Hail damage repair problem
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Hey all,
I have an ’04 Subaru WRX STi in for hail damage repair. Roof, doors, boot, tops of doors and a new hood.
I took the roof back to bare metal, filled the dents with polyester filler and blocked back. Repeated this process until the hail dents were gone. I then sprayed 2 coats of (Car System) polyester, baked that, blocked it back with 80 then 180 then 240. Primed it with PPG D839 spray filler (5:1:1), then blocked that back with 180, then 240 then 400.
All the time I was blocking, I was conscious not to dig the block into the roof where I would put pressure on any of the roof attachment points.
As the primer was older than 72 hours by the time I got to spray my base, I hit the panel with 2 coats WOW D839. Base laid down nicely and so did the HS clear.
I’m now looking at the roof and I can see very slight (but noticable) circular depressions in the roof directly where the adhesive spots attach the roof skin to the cross bars. They weren’t visible in the WOW primer or prior to clearing, and they didn’t show up on [u]any[/u] of my multiple guidecoats either. But the f-ers are there. :wak
Can anybody tell me how this has happened, and what do you recommend I do to fix it? The car has to be delivered soon and I’d really rather not have to do the roof from scratch if I can help it. But if it’s the best way, I will do that. Or, could I knock back the clear a little with 180 and then fill the depressions with U-Pol Dolphin fine finish filler, reprime and paint again? All I’m worried about the micron thickness building up.
Any help/advice greatly appreciated!
Cheers,
Simeat first i was thinking that you over baked (like too long or too soon), but now i think u may have blocked wrong. id take it back to steel and do it again. too much polyester spray or filler will cause cracks in the finish with a little help from the sun since its in direct constant exposure.
[quote=”MoCoke” post=14509]at first i was thinking that you over baked (like too long or too soon), but now i think u may have blocked wrong. id take it back to steel and do it again. too much polyester spray or filler will cause cracks in the finish with a little help from the sun since its in direct constant exposure.[/quote]
My first thought was from the baking as well…
I know roofs can be a pain. Not sure how I would suggest repairing it without being able to see/feel it. :unsure:
Good luck though
think i found your problem :stoned , i dont think poly primer is intended to be baked. i looked at several different manufacturers and none of them suggest anything about baking or force drying.
[quote=”MoCoke” post=14514]think i found your problem :stoned , i dont think poly primer is intended to be baked. i looked at several different manufacturers and none of them suggest anything about baking or force drying.[/quote]
We use the same Carsystem Poly primer. We never bake it, only air dry it (at least over night or longer).
Of course, after it is sanded and painted, the vehicle does get baked.
I have had this happen from time to time, especially on Aluminum panels with inner reinforcement. I have found it beneficial to always break the inner reinforcemnet loose with a metal spatula or spreader and re-glue them after sanding. But be careful not to force adhesive into joints or it will have the opposite effect with humps instead of dips. Only takes 15 minutes and feeds a family of four
[quote=”Paintwerks” post=14507]Hey all,
I have an ’04 Subaru WRX STi in for hail damage repair. Roof, doors, boot, tops of doors and a new hood.
I took the roof back to bare metal, filled the dents with polyester filler and blocked back. Repeated this process until the hail dents were gone. I then sprayed 2 coats of (Car System) polyester, baked that, blocked it back with 80 then 180 then 240. Primed it with PPG D839 spray filler (5:1:1), then blocked that back with 180, then 240 then 400.
All the time I was blocking, I was conscious not to dig the block into the roof where I would put pressure on any of the roof attachment points.
As the primer was older than 72 hours by the time I got to spray my base, I hit the panel with 2 coats WOW D839. Base laid down nicely and so did the HS clear.
I’m now looking at the roof and I can see very slight (but noticable) circular depressions in the roof directly where the adhesive spots attach the roof skin to the cross bars. They weren’t visible in the WOW primer or prior to clearing, and they didn’t show up on [u]any[/u] of my multiple guidecoats either. But the f-ers are there. :wak
Can anybody tell me how this has happened, and what do you recommend I do to fix it? The car has to be delivered soon and I’d really rather not have to do the roof from scratch if I can help it. But if it’s the best way, I will do that. Or, could I knock back the clear a little with 180 and then fill the depressions with U-Pol Dolphin fine finish filler, reprime and paint again? All I’m worried about the micron thickness building up.
Any help/advice greatly appreciated!
Cheers,
Sime[/quote]got pics?
consider reblocking with 180-320 to see how it looks first.
might can just reprime with urethane then color…paintwerks, you might try cutting the adhesive loose before reworking the bodywork. It may level itself out and simple need regluing.
[quote=”Brad Larsen” post=14545]paintwerks, you might try cutting the adhesive loose before reworking the bodywork. It may level itself out and simple need regluing.[/quote]
I think I would try that first. I seem to recall others doing the same thing, successfully.
Ben, the polyester was baked, but the Car System TDS says that yes you can bake the polyester. 30 minutes at 60 deg C I recall.
Brad, thanks for the tip re cutting the adhesive. I will try that first.
Will let you all know how it turns out.
Cheers,
Simenot trying to be a smart tail. but next time let pdr fix the hail damage. hell these guys are here every mon. takeing care of the small stuff. plus it saves all kinds of headaches with hail damage.
as for your problme. we had this happen once with a door skin. all we did was cut the adhessive. and then applied more adhessive. the only thing we can think of was, that as the adhesive dryied, it shrank, pulling the sheet metal.Thanks for the tips guys.
I did cut the sealer from the roof skin, but it has no effect and the dents remained. So, to cut these shallow dents out, I softly long blocked the roof back with 180 and finished with 240 on the DA with an interface pad (using even, but light pressure). I just finished spraying 3 coats of PPG D8046 (6:1:1) HS High Build primer (spot) and am letting it air dry overnight.
Will block that back with 240 and see how flat she is. If not, I’ll repeat the process with another couple coats of 8046. I should have a total of 350-450 microns of material thickness once I’ve finished re-painting the roof. While that thickness is not ideal, it will work and it will last.
Thanks for the help and advice guys! Will report back once the roof is repainted.
Cheers,
SimePDR have been great for us with a large amount of retification work having to be completed. far to many untrained staff. One insurance Co mentioned that if one in a 100 complain they are still ahead.
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