Qestions about polishing systems
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Just wondering what all you guys are using for a polishing system. Im not getting the results I want with 3M. I have been looking at Meguiars but not sure what is what with their system or if its even any good? Any input would be great!
Thanksjust used some of the mequired 105 compound and 205 polish this weekend. worked real nice
Han will be on later to go ever polishing in detail… no pun intended :lol1 :lol1 :lol1What exactly are your steps?
Detailed information will help. Regardless of polishing system/brands, you
can achieve good/great results.[quote]just used some of the mequired 105 compound and 205 polish this weekend. worked real nice
Han will be on later to go ever polishing in detail… no pun intended [/quote]And, i’ll somehow manage to get SPI into it all.
I got tired of dealing with the expensive 3m stuff too… was costing too much, and I wasn’t getting the cutting speed I wanted/needed.
I switched over the Meguires Mirror Glaze line.
I like their 85 and 105 for heavy/fast cuts.
I’ve been meaning to get some 205 polish too.As of right now I’m still using up my 3m Glazes and polishes after the Megures #85.
And best of all for a gallon of the meguires stuff, it costs about the same as a quart of the 3m compounds.
Think a gallon of the Meguires 85 Diamond Cut. Was like $48 considering I was paying like 39 for a quart of ultra cut.
And the stuff doesn’t smell bad either. 😉
I’m no pro with Detail work like Han though. I personally hate doing the stuff. :S
Well here is a quick run down. I Use SW clear, use 3m 1500 da dry to nib and cut any peel or dieback or what ever the case may be. Then I follow up with 3000 trizact. Then use 3m 06085 compound with a white foam pad. Then go to a black pad and use the machine polish, forget the PN. Finally, use ultrafina if needed. My problem is the car will look great until it gets back from clean up and I can still see some hazyness and da swirls that I didnt see before. Also I just think that 3m is messy, it just flings dry compound all over. everything will be covered in compuond dust. You almost need to wash the car between compund and machine glaze.
I use only Presta Ultra Polish. I can use it for erase P1500 grit, blend and polish with that. I use with green foam pad and wool pad too.
[b]Underpaid Painter wrote:[/b]
[quote]Well here is a quick run down. I Use SW clear, use 3m 1500 da dry to nib and cut any peel or dieback or what ever the case may be. Then I follow up with 3000 trizact. Then use 3m 06085 compound with a white foam pad. Then go to a black pad and use the machine polish, forget the PN. Finally, use ultrafina if needed. My problem is the car will look great until it gets back from clean up and I can still see some hazyness and da swirls that I didn’t see before. Also I just think that 3m is messy, it just flings dry compound all over. everything will be covered in compound dust. You almost need to wash the car between compound and machine glaze.[/quote]That is what I usually do and I often have the same issue (especially on blacks). It seems like the machine glaze almost coats and fills the problems but washes off afterward. With the machine glaze freshly applied it always looks great.
I found that using the 1500 and trizac 3000 is kind of a double edged sword. It is fast, but it picks up everything and leaves swirl marks that are a :cens to get rid of.
If I can, I prefer to wet sand, particularly on black vehicles and horizontal surfaces. Some of the older products are better like the Perfect It II, III and to some extent the 3000. The new stuff doesn’t float my boat and tends to be flingy and hard to clean up.
Earlier this year I tried [url=http://www.farecla.com/]farecla[/url] Their product is cheaper than 3M, cuts well without leaving swirl marks, is super efficient (a little goes a long way) and the little bit of splatter cleans up ridiculously easily. The product I used was the G6. Cuts 1500 grit like nothing and leaves a finish that doesn’t need any final glazes or polishes. As far as I am concerned this is by far hands down the best I have ever used 😉
Farecla is very good polish system but the g6 doesn’t work worth a FUK on scratch resistant clears like sikkens superior 250.They do have a new polish out for these rock hard clears but I haven’t tried them yet except the one by 3m.
[quote]Well here is a quick run down. I Use SW clear, use 3m 1500 da dry to nib and cut any peel or dieback or what ever the case may be. Then I follow up with 3000 trizact. Then use 3m 06085 compound with a white foam pad. Then go to a black pad and use the machine polish, forget the PN. Finally, use ultrafina if needed. My problem is the car will look great until it gets back from clean up and I can still see some hazyness and da swirls that I didn’t see before. Also I just think that 3m is messy, it just flings dry compound all over. everything will be covered in compound dust.[b] You almost need to wash the car between compound and machine glaze[/b].[/quote]
Not almost. You MUST clean.
OK, im pretty sure what the problem is…basically, you’re not checking your work proir
to moving to the next steps. Yes, you need to clean after each step. Use a 50/50 mixture
of isopropyl alcohol and water in a spray bottle; after compounding, spray and wipe the
area and you’ll see what you’ve missed. Compounds and polishes do have fillers of sorts
in them (kinda like a wax).Ditch the foam cutting pad and use a good wool pad. It’s MUCH faster.
my guess is that your clear isn’t dry enough.
[b]Jayson M wrote:[/b]
[quote]Farecla is very good polish system but the g6 doesn’t work worth a FUK on scratch resistant clears like sikkens superior 250.They do have a new polish out for these rock hard clears but I haven’t tried them yet except the one by 3m.[/quote]True story!!! Superior buffs like a concrete floor.
I have used the G3 and Total by Farecla. I loved both but couldn’t get the G3 to work with that clear. Never heard of G6.
X2 on the wool pad!
i take it back..i’m Absolutely sure. 😉
[b]lild wrote:[/b]
[quote]my guess is that your clear isn’t dry enough.[/quote]You are probably right! It seems that I have this problem more when I buff cars that have not had a full bake and the car needs to go.
[b]Han wrote:[/b]
[quote][quote]Well here is a quick run down. I Use SW clear, use 3m 1500 da dry to nib and cut any peel or dieback or what ever the case may be. Then I follow up with 3000 trizact. Then use 3m 06085 compound with a white foam pad. Then go to a black pad and use the machine polish, forget the PN. Finally, use ultrafina if needed. My problem is the car will look great until it gets back from clean up and I can still see some hazyness and da swirls that I didn’t see before. Also I just think that 3m is messy, it just flings dry compound all over. everything will be covered in compound dust.[b] You almost need to wash the car between compound and machine glaze[/b].[/quote]Not almost. You MUST clean.
OK, im pretty sure what the problem is…basically, you’re not checking your work proir
to moving to the next steps. Yes, you need to clean after each step. Use a 50/50 mixture
of isopropyl alcohol and water in a spray bottle; after compounding, spray and wipe the
area and you’ll see what you’ve missed. Compounds and polishes do have fillers of sorts
in them (kinda like a wax).Ditch the foam cutting pad and use a good wool pad. It’s MUCH faster.[/quote]
Ok I will try the 50/50 mix. What I meant about washing the car between compound and polish was to get rid of all the dust from the compound. I do have a wool pad that I use from time to time and I still get the same results as the foam.
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