Raw Plastic Refinishing
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So how do you guys go about painting raw plastic bumpers? I use PPG nano adhesion kit: the sponge, wipe and adhesion promoter but its costing me about 40 per bumper which is kind of ridiculous being that i still apply flexible primer, color and clear. i read in Nex’s post about using Bulldog adhesion promoter but i had poor luck with it before. Any new ideas or products to hear about?
Sikkens and Lesonal have a special reducer for their sealer that is a adhesion promoter ans reducer in one. Basically for a raw cover or part I scuff with a gold scothch brite and a paste called Plastic Fix, rinse, wipe down with waterborne W&G remover, tack and seal.
You can use it on metal and primed plastic parts also so no need to mix two rounds of sealer. it also can go over unsanded e-coat.
just get some of ppg’s 801 plastic adhesion promoter and spray that on instead.
I stopped using bulldog after i got a can that was bad. it would spray all grittyi had the same problem with bulldog in the can. so i buy it in gallon and use it in the gun, and add some to base. but bulldog won’t work with ppg’s primers or sealers. i didn’t find out untill the sealer blistered on me. i do use ppg’s raw plastic prep system now. we bill insurance comps. for it. before they came out with it. at the training center, they told us to use the dx103 multiprep, wipe the bumper, dry, then soak a scotch brite pad in it and scuff the cover, rinse with warm water mixed with tide, dry off, and wipe in one direction with the dx again, then finish off with the 801 plastic adhesion. it worked pretty well.
The shop I am at now uses the PPG sponges…
But before here I usually took a gray or gold scotch brite pad with plastic prep paste (whatever brand floats your boat) and abraded/cleaned it as well as I could, particularly in the cracks. I then would use the paint manufacturers products.
With DuPont, I would blow the bumper dry, then wipe it with the plas-stick cleaner (2319s or 2320s) to aid in adhesion and reduce static. Then tack, apply the Plas-stick adhesion promoter (2330s), 1 coat of sealer then topcoat.
With PPG I would dry the bumper, use the Global plastic cleaner (D846), tack, apply the Global adhesion promoter (D820) then apply 1-2 coats of flexible primer/sealer (which they no longer sell). Then topcoat.
Sherwin Williams is basically the same. This is the process I use, it has been very successful for me. I prefer the wet on wet process as opposed to applying a primer surfacer since I only want to prep it once. With that said, I am very picky about accepting new raw plastic bumpers/parts.
[b]Ben wrote:[/b]
[quote]The shop I am at now uses the PPG sponges…But before here I usually took a gray or gold scotch brite pad with plastic prep paste (whatever brand floats your boat) and abraded/cleaned it as well as I could, particularly in the cracks. I then would use the paint manufacturers products.
With DuPont, I would blow the bumper dry, then wipe it with the plas-stick cleaner (2319s or 2320s) to aid in adhesion and reduce static. Then tack, apply the Plas-stick adhesion promoter (2330s), 1 coat of sealer then topcoat.
With PPG I would dry the bumper, use the Global plastic cleaner (D846), tack, apply the Global adhesion promoter (D820) then apply 1-2 coats of flexible primer/sealer (which they no longer sell). Then topcoat.
Sherwin Williams is basically the same. This is the process I use, it has been very successful for me. I prefer the wet on wet process as opposed to applying a primer surfacer since I only want to prep it once. With that said, I am very picky about accepting new raw plastic bumpers/parts.[/quote]
i like the wet on wet process too. i’ve found that on some you can skip the sealer and go right to it. again ppg’s sponge thing. expect toy. covers. i have to seal. the bigest thing with new covers, they always have some damage to fix. i hate new raw bumpers.i remember about 10 yrs ago. when comps. began to send them raw, and how it was a very troublesome thing to get paint to stick to them. you had know what kind of plastic it was, how to test it. so on and so on.
you should always seal bumper covers. especially raw. you need a good foundation to lay that base on and adhesion promoter just isnt it.
[b]ding wrote:[/b]
[quote]you should always seal bumper covers. especially raw. you need a good foundation to lay that base on and adhesion promoter just isnt it.[/quote]
i completly agree with you. you should always seal.
but i have done plenty of them to prove you wrong.Wow, i thought painting raw plastic bumper covers was pretty standard.
Issues with Bull Dog?? And Adhesion promoter is it??What you all smoking? Please, pass the cush this way.
Some of you will remember:
http://spi.forumup.org/about2496-spi.html
Paint is still on there. After 100’s of covers, i should have noticed
issues with this method by now. There aren’t any to mention.[b]lild wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]ding wrote:[/b]
[quote]you should always seal bumper covers. especially raw. you need a good foundation to lay that base on and adhesion promoter just isnt it.[/quote]
i completly agree with you. you should always seal.
but i have done plenty of them to prove you wrong.[/quote]Indeed sealer should be used as a layer of “cushion” to protect the paint from damage such as rock chips.
However, I have done repairs w/o sealer, just applying base over the adhesion promoter. Seems to work ok. My policy is you get what you pay for
I wouldnt base over a raw bumper that just had adhesion promoter on it….ever.
why not just base over sanded e-coat also.
show me a tech sheet from a major paint manufacturer that says just to base over adhesion promoter. Bulldog may say it’s ok but bulldog isn’t warrantying my paint either.
At least I know when it’s done the proper way it will never come back to bite me in the ass
:pcorn:100’s of raw covers with a 99% success rate is good enough for me.
So go ahead and adpro, prime, seal, prime, seal and do two back flips
before basing to get your warranty on. 😉[b]ding wrote:[/b]
[quote]I wouldnt base over a raw bumper that just had adhesion promoter on it….ever.
why not just base over sanded e-coat also.
show me a tech sheet from a major paint manufacturer that says just to base over adhesion promoter. Bulldog may say it’s ok but bulldog isn’t warrantying my paint either.
At least I know when it’s done the proper way it will never come back to bite me in the ***
:pcorn:[/quote] i thought bulldog has a gaurntee on the lable.
plus i do base over e-coat. it’s primer sand it well and base will stick.
here’s what you ask for.
https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProductCatalog/ViewProduct.aspx?ProductID=beaa9548-e3a5-4232-8422-2ccad827489a
after opeing the link, click on english, then open. after it opens, scroll all the way down. to the chart system.[b]ding wrote:[/b]
[quote]I wouldnt base over a raw bumper that just had adhesion promoter on it….ever.
why not just base over sanded e-coat also.
show me a tech sheet from a major paint manufacturer that says just to base over adhesion promoter. Bulldog may say it’s ok but bulldog isn’t warrantying my paint either.
At least I know when it’s done the proper way it will never come back to bite me in the ***
:pcorn:[/quote]X2! How much time is it really saving you to skip the sealer???
15 to 20 mins..
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