pesky dust nibs
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I have been chasing after the OUT OF THE GUN perfect finish for many years. I started using this product in May of 2012 and I am thrilled with the results. Every pro shop should have one. I don’t work for these people or receive any benifit. I’m just telling you it works. If you don’t have one, at least start blowing of as you tack with very low air pressure. 25 psi. I put a seperate regulator in my booth so I don’t have to run my production regulator up and down. http://www.ionixtechnologies.com/
I just prep and tape the vehicle properly. No issues here
I can tell you. It’s not one thing that keep it clean it is many, wearing non woven suits. My best jobs are when the car is off the ground on jack stands. Not sure if it better grounding, but they are always the cleanest. This is just another tool in the fight against the NIBS!
I’m really interested in this. So you use this to tack the car off after every coat of paint/ clear coat? Or do you tack and use this at the same time? Or do you just use it one time right after masking?
Which one did you end up buying? I see they have 3 different levels.A clean car, a clean booth, a clean painter equals a clean job.
Ding, I use Nason base for all over jobs. I use the Chromabase for the silver, gold, and hard to match/blend colours. Cost is the reason I don’t use Chomabase for everything. I just bought my first gal of 2k sealer but I have not used it yet. Back on the subject of dust nibs… Today I purchased an ANTISTATIC air hose that claims to help metallic flakes lay better. I’m hoping it will reduce the electric charge that puts dust specks in my paint! My biggest problem is DUST particles landing on my paint. I was painting bonnets with them vertical, like when your painting the side of the vehicle. That helped. I still use my Ionex device, but from what I understand when you start spraying…you are recharging the surface again.. I hate buffing… Bill
Today I received this anti static air line. It has a copper wire running inside with the air. http://www.hutchinsmfg.com/View-Product.aspx?group_id=67121 Then I used a wire to ground it to the steel gas line where I have another wire with a clamp to ground the car in the booth. Maybe this will help too.
The last pic is the wire I will ground to the vehicle chassis, I need a good clamp.
Im no electrician, but grounding to a gas line might not be the best idea. Just my thoughts.
[quote=”nick1″ post=28094]Im no electrician, but grounding to a gas line might not be the best idea. Just my thoughts.[/quote] All my other lines are plastic… I know that gas line is ground. As long as the gas stays inside the pipe … I really don’t expect it be sparking. It just seems scary.. B
its perfectly fine, a “ground” has no electrical charge
[quote=”nick1″ post=28094]Im no electrician, but grounding to a gas line might not be the best idea. Just my thoughts.[/quote]
I’m no electrician either, but my wife is in the electrical testing and safety business
As long as the other end of that steel pipe is grounded (which bill says it is) then it’s all good 🙂
Over here in the UK all of our houses HAVE to be grounded to incoming gas and water lines BY LAW. Because of this I spent days crawling around under my house running 10mm² cable to connect everything together 😆
Both of the orange wires are connected to the same gas line. I ran a 2 inch conduit from my center pit to the air supply corner of the booth. I was going to put in an air powered lift to raise the cars up, but that kinda went by without happening. I guess I’ll have to remove the plastic prefilter at the spray gun, or find a metal one. I want the gun and car to be fully grounded.
I had an OLD friend from the OLD SChool. He said “back in the day when he painted high end” They would tape the car and shoot all the seams, like between the fenders, doors and quarters. Then they would wipe off the overspray .. recclean and then paint the entire car. He said it reduced the NIBS.. Seems like a lot of work and wiping to me. I’m not a fan of wiping my cars in the booth because I believe it builds static. Any thoughts?
I just painted a Nissan that came out very clean, so I’m looking back at what I did. I watersanded and washed car with hot water and GAIN. Let it dry in the sun, I taped it in the shop and hand blew it before I drove to booth where the floor was wet. I wiped it down with 91% alcahol. Then I blew it with low pressure as I tacked using my IONIX static eliminator with the fans on. Then I did something a little different. I let it sit for 30 mins while I went to get the paint. I returned and tacked it one more time. My booth temp was 77 degrees and I used Chromabase with slow reducer. Maybe the 30 mins I was gone let any specks in the air float to the floor and car surface? It sure came out extreemly clean. Your results may vary! Bill :weights
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