New member with questions
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Hello, I am new member I have been following this site for a while , I have read and watch Youtubes regards using HVLP guns and mixing paint and clear, and decided to tackle a project or repair rust on my lower portion of the doors , I did one side and I am disspointed with what came out.
Usually I used paint cans and it came out very good but this is first time I used HVLP gun, I have adjusted gun to proper setting as per instructions
The gun I used for Base and Clear coat with 1.4 tip
the paint I mix 2:1 ratio as per label , and the clear was also recommended to 2:1 ratio now I am trying to back track and find out what I did wrong here are the photos of the problem
[IMG]http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/7126/img0766s.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/6315/img0767r.jpg[/IMG]Don’t fret, if this is your first time spraying automotive paint. It takes a lot of time and practice to get it perfect.
You have a lot of orange peel (the texture in the paint). It also looks like you may have solvent pop or something else going on there too.
What are the exact products that you used on there? 2:1 may be the right ratio, but if it isn’t, that could be contributing to your issues (as well as many other factors). But lets start with going over the product info and go from there…
This is first time using gun, previously used spray cans order stuff from automotivetouchup.com, and did my both front and rear bumper and came up really good to factory color,
this time decided to use gun method..
The autobody supplier sold me paints from this company http://www.dominionsureseal.com/ European Paints
There are not many suppliers who sells paints to public in Canada, previously I have ordered from US
The label for Basecoat is 2:1 ratio and Clear coat the same 2:1I was able to wet sand 600-800-1000-1500-2000 and removed most of the orange peel , Polished the panel and it is clean but the white dots are present there, when I did sanding is some area the white dots were removed, so this point to clear coat issue am I heading in right direction ?
I would sand it down with 600-800 and re shoot the base and clear.
Make sure to apply the base in medium coats (not too wet) and allow about 5 minutes flash time between coats. Then let the base flash off at least 15 minutes before clearing (maybe even a little longer, just to be safe…most base coats can be cleared up to 24 hours after). When you apply the clear, recheck the adjustments on the gun. It is a good idea to spray some scrap parts or masking paper to check it out. You may want to reduce the clear a little bit to help it out. Ensure you get enough pressure at the gun, hold the gun at about 6″ from the panel. The 1.4 tip in your gun may be a tad big for this product, a 1.3 may be better. A slower activator may also help. Apply 2 coats of clear with adequate flash in between coats (about 5 minutes depending on conditions).
I think your clear went on too thick and was not atomized enough. You probably need thinner wetter coats. Thick coats trap solvent and can cause solvent pop (paint drying from the outside in forms a skin, if there is solvent that hasn’t evaporated, it needs to penetrate that skin, causing little holes/crevices). I believe that is what the white stuff is in your clear. Applying the clear thinner allows the solvent in each coat to evaporate quicker, as does slowing down the clear (with a slower activator/reducer) preventing it from skinning over or even being too dry when being sprayed…this also allows the clear to flow out smoother.
Spray can stuff is usually super thin in order to get it out of the spray can with so little propellant. That is likely why you never had this problem with those.
Thank you for the tip
I will sand down and start from Base Coat to Clear Coat..
Originally I left basecoat overnight to dry out .. then when I started to apply clear coat looks like this is when this mess started.
I will have to get another gun with 1.3 tip, I have one with 1.0 tip but probably too small for clear coat..
regards reducing clear coat
I notice when I did first coat 2:1 (Clear and hardener) when I sprayed it was dull not transparent, <– should this tell me something is wrong ?
I let it sit 30 minutes it got clearer
then I did new batch but added reducer to ratio 2:1:1 (the cap I have has 2:1:1:1 ratio) I did notice when I sprayed it was wet coat clean but I notice it started to get orange peel, and waited 15 minutes it didn't help put my last wet coat and left it overnight to dry , and wake up to this above /..not this clear I have is probably not the best for condition I am doing in Garage make shift booth it seems a lot of people uses 2K stuff which is simpler to handle
should I get 2K clear or suggestion different ratio with this one ?Leaving the base to dry overnight should be ok.
As for the gun for the clear, you could technically use anything. A touchup gun with the small tip (1.0) would be ok for a small area, but you would need to work quickly and possibly reduce the clear a bit…maybe even doing a 3rd coat of clear to ensure proper material build. The 1.4 you used may be ok as well. Hard to say what the best setup is, as I don’t know the gun you are using and have never sprayed this particular clear. I would be tempted to play with the material a bit first, before deciding to buy a new gun. See if you can get it to work for you.
When you say the clear was “dull” was this out of the container, or once it is applied to the vehicle? 2:1:1 may be too much reducer. Typically you don’t over reduce something by more than 5-10% beyond what is recommended. What did you use for a reducer, since your clear is 2:1, it doesn’t have a separate reducer.
This clear is a 2K clear. 2K just means 2 component (a product that requires an activator/hardener/catalyst).
the paint, reducer (medium) and activator (medium) from the same company
regards the dull it happened when it was applied to vehicle, it was clean when was mixeddo u have a lot of water in your air line?
I think I did have, I just re check my tank and had to drain it , but my water filter have failed, which I notice water dripping from inlet got another one,
regards the activator should I get Fast as oppose Medium, the temps are over 75 F[quote=”trader1990″ post=26405]I think I did have, I just re check my tank and had to drain it , but my water filter have failed, which I notice water dripping from inlet got another one,
regards the activator should I get Fast as oppose Medium, the temps are over 75 F[/quote]I would suggest getting one of those plastic filters that screws onto the bottom of the paint gun. Could help a lot there.
[img]http://www.por15.com/images/FILT_DRYAIR_300.jpg[/img]
As for the activator, the medium should be fine.
HI Ben
this is the filter I got, I will remove the other one I had setup ..
thanks for tip I will report my work thank you for all the help guys..Keeping the compressor cool (and well drained) will help with the water. Having a really good filter is crucial.
Those orange filters for the gun are ok, but more or less just a band-aid, but they can definately save your ass.
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