ppg defleet essential single stage polyurethane
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- This topic has 7 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 12 years, 11 months ago by Barry Overby.
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- October 30, 2011 at 2:33 pm #33903
Any body use defleet essential? I really love the color (black), love the way it lays down, having a hard time getting done. First of all, not the greatest paint boothe, so there are always imperfections. Lines semi clean via filter near gun and good plumbing. I paint motorcycle plastics so I prefer my 1.0 mm touch up gun for painting. I have a 1.4 and a 1.7 I use at times for primers mainly.
My main problem is cut and buff. I have become good with my gun, and I can spray about as thick of a coat possible without a run and got the paint to lay down really nice. I just always end up with some dimples and dust particles that need to be sanded down. My supplier sais sais dont sand it at all but if you do , do it quick because after a week it will be imposible because it gets so hard. Others say dont touch it (wetsand nor buff) until a few weeks. Im really lucky if I can get the paint hard enough after 3 weeks! I follow all the text sheet rules accept I put on a mist coat, 2 light coats, then a nice heavy one. I give extra flash time, I mix correctly, heat is right, it starts to shell up nice,,, the next day or two I sand, and it seems like it goes soft and never gets hard.
If I spray it on any lighter, it does get hard, but I burn through by the time I get the imperfections out. Im also confused, seems like softer paint is easy to sand, but harder to buff and get light scrathes out. I start with 1000 until level, then 1500 then 2000, 2500, 3000 then buff. Sometimes it turns to a mirror 2nd buff. (Im using mequires ultimate compound) Some times allthough it sanded like a dream, I can buff all day and the scratches allthough are tiny never come out. I heat them up to 140 for a few hours because at this point I can still sink my fingernail into it its so soft but I cant buff the scratches out no matter what I do.
I strip back down to my primer (pcl polyester primer surfacer) <--- which I LOVE LOVE LOVE!!! (gets super hard everytime, so easy to sand etc) Then I repaint trying to lay it thinner so it will harden. Then I sand and burn through, then strip, paint, sand, too soft, strip spray sand... :exci somebody please just :huntI used Delfleet Evolution and Essential for a little while. It is a good quality Polyurethane intended for fleet work/larger jobs. It is intended to be very slow for the large jobs. If you are just painting motorcycle parts in a non-bake situation than you are kinda using the wrong product. If you like PPG you may want to switch to the Concept single stage. It is a heck of a lot faster, looks just as good and is much easier to buff after.
If you are dedicated to the Delfleet, then buy some fast activator. Fast activator is needed on just about anything that is smaller than a complete, especially if you aren’t baking it. I wouldn’t buff it at all, it is very difficult, especially on black, but with the right products and patience it can be done.
One other note, you said you are using polyester primer. You should be using a urethane primer surfacer over top of this or at least a urethane or epoxy sealer. It is not usually a great idea to be painting over top of polyester primer.
I will say again, though, consider trying a different product if you are just doing small parts. I can guarantee that you will like the Concepts single stage a lot.
October 31, 2011 at 2:14 am #33933Thanks for that info. I think im gona give the concept a try after this bike. I know its meant for fleets, but for 130 for a gallon kit
its hard to switch because the few peaces I finaly finished are indeed awsome.
If I went base coat clear coat, and had some inperfections in the base, could I sand the base all the way to 3000grit and clear it or would the sand scratches show under the clear?[quote=”mikevanunen” post=23368]Thanks for that info. I think im gona give the concept a try after this bike. I know its meant for fleets, but for 130 for a gallon kit
its hard to switch because the few peaces I finaly finished are indeed awsome.
If I went base coat clear coat, and had some inperfections in the base, could I sand the base all the way to 3000grit and clear it or would the sand scratches show under the clear?[/quote]if you sand the base, you will need to rebase over it before clearing.
The essential is reasonably priced, but so is the Concept. I am sure you will enjoy the concept.
October 31, 2011 at 4:54 am #33936One more vote for concept VS essential,essential is not really user friendly and very slow like Ben said.
October 31, 2011 at 1:35 pm #33937Thanks…. this info has lead me to analyze the activaor. It is slow activator and it has cooled down a bit. I baked a small peace for 45 minutes at 140 deg. Now it feels like steel. Now I see why it is considered un buffable :dnc thanbks guys
November 19, 2011 at 11:13 am #34290No conncept in ca that I could find,,, even though they seem to make a lo voc version nobody has it. The omni is what they want to seel me an its 240 bucks a gallon compared to essintial that is quite a bit more and I dont know if it will polish any easier
November 19, 2011 at 6:47 pm #34293Over here on the east coast essential is quite a bit cheaper than omni. Essential is fleet paint, very tough stuff, much more difficult to buff than omni.
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