How do you guys setup or adjust your guns?
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- This topic has 34 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 15 years, 10 months ago by Matthew Smith.
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- October 22, 2008 at 6:02 am #11614
At my work we switched over to Dupont several months ago. This week I have had a few reps from Dupont in my shop getting me certified. Since they have been in there everyone of them has given me advice on how to dial in my clear gun, which is an Iwata W-400lv 1.3. I wasn’t having any real problems before but I made the comment to them that their paint seemed to pinch up some no matter what i did. They told me I had my gun set wrong. Seems like now everything I paint looks like shit and its still pinching up. I wanted to here how some of you guys adjusted yours (since you’ll actually paint cars for a living) If you don’t mind try to include what type of gun you spray with, nozzle size and air pressure you spray at.
October 22, 2008 at 6:09 am #11615I probably should add: Do you’ll spray with the material wide open or try to dial it in? I always sprayed wide open and they told me I was wrong for doing this. I am supposed to find some sort of “sweet spot”. I just cant seem to find it? I know this may be a dumb topic to some but its frustrating the hell out of me. I have been painting for 8 years and now I feel like I am starting over after talking with these reps.
AnonymousOctober 22, 2008 at 6:10 am #11616I spray everything wide open, including my w400. Fan wide open, air wide open, regulated at the air valve. I set my gun fluid needle wide open by unscrewing the needle all the way first. Start screwing it in while holding the trigger, as soon as I feel pressure on the trigger its set.
I’ve always heard that this is the proper way to set a gun, if you need less material then change to a smaller tip. I was talking to bondomerchant the other day, he didn’t seem to agree with this so you should get some mix in the opinions soon!
AnonymousOctober 22, 2008 at 6:16 am #11617Not to try and steer people away from here, but I think you should find some usefull information on this forum, [url]http://www.asetusa.com/phpBB2/index.php[/url]. I believe this board is run by an affiliate of Iwata, or maybe Iwata themseleves…they seem to know the guns well!!
October 22, 2008 at 7:36 am #11618I have always done the exact same as you Jimmo, but now i’m told I am wrong. They said I should set the air at the wall high and adjust at the gun. They all recommend Satas so I don’t know if the guns would be different or not? I have looked over the aset site and not really come up with anything different than you said. I was just kinda wanting some input from other guys that painted because real world experience counts for more than what a guy says that doesn’t do it day in and day out. I should ad that when I paint I don’t go for a factory peel look I try to make everything as slick as possible. Maybe that is where my problems come from, the reps have the attitude that everything looks good enough but I want to be better than that!
October 22, 2008 at 7:46 am #11619I’ve heard a few people suggest setting the wall close to your gun, I’ve always had it higher (around 80) and set my psi at the gun. I think its more to prevent a surge of pressure when you first pull the trigger but don’t quote me on that. Its nice to get that superslick finish but for the most part a nice, maybe a bit better than factory finish is all I get on my production work, the texture needs to match the panel next to it still!
The finishes I cant stand are the really sucked in ones where they look terrible under a fluorescent light but when they get outside their fine. I get the odd one when I try and speed up a clear too much & I’ve seen it in the past with certain sealers. Everyone else seems to be happy with them except me…and ya, it bothers me too.
(by the way this is still jimmo, i forgot to log out of the admin account and am too lazy to change it now)
October 22, 2008 at 8:00 am #11620hey ryan sorry ol bondo got soused tonight an cant voice his opinion so well but ya gotta think of your gun as a carburetor dont even think about screwin with your fan wide open is the way to go get the air close an think of the fluid as dropplet size noting more if your slamming on thick wet coats guess what happins you got it die back somtimes solvent pop an worst yet orange peel jimmo its really not that hard to figure out but i might make more sense tomorrow when im not trying to kill the isos in the ol system (drinking large quanitys of beer) btw i think dupont has some of most user freindly clears out their but if your pinching them mabey we can figure out why talk to ya tomorrow an welcome ta the paint porn net yours truly bondo;) 😉
October 22, 2008 at 8:07 am #11621dont feel bad not to many guys can show the clear who is boss!!! an make it think:evil: like we can without running it 👿 ryan ya hoser:P 😛 i do the same thing i like ta push it. to an some paint reps are jackasses dont trust em been their done that;)
October 22, 2008 at 8:14 am #11622ya know ryan ya really asked a GOOD qwestion here trust me ive experianceced the same thing i HATE……when clears die period an i think your in the right place at the right timeB) B) B)
October 22, 2008 at 8:17 am #11623well crack glug glug glug ew last beer tty tomorrow bondomerchant:side:
AnonymousOctober 22, 2008 at 3:30 pm #11624lol, looks like you had fun last night bondo!
One other thing I thought I’d mention ryan, when I was at a dupont demonstration a while back at their training center. They were pushing Iwata’s & the tekna gun. The instructors never even mentioned a sata. I’m sure it varies from person to person like it does painter to painter.
October 22, 2008 at 3:57 pm #11625Thanks Jimmo. Which guns were they pushing and what size nozzle did they recommend? The reps in my work seem to be unhelpful. When I told them I had a problem they just told me what I was doing wrong and didn’t help me fix the problem. After taking their advice the pinching is still there. Now everything is getting a fat urethane peel look to it. I suggested that it was in the basecoat because the ends of my blend panels where there isn’t any color looks fine. They disagreed. This is frustrating because I never had this problem with Standox or Sikkens. Sikkens would shrink back a little on heavy metallic colors because of the basecoat texture but still held a very nice gloss.
AnonymousOctober 22, 2008 at 4:04 pm #11626I was just their for a waternborne demonstration so they didn’t get into it too much. Tekna & Iwata’s they seemed to be the most keen on, but as for tip sizes they didn’t really get into it. Anyone here using the Sata’s will tell you they pump out way more material, if their recommending say a 1.3 on an Sata it will likely become a 1.4 on an Iwata.
Do you have this problem when you slow your clears right down?? Under certain sealers maybe?? or is this just every job regardless??
AnonymousOctober 22, 2008 at 5:40 pm #11627Also, maybe you should post what clear your using. I don’t know much about dupont clears but others here may have experience with the exact products your using.
October 22, 2008 at 9:18 pm #11629ryan don’t let the reps lead you astray. I used to spray dupont with the fan open and feed cut down to avoid mottling due to its poor covering abilities.I use a 1.3 tip rp for clear mostly 72200 and a sata jet 3000 1.3 for base. As for iwata watch out on the clears they will run on you.I have 1 painter that puts custom runs in every job he does and he is an iwata fan.Ill ask my lead painter how he has his iwata set up since he uses the same gun but with no runs,
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