Got some waterborne stuff…
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I was at the jobber today and got these for free:
[img]http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/9493/dsc0419.jpg[/img]
The waterborne basecoats are Sikkens Autowave already reduced and about a quart of the gun cleaner, I think 1:1 mixture of alcohol and water will work fine to clean the gun after use.
I’ll probably try it this weekend on a fender and use a hair dryer on cold setting to flash the baseboat.
Any tips?:silly:Hopefully I’ll get off a good start with waterborne paint.:lol:
Clean your gun with warm water in a squirt bottle. Then pull the needle out and flush again. Once done rinse with acetone. The warm water will clean it nicely. Make sure you spray your costs wet. Once covered apply an orientation coat and you should be good to go. A hair drier with some heat should work fine. If your area is clean you could use a box fan on low speed would also work. If the humidity is low it will dry on its own fairly quick. If you have to blend try not to flick your wrist to much as it isn’t needed, you don’t want a lot of dry overspray.
Also when you are cleaning your panels make sure you use a waterborne cleaner and a solvent cleaner. Make sure you wipe it on and off I one direction only. By doing this you will drag tha contamination off and not smear it around. If you don’t when you apply your basecoat you will see streaks in it that won’t go away. Glass cleaner works very well for getting rid of the streaks before you paint
ryanbrown999 , thanks for reply.
So I should use only waterborne cleaner before spraying basecoat? Can I use distilled water mixed with isopropyl alcohol 1:1 instead?
I paint in a auto repair garage on weekends, so its definitely not a clean area. :laugh:
The alcohol and water should work fine. I would use glass cleaner afterwards and follow that up with a solvent cleaner. You can’t have one too clean when using waterborne.the glass cleaner is mostly for getting rid of streaks. Make sure to use solvent cleaner to as waterborne has a tendency to fisheye somewhat easily compared to solvent base.oh ya DO NOT shake your base only stir.
Also no metal cups or wooden sticks. And make sure your strainers are at least 175 micron and are made for waterborne. If not the glue that holds the strainer to the paper will break down in a matter of seconds.
Gosh dupont water must be a pita.. My glaso 90 line is easy to use.. No worries about streaking or shaking.. You can throw them on the shaker if you like.. Doesnt change a thing.. We clean the same as always.. Although we have been using a water based cleaner for 8 years or so.. Actually you wouldnt know you were even spraying water except it takes a bit longer to dry w/ no blowers and the clear hold out is much better..
ryanbrown999, thanks again! I have some sikkens M600 surface cleaner that I’ll use before spraying the basecoat.
At first I thought you meant to say do NOT use solvent based cleaner :silly:
Any particular glass cleaner that you like?I’m just a hobbyist, is it ok if I use the aluminum cup that came with my iwata? If not I’ll probably go the PPS route later.
Joe@FCAB
The jobber also told me they do not use the shaking machine for waterborne. Something about bubbles… (??)
He told me just to stir it.Sikkens stuff is kinda different.. I have sprayed it..
Put your first coat on wet like clear coat or single stage,second coat is a medium.Third coat is a drop coat,drop your air pressure about 2 psi and extend your spray distance 12-18 inches away(I know weird) and that is all there is to it.Make sure each coat is dry befor you put the next one on.
your aluminum cup will be fine. Any glass cleaner works good. I have used Windex, Sprayway, and 3M. They all work good.
The sikkens water is a little more tempermental than Dupont.
Joe, I don’t think the Cromax is to much of a pain in the rear, but I have never used 90 line. You can shake the solid tints just not the metallics and pearls. It mixes really easy so not shaking isn’t a big deal at all. The one good thing about Cromax is every color is 1.5 coat coverage wet on wet. If you get back on it it wants to die back a little.
How do you like the 90 line? I have only heard good things about Glasurit. I have only sprayed a little bit so I don’t know much about it. How do you compare the Autowave to 90 line?We love the 90 line so far.. It covers in basically one coat.. Usually just do two coats to make sure.. Cleaning is no different than solvent and application is no different.. Dry times are no different with the blowers off than if you used slow reducer in your base.. I do have a basic blower setup but could live without it. The other thing is color match is awesome with this new line, basf also has more formulas in water than anyone else at this point..
Autowave sprayed okay, but would take years to dry w/ no blowers. It goes on like a rainbow and dries to the color you are spraying which I didnt like.. 90 line looks like solvent base when sprayed which is nice when blending.. Autowave also requires you to use color build plus and their new formulated clears for autowave which are very pricey.. 90 Line allows us to continue using the same primers and clears we have in the past, so the initial cost was much less than if I had switched back to sikkens. Sikkens also wants you to invest in about 10-20k worth of equipment that honestly is not needed, but they wont install a system until you upgrade.. Honestly I have spent about 150 on two activated carbon filters for the 90 line and thats it.. BASF actually gave me 4 blowers and 2 stands for free, so if I had to purchase those it would of been about 650 plus the carbon filters.. We didnt make any decisions over night.. I attended 3 autowave tech classes as well as toured 3 shops that were spraying it.. We did the same for the 90 line and were really impressed w/ the advantages over sikkens.. Keep in mind I was a sikkens customer for 8 years.. Have been much happer with basf overall in the last 4 years we have been spraying it..
Joe, do you have any of the problems Jerry talks about with 90 line over at ABOL? chunks in the base, slow dry…etc
That is a very good comparison Joe,I have no experience with the 90 line but have heard good things about it.I just thought I would add a few things about Sikkens.You don’t have to use the color build plus primer but it is a must for the sealer to be tinted(I’m not a big fan of color build primer so we use something else)The superior clear is very pricey about $500 retail per sprayable gallon,and it needs to be baked or it is real slow.You could also use HS+lv or lessonal pro air wich is a fast air dry clear.Our shop already has a new screw type compressor and our new booth is 4 years old,all we need is a few hand held blowers.It seems every rep is different as to what you need,but our reps have taken good care of us(our shop has been using sikkens since 87 maybe that’s why??)We have not made the switch yet and are still using solvent,but it will be a done deal in the next month or so.We have demoed it at our shop a few times and I have not been to the training center yet for autowave so I can’t really comment.
Yeah I have seen his posts and even printed out some of it and gave it to my rep.. I really dont have any problems to speak of.. As far as sikkens goes, at the training center they told us you can only use color build plus under autowave or you will have problems down the road.. Yeah they did say you can use hs+lv, but nothing about the lesonal stuff.. Yeah the hardner for that sikkens clear is about 950 dollars a gallon.. Thats the only way you can buy it according to the rep at the training center..
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