Help Denibing problem
- This topic has 13 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 13 years, 7 months ago by .
- Posts
Hi guys having a bit of a problem denibing nibs out of clear coat.
What i usually do is have a tiny wee block with a bit of 2000 wet and flaten out the nib the buff with farecla G3 until the 2000 grit scratches are gone but when the car is washed and groomed and dried off the scratches come back again :deadhorse as if the wash has soaked all the polish out??? Any ideas guys?? cheersI don’t know why you’re having issues with 2000. I denib with 600, then 1200, then 2000 and polish and never have had a scratch problem that wasn’t from failure to thoroughly sand on one of the grits.
are you using an aggressive enough polish? you’ve got to hit it with a pretty mean compound after the 2000, and work up from there. I generally go through a heavy cutting round, then a light cut, and depending on the color go up from there. I make sure I’m washing and drying areas to test as I go because I’ve had little jobs where I thought I was done with a particular stage and when I was ‘finished’ I realized I had more work to do to get rid of scratches of a particular grit.
start buffing with wool pad and an aggressive cutting compound :rock
Try and finish it out with some P3000 trizac paper. Also hit each spot twice instead of once.
Are you using foam or wool pads?
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=15385]Try and finish it out with some P3000 trizac paper. Also hit each spot twice instead of once.
Are you using foam or wool pads?[/quote]
Thats good advice! Try Ryans method. It seems to work good for me. I am using farecla Total.
[quote=”Underpaid Painter” post=15387][quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=15385]Try and finish it out with some P3000 trizac paper. Also hit each spot twice instead of once.
Are you using foam or wool pads?[/quote]
Thats good advice! Try Ryans method. It seems to work good for me. I am using farecla Total.[/quote]
I totally agree.
I dont use Trizac though, i do use p2500
[quote]Also hit each spot twice instead of once[/quote]
This very very important
First time to take the flatting marks out
second time to keep them away, this is where you will be going wrong
Thanks for the replys guys.. Im currently using foam pads with G3 farecla. Today we got some G6 farecla fairly new product faster and coarser cuting action apparently hopfully it will keep them scratches away!!! :rock
Try and get a wool pad. They run cooler and cut faster. I hate using foam for scratch removal.
Try and soak your wet sanding paper for a little bit if possible. It seems to leave alot less harsh of a scratch if it has soaked in water for a bit. If your wet sanding though I would do as Nick does and hit it with some P2500 before buffing.
I usually hit all my nibs with a wool pad first and follow that up with a foam cutting pad and another hit of compound then on the polishing.
The Farecla total seems to work better than the G3 to me. Never seen the G6, let us know how it works!
If all that fails see if you can get ahold of some Menzerna Powergloss. It works great at scratch removal. Best I have used.
are you using the G3 compound correctly? you gotta lubricate the panel and pad with water first. i was using farecla for a while and was capable of removing 1500 grit with it so i dont understand why 2000 grit isnt removable. also make sure you shake the compound bottle before use in case anything settled to the bottom.
[quote]you gotta lubricate the panel and pad with water first[/quote]
I have always kinda disagreed with this theory,
Using water reduces the cut of the compound, as adding water to the application just thins your compound, also leads to more mess.
But i am open to why adding water would help ??
I am aware Farecla also have the total dry use compound, witch may lead the consumer to think that other compounds in the range required to be used wet.
But it probably just another angle to launch and promote yet another product.
I used G3 liquid and paste for many years without adding water, and had no problems
[quote=”MoCoke” post=15411]are you using the G3 compound correctly? you gotta lubricate the panel and pad with water first. i was using farecla for a while and was capable of removing 1500 grit with it so i dont understand why 2000 grit isnt removable. also make sure you shake the compound bottle before use in case anything settled to the bottom.[/quote]
Just because you can remove P1500 scratches from one clearcoat doesn’t mean that it works for all. At work I use Sikkens 250 and Lesonal pro-air out in the shop. I could P1500 wet the Lesonal and buff it out easily. The sikkens 250 if I had to buff out P1500 scratches it would take me forever. Spies and Standox clears aren’t too bad to buff cratches out of but I wouldn’t want to go any coarser than P2000. I have been using the Mirka 2000 and 4000 and like it.
I usually wetted down the G3 but I would hit it first without water and halfway through my buffing cycle I would give it a spritz.
Im having no problem buffing 2000 scrathes out its just they come back after the car has been washed like its never been buffed?? maybe im not running over the nibs enough with the buff as you guys are saying??
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=15415][quote=”MoCoke” post=15411]are you using the G3 compound correctly? you gotta lubricate the panel and pad with water first. i was using farecla for a while and was capable of removing 1500 grit with it so i dont understand why 2000 grit isnt removable. also make sure you shake the compound bottle before use in case anything settled to the bottom.[/quote]
Just because you can remove P1500 scratches from one clearcoat doesn’t mean that it works for all. At work I use Sikkens 250 and Lesonal pro-air out in the shop. I could P1500 wet the Lesonal and buff it out easily. The sikkens 250 if I had to buff out P1500 scratches it would take me forever. Spies and Standox clears aren’t too bad to buff cratches out of but I wouldn’t want to go any coarser than P2000. I have been using the Mirka 2000 and 4000 and like it.
I usually wetted down the G3 but I would hit it first without water and halfway through my buffing cycle I would give it a spritz.[/quote]
thats true i kinda forgot some clears are more difficult to buff than others. as far as lubricating the panel goes, thats just the way farecla recommends it. it gets messy so i stopped using farecla for that reason.
i know this is an oldish thread however i have the same issues with feracla G3 ,looks good on the day then after its washed the scratch marks show again ,only one conclusion G3 must be full of fillers which give a false finish ,once you wash it with detergents the fillers are removed just like glaze or waxes
i have changed over to Menzerna Powergloss and what you see is what you get ,i can now leave a job in the confidence that the scratch marks wont reapear after a wash down ,as a bonus Menzerna cuts better and cleans up far easier than G3 plus it is actualy cheaper
i wont go back to ferecla
Paul
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.