Oppinions on plan of attack for a newb
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Well I’m pretty much a newb here to the forum and to painting in general. Ive trolled this and several other forums for a few month’s to formulate what I think would be a faily solid plan of attack but before starting would like some oppinions and advice from some of the pro’s and joe’s out there.
First off I think I should list the equipment im using as leaving that out could raise tons of questions and make providing sound avdice nearly impossible.
First off the Air Compressor.
Cambell and Hausfeld 5.0 HP 230 V Single Phase 80 Gallon running 16 SCFM @ 90 PSI.
This is hard wired and plumbed with a slight elevation increase leading back to the unit its self. Plumbed with 30 ft of hardline with 2 water drops at 10 and 20 FT. There is a regulator/water trap at the unit and another water trap at the 30ft air drop.The booth is a home construct using PVC pipeing for the frame, 1.3 painters plastic for the body. 2 box fans with furnace filters running on a low setting for intake, 1 box fan with furnace filter for exhaust.
The environment is pressure washed a few hours before I assemble the booth to keep possible incoming contamination down to a minimum.
I wear a disposable painters suit to minimize possible painter introduction of contaminats.
I have a few guns Ill be painting with each of them set up with a regulator and disposable water trap/filter.
The first one I have is a Harbor Freight Pro series (looks like the knock off of a Devilbiss starting line) with a 1.8 tip for laying down primer.
For BC/CC I have a Devilbiss Finishline 3 with a 1.3 tip and cap.
I also have the Harbor Freight Touch up gun that came equipped with a 1.0 tip which I do not know if I will be using.
Now onto the materials.
Im using nothing but House of Kolor products including the following:
KD2000 Direct to metal primer/surfacer
KS211 KO-Seal 2 Primer/Sealer in black
PBC-43 Black pearl Base Coat
SG-100 Intercoat clear
SG-150 Pearl and Flake Carrier
UC-35 Polyurethane Enamel Clear
DP-40 Graphite Dry Pearl Concentrate
KU-150 Catalyst
RU-300 ReducerFor plastic filler im using Evercoat Rage extreme and for spot putty im using evercoat glazing putty.
For Block sanding I have multiple Durablock long, medium, short, Flexible, rigid blocks and using 3M cut to length sand paper rolls.
Now onto the project
2010 Harley Davidson fatboy
Stock front fender stripped to bare metal
3 inch stretch tank bare metal
1 off custom steel rear fender bare metalThe paint job when finished and if done carefully and properly will be a black pearl with a VERY subtle graphite pearl ghost flame that should not be noticeable unless you are right next to the bike with good lighting.
My plan of attack is as follows:
hit the surface with 80 grit on my DA sander, Degrease and dewax, metal prep and then laydown 2 coats of the KD2000 primer.
Apply a coat of the plastic filler and ruff block in with 80 grit, Apply another 2 coats of KD2000 and a guide coat. Start another round of blocking with 150 to level and smooth the surface, Spot fill, block and spot prime any areas needing extra attention. If the surface turns out to be straight with no need of further spotting then I will apply one more coat of the KD2000 and progresively sand upto 600 wet.
At this stage I would apply 2 coats of the KS211 sealer and allow proper flash/cure time which would be roughly 30 mins to an hour depending on weather conditions.
Apply 3 coats of PBC-43 black pearl base following all tech sheet instructions for overlap, and flash times between coats.
Apply 3 coats of SG 100 intercoat clear and allow to flash/cure
Mask off my flame design and then spray my mix of dry pearl with the SG150 pearl and flake carrier to the effect I desire.
Apply 3 coats of UC-35 Clear, Allow to dry for 24 hrs, scuff and then apply 2 flow coats with an extra 10% reduction.
Allow to cure for 24-48 hrs then color sand and polish using 3M products to a show quality shine.
This is the game plan I have formulated but obviously being a begginer to painting There may be things I have mixed up or missing completely.
Im sorry for the book as a first post but I felt that if I wanted the best advice and information I needed to provide the most information currently possible.
Thank you in advance for taking the time to read this long post and share any observations, oppinions, advice that you all might have.
not sure if the kd2000 is an epoxy or a urethane primer. if it is a DTM urethane you really dont want to be doing your filler work over it. better off doing the filler on bare metal. you should use a fiberglass reinforced filler over any welded area’s. sand with 80 then put the rage on top. final sanding of the filler should be with 180. 80 is too course to prime over unless you are using a polyester primer.
after the filler work then put on 3 coats of primer. block with 180 and reprime.
from there out your plan sounds good. the sg100 stays a little soft, i would prefer to use the uc35 over the base, sand it then tape out your flames but if you want to use the sg100 you will be ok. uc35 get pretty hard and buffed like a rock the last time i used it (that was 8 years ago) ufc35 works better for the final coats in my opinion
good luckThanks for the reply Ding, Maybe this will help a bit,
Taken direct from the HoK product website
“DIRECT TO METAL PRIMERS & ACTIVATORS (KD2000 & KDA2000 SERIES)
KD2000 Direct to Metal Primer has been formulated with a hybrid of epoxy and acrylic polymers, which provide excellent adhesion, good corrosion resistance, productive dry times, and ease of sanding. These primers emit very low amount of Volatile Organic Chemicals (VOCs), Hazardous Air Polluting Solvents (HAPS), and contain no isocyanates. KD2000 may be applied to properly cleaned and sanded aluminum, steel, galvanized steel, sand blasted steel, fiberglass and SMC. Can be reduced up to 10% with RU reducer. Mix 4 parts KD2000 to 1 part KDA2000 to 1 part RU Series Reducer (for 2.1 VOC, RU300 must be used)”KD2000 is the Primer and KDA2000 is the activator.
For further reference here is the actual tech sheet,
[url=http://www.houseofkolor.com/PDF/TechData/English/KD2000.pdf]KD2000 Product Tech Sheet[/url]
i would do my filler on bare metal
the kd2000 isn’t a true epoxy. you dont want to do your filler work over it. its one of those epoxy/urethane hybrid filling primers. its great to do your filler work over epoxy but it needs to be a true epoxy primer. the kd2000 and other primers like them are made for production shops and speed bacause its a 1 shot deal. its not the best way to go. if thats what you have it ok just do your filler work on the bare metal then the kd over. also another thing, never put 3 coats of sg100 on. its not made for any kind of build. that product has serious problems. in the heat it will get so soft you can have delamination problems. if you have to use sg100 then limit it to 1 overreduced coat and be sure to put a shot of clearcoat activator in it. i stopped using that crap years ago. find another brand. spi makes a real good one that dries harder, faster and wont leave tape lines. almost every other paint company has them too.
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