Ground coats

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  • April 1, 2009 at 7:27 am #13713

    Here is the question of the day for me that is …..

    Aside from value shades dupont is famous for..

    When you have a color you are going to shoot.. for example say Yellow like this stang Im getting prepped for paint..

    Why would you want to use a white sealer instead of a yellow?? Wouldnt a pale yellow sealer be easier to cover than a white sealer??

    I ask cause I got a gallon of cheap 2k that is yellow.. And a gallon of sealer that cost about 2wice as much.. I would rather use the yellow, but white seems to be what is recommended??

    I guess in a broader sense.. would it not be better to use a like color sealer under your base for easier coverage.. Is that not what tint primers are for??
    [b]
    I have always based my color of ground coat on the top coat color and what the top coat will cover faster.. For example although you here about all the shades of gray to use, i have personally found that blues generally cover over a black sealer sooooooo much faster than a gray[/b]

    Im tryin to save a buck here also, and I also thought that the yellow 2k would cover over this lazer red much better than white reduced epoxy which is what I use for sealer..

    I would have to use 2 coats, wait till next day and then it would have too much texture for my liking, and I aint sanding this thing again

    Any thoughts, comments or curse words welcome :welc

    Anonymous
    April 1, 2009 at 4:43 pm #13715

    The coverage of your basecoat depends on the Value (shade) of the undercoat, hence Dupont value shade. Using a different yellow will give you a closer hue, but not value and not help out much with coverage. The colored primers will help if they provide the proper value, otherwise its just a cool colored primer.

    I’ve been their with a red once before. I sprayed a similar red as my ground coat, then I sprayed my actual color and thought I had full coverage. When it came time to do the bumpers I realized I had mad a huge mistake and I could not replicate the color I had on the body as I had no idea what undercoat I used, a mystery red from under the bench.

    Here’s a reference chart from glasurit regarding undercoats: https://www.basfrefinish.com/cap_data_docs/documentum/Glasurit/Literature/English/AD2901G%20285-38%20and%2049.pdf

    April 1, 2009 at 6:18 pm #13717

    Jimmo if I were sealing it all with the same yellow it would not matter right?? I mean if every panel has the same color yellow then it will all be the same right??

    April 1, 2009 at 6:24 pm #13718

    After sleeping on it I think I have a cheaper game plan.. I will just mix up some pure white base that I keep a gallon of here at all times.. Shoot a couple coats of that on to give me a white base to spray my yellow over.. Then i will let the base set overnight before I clear it.. that way it can gas off properly or set it in the sun after I shoot the color to let it gas..

    Im just almost positive that my sealer wont cover in 1 coat over the lazer red so I would build allot of solvent with 2 coats of it anyways

    April 1, 2009 at 6:45 pm #13719

    BK, i don’t see why you cant get the base done in one session. How about shooting the yellow 2K then
    follow up with white then your actual color? And clear the following day or in a few hours. This would
    be more like “production” work that most of us do. Maybe getting the base done early in the day and clearing
    at night could be efficient for you. This is how i normally tackle larger projects of weekends.

    April 1, 2009 at 7:36 pm #13721

    Han why would i need to spray the yellow 2k over the whole thing then?? If I am going to use white base as my “sealer” then there is no reason for the added build or solvents right???

    I of course will 2k the bodywork spots but the rest of the body is sanded with 320 and ready for sealer or paint

    April 1, 2009 at 8:16 pm #13722

    Ah! Ok. That would be even faster and cheaper!:)

    April 1, 2009 at 8:26 pm #13723

    I would 2k my repair areas,sand, and then 2k the whole car complete and re sand.. It wont save you much time but at least you wont have all that solvent to release.. Everything usually lays smoother when you dont seal as well..

    April 1, 2009 at 8:39 pm #13724

    i would just blow a couple coats of white base let em flash an do the yellow till ya are done let it all flash out good tac it an then clear…:silly: done:silly: :silly:

    April 1, 2009 at 8:46 pm #13725

    btw white makes an exellent ground coat for yellow ive even used it ta do ss epoxys an urethanes

    April 1, 2009 at 8:48 pm #13726

    [b]bondomerchant wrote:[/b]
    [quote]i would just blow a couple coats of white base let em flash an do the yellow till ya are done let it all flash out good tac it an then clear…:silly: done:silly: :silly:[/quote]

    I second this

    April 1, 2009 at 9:10 pm #13727

    I dont like going wet on wet really anymore.. I think the paint looks better when you let the primer dry.. The only place I go wet on wet is on the underside of hoods, doors, etc.. I wont seal the outside of a car anymore then base and clear…I will prime, sand, then base..

    April 1, 2009 at 9:25 pm #13728

    Well, like I’ve said 1000 times,
    Put enough paint on it and the groundcoat won’t matter.
    And it’ll be easier to match in the future too.
    Don’t skimp on paint, that’s why there are flash cards,
    to make sure you’re getting “total hiding”
    that’s what you want.
    If the groundcoat is making a difference, there’s not enough paint on it.:P

    April 2, 2009 at 12:37 am #13735

    But thats part of the point.. You are going to waste a ton of color trying to get coverage with out a good ground coat/tinted primer. Good base isnt cheap anymore… :S

    April 2, 2009 at 1:50 am #13736

    a white ground coat under yellow is just smart kinda like bread an butter

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