Orientation coat substitution
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Hi, the importer of the paint mfg I had choose does not import the orientation coat.. So I am a bit stuck here..
Is there any way to make orientation coat with clear coat??
Like over reducing it, allow it to flash a little bit than spray metallics over it for blending?
Could you share some recipes?Also do you always apply orientation coat, even when you do not blend, i.e. paint whole panel.. in order to give a more smooth wet on wet finish..?
I think there may be some confusion here. An orientation coat is used on metallic and pearl colours as the final colour coat to even out the metallics (prevent mottling and striping). Each paint is slightly different in its procedures. It has many names ( orientation, drop, finesse etc). It is a procedure, not a product. Typically you spray your last coat of colour with reduced pressure and/or increased gun distance. It is applied a little lighter than your coverage coats, and over everywhere you based. If you blended the base, this will extend just a few inches beyond that to help out the blend.
I think the product you are referring to is basecoat blender. It is not a requirement for a blend, but can help in some circumstances. Depending on the product, it may be used as a wet bed before you apply any base, or may be used in your last coat of base ( ie: the orientation coat on metallic/pearl colours), or in some cases sprayed over top of your blend. Check with your paint manufacturer to see how they want it done.
As mentioned, it isn’t always necessary. Some people never use it at all. Are you using a water or solvent base? What sort of a colour are you spraying?
I am using solvent base base coat.
The code is LS7N – Seat/Audi/VW Silver metallic. DuPont – GRIS ARTICO-METI was asking for basecoat blender.. Jimmo referred it as orientation coat..
in this video..
The first coat that he puts on..—
When I painted my rear bumper, I did what you had suggested as orientation coat.. It somehow got a bit dusty finish.. so I was maybe too much off spraying..All in all it came out nice with the clear coat..
Although this metallic color for me is kinda problematic.. If I put it almost wet.. it mottles and the prisms get clustered..
So do I spray it way too wet? Should I up the pressure or reduce it, should I add a inch or two from the panel when spraying?Jimmo:
Use an Orientation Coat – this will fill in the scratches on the surface and give your high metallic colors a better area to land on. This will help keep your base landing better and blending easier.
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The proper term for the technique he is doing is called a “wet bed blend”, orientation coat is exactly what Ben was refering too which is lowering your pressure increasing your distance to even out metallics and pearls also known as a drop coat.Not all paint systems require it.
Great..
So.. Since I can’t get wet bed blend coat.. is there any substitute?
In regards to spraying too wet, the answer is probably yes.
Wet coats allow the metallics to float around and move where they want (mottling). Dry coats put the metallic where the gun sprays them. They can’t move. But, dry coats also create gritty base that is hard to clear over and gives poor adhesion. Base is generally sprayed in the middle with medium to medium wet coats. Then the orientation coat is backed up a little from there. If your coverage coats are super wet and mottly, an orientation coat may not be enough to fix it.
Keep in mind with Jimmos video that not all base coats are sprayed the same. The proper method for DuPont Cromax would screw up almost any other base coat…
Check with your paint supplier for the system that you are using,they should have something.Basically its just clear base coat,nothing special.You can use clear that is ready to spray and further reduce it by 100%-150% then apply one thin coat.I am hesitant to suggest it to someone with little experience as it could cause you more trouble.If you do good prep work,use a slow reducer,good spray technique,you really don’t need a wet bed.
Ok.. I will try and practice for this particular color..
I will try to spray it medium.. them if any mottling occurs I will do an orientation coat..For the blending in the quarter panel and the front fender I might use the method Jayson M had suggested with the clear, because the paint supplier does not carry the clear base anymore.. and I have to wait around 25 days to get it…
Anyway.. first thing first.. As soon as i get my Iwata.. I will test it on old panels with the same color.. just not tinted.. Because my color has been made to match and don’t want to waste it 🙂
Regarding the gritty texture.. will an orientation coat produce it if I spray it on regular pressure??
I usually spray @ 24-27psi.
You are getting a gritty dusty surface by spraying too dry and the use of too fast of a reducer.It is difficult to do a blend and maintain metallic control with a fast reducer due to the paint drying in the air and hitting the surface felling like sand paper or a cats tounge.This is where skill comes into play and its very difficult to “teach” yourself how to do it.Once again I would stay away form the reduced clear for a wetbed until you have more experience or you will end up with runs if not done properly :blink:
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