they are all for bare metal applications I use alot of omni epoxy and works vary well for about a third of the price and I am sure the other guys on here have some good alternatives to save money to put into the paint and clear
:rockFrom the pics, the floor doesn’t look bad at all.
If there is any pitting/rust, soda blasting wont help. It only removes the paint, and can be more problematic than its worth (with regards to properly neutralizing it). I second using silica or other means. Sanding/grinding will remove some of the zinc(galvanized) coating, but so will any blasted media that can remove corrosion. That is why you would use a top quality epoxy primer after. Or you could use an etch primer than a good quality sealer. But with the right epoxy it could be a 1 step process.
Are you painting the undercarriage when you done, or leaving it in the epoxy?
As fat as the DuPont epoxy you mentioned goes, only use the 2580CR. All of them are DTM, but the 2580CR has more corrosion resistant properties. Only down side is that it is green, the others are black, grey and white. I used all of those epoxies in the past and they are nice, but pricy. I have a lot of confidence in the 2580CR, so I personally would be happy paying a little extra for it. There may be some cheaper epoxies with compatible performance, but I have no experience there. PPG has the DP line, but I think the pricing is similar.
Okay, add oribital sander, 80 grit. $120
1 gallon DTM epoxy $290.00
1 50 gallon Air compressor (have it)
Eastwood Concours HVLP Primer/Base Gun 1.2-1.8 $200
Respirator $50.00
Sand Blaster 100lb $185
Media $30
and 3M PPS stuff… Not sure which size and filter??I am sold on the Dupont stuff so I don’t mind paying for it. I will be painting the undercarriage when it’s said and done. Not necessarily a show car (as I like to drive it and not be concerned about losing a show for having a little fun) but… I do want it to be nice. So probably black or body color. Especially if the good stuff comes out green.
As far as blasting goes, I keep hearing “Black Beauty” and “Starblast” …. which is the good stuff?
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